South Karelia

8/4/2019 South Karelia

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OUTLOOK / TRAVEL

62 / AIRBALTIC.COM

South KareliaA quiet lie by the lake


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BALTIC OUTLOOK / AUGUST 2011 / 63

Some time ater Swedens Queen Christina ounded Lappeenranta

on Lake Saimaa Finlands largest lake in 1649, the city came

to be known as wild mans shore, based on the savage gure

in Lappeenrantas coat o arms. Today, Lappeenranta has several

nicknames Linden City, Cavalry City, Gateway to Lake Saimaa,

and Gateway to the East each with its own history. To those who

dont speak Finnish, Lappeenranta might sound more like thename o a airy tale or imaginary gure, rather than that o a city.

In reality, the citys melodic name describes its location right on

the shores o Lake Saimaa. It is precisely this geographic location in

South Karelia that sets the citys rhythm and denes its eatures, as

has been the case since its very oundation. Over the past decades,

Lappeenranta has combined orces with the neighbouring city o

Imatra to turn ideas into reality. From all appearances, it seems that

no one is just a spectator here.

I arrive in Lappeenranta on a June evening, when the nights are

so short that it never gets completely dark. I am greeted at the

airport by Suvi Ahola, who works as a marketing communications

manager or goSaimaa and who also nds the time to volunteer

at Junior Chamber International. She has taken care to ensure that

my rst visit to South Karelia will be a successul one. Now the

adventures can begin!

Roots of tourismEarly the ollowing morning, while having breakast with Suvi

and Markku Mkel, the sales manager o the Sokos Hotel Lappee,

I discover a tasty regional dish Karelian pie (Karjalanpiirakka) a

roll made rom rye our and lled with rice or mashed potatoes.

It reminds me o the Latvian sklandu rausis, which is lled with

carrots. Ater a lling breakast, Suvi and I head to the Imatra region.

The city o Imatra is about 30 km rom Lappeenranta, and both

urban centres are cooperating to orm a region that is riendly totourists and investors alike. This can be seen along the way the

increased ow o trac has led to the widening o the road, which

is lined on one side by the railway. The new Allegro high-speed

train connects Lappeenranta with St. Petersburg, Russia in just an

hour-and-a-hal.

Our rst stop is Saimaa Gardens (www.saimaagardens.com). The

quiet, 300-hectare lakeside territory has now become a huge

construction site. In October o this year, the rst part o an

ambitious resort will be opened, the Holiday Club Saimaa. It will

highlight two o the regions main eatures holiday homes and

spas. Spending relaxing holidays in nature has become a Finnish

TEXT BYELINA RUKA

PHOTOS COURTESY Of GOSAIMAA, MIKKO NIKKINENAND BY ELINA RUKA


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mainstay. For those who dont own a holiday cabin, renting

is an acceptable option. Both Saimaa Gardens and Imatra Spa

(www.imatrankylpyla.) ofer several diferent kinds o short-term

and long-term rental homes.

Saimaa Gardens will ofer a spa and a golng green, as well as

boat and yacht trips. Restaurants and a concert venue are also

planned. As it turns out, the area has been catering to tourists or

quite a long time. Businessman Gusta Alm opened the rst hotel

and spa in the area in 1894, the Rauha Pensionaat r Turister. It

operated until 1912, when it was bought by the Russian doctor

Dimitri Gabrilovitsch, who turned it into a sanatorium that ofered

innumerable bath and bright light procedures, as well as special

diets and vegetarian meals. Among the guests were celebrities o

the day, including members o the Russian royal court.

