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Aleksandra Zielińska

Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, Poland

e-mail: zielinska-aleksandra@wp.pl

Natural plant excipients for the production of

vitamin A1 loaded nanostructured lipid carriers

(NLC)

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Nowadays, customers are purchasing their cosmetic products very consciously. Especially they prefer cosmetics made of pure natural ingredients.

This presents a challenge for the development, because organic lipids and oils have a high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids, which can turn rancid by oxidative degradation.

To circumvent this problem, lipids and oils with native antioxidants for self protection against oxidative degradation are increasingly available on the market.

If the use of those compounds can offer a real alternative with equally stable products was investigated by comparing a pre-existing vitamin A1 NLC formulation with semi-synthetic ingredients to a newly developed formulation where all semi-synthetic ingredients were replaced by organic products from plants.

Introduction

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Rotor stator dispersion (Ultra-Turrax T25, Jahnke und Kunkel, Germany) was combined with high pressure homogenization (Micron LAB 40, APV, Germany) to produce two formulations of vitamin A1 loaded NLC suspensions: I - contained solid lipid and semi-synthetic oil

(Miglyol) II - contained solid lipid and natural oil

(Meadowfoam seed oil).

Materials

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light microscopy (Leitz Wetzlar, Germany) for the detection of potentially large particles or agglomerations.

photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS, Nano ZS, Malvern Instruments, UK) – analyse the mean particle size (z-average) and polydispersity index (PI) of both formulations-loaded NLC

laser diffraction (LD, static light scattering) was performed by using a Mastersizer 2000 (Malvern Instruments, UK).

zeta potential of produced vitamin A1-loaded NLC for both oils was detected in conductivity adjusted water (50 µS/cm) and original dispersion medium by using again the Zetasizer Nano ZS (Malvern Instruments, UK)

high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) – was used to assess the chemical stability

Methods

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A natural vitamin A1 loaded NLC formulation was successfully developed with same physical and chemical stability as the semi-synthetic formulation. This natural formulation follows the latest trend of “green cosmetics” and has also a higher added value.

Conclusion