Since then, the South Karelians have worked hard to ofer other

attractions alongside the rejuvenating spas. Saimaa Adventures(www.saimaa-adventures.), or example, provides ATV (all-terrain

vehicle) saaris. As we don the appropriate clothing and equipment,

Antti Harinen tells me about various summer and winter activities

that can be undertaken on water, dry land or in the air just

choose the one that captivates you the most. With our heads now

helmeted, Antti shows me how easy it is to drive an ATV and tells

me where were headed up and down hills, along narrow orest

trails and through the undergrowth. I soon come to understand

that I wont enjoy this ride very much i I have to stop at every turn,

bump and road block, so I hand the controls back to Antti and sit

behind him as a passenger. What a diference! I can look at the

Imatrankoski Rapids and Castle Hotel Valtionhotelli

Cafe Majurskan kahvila


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scenery and enjoy the wind, the jumps and the swaying rom side

to side. Antti just laughs, saying that he didnt even do any o the

tricks that he does when riding alone, but no matter my urge or

something exciting and a bit on the extreme side has been satised.

We drive to the centre o Imatra, where a beautiul castle comes into

view. It looks like it might once have been the home o a medieval

knight, but actually is an Art Nouveau building that houses a amous

hotel, the Rantasipi Imatran Valtionhotelli. Beore the hotel was built,Russian Empress Catherine II loved to visit this location during the

late 18th century. This launched the tourism industry in that region,

where the main attraction is the Imatrankoski Rapids. Every summer

evening (rom June 27 - August 14), starting at six oclock and

accompanied by music, the dam on the River Vuoksi is opened and

water powerully cascades down the clifs. You can quickly cross the

river by cable car to enjoy the view. As you watch the white oam

o the churning river oat downstream, a beautiul castle appears

through the trees. This Art Nouveau building, currently known as

Imatran Valtionhotelli, was a avourite o the Russian royal court.

Today, it operates as a hotel and is still a popular destination or

relaxing holidays, ofering an array o beautiul rooms to chooserom. Each room is diferent, but all are urnished according to

the Art Nouveau style and tradition. As is customary in this part o

Finland, the hotel also provides a wide selection o spa services.

Returning to Lappeenranta in the evening, we take an

excursion down the Saimaa Canal on the m/sCamilla riverboat

(www.karelialines.), enjoying the view along the waterways banks.

The canal connects Lake Saimaa with the Gul o Finland. Lunch and

Saimaa Gardens cottage

The harbor of Lappeenranta


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dinner cruises are available, as is a cruise down to Vyborg the only

way to get to Russia without a visa. The canal has a series o eight

locks along its 43-kilometre length. Every time a lock is entered, the

water level is either lowered or raised to the level o the next canal

section. This means that every so oten, the beautiul view o the

countryside is interrupted by that o stone walls. On our return to

Lappeenranta, we nd that evening has allen over the city. People

are enjoying the summer night over drinks at docked canal boats.

A light touchOur day in Lappeenranta begins with a morning stroll. On the

way rom the hotel to the Old City, we go through a park where,

shining through the birch branches, the morning sun illuminates

dew-covered paths. Kauppakatu (or K auppa Street) eatures several

houses constructed at the beginning o the 19th century. One o

them contains the Wolkof Museum, which presents the history o

the Russian Wolkof merchant amily, as well as Russian Orthodox

traditions. The home is lled with a large number o beautiul

household objects.

We pass a park unocially called the Kissing Park, due to itshistory as a place o romantic interludes. On the right, next to

Lappeenrantas 18th-century ortication wall, is a popular picnic

place with a view o the harbour and city. We walk through the

walls gates into the Old City. Typical wooden houses, which were

later ollowed by brick buildings, have been preserved within

the territory o the walls and are now home to museums and

restaurants. Not ar rom the gates, or example, lies the Cavalry

Museum. Lappeenranta was or a long time an important cavalry

city, and nowadays you can still spot the occasional costumed rider

dressed in historical garb.

The building on the opposite side o the street Majurskan talo

was at various times an ocers club, a hospital and an umbrella

actory. Today, it is home to several pleasant crat shops and a

wonderul ca Majurskan kahvila to while away the time. The

cas owner, Jaana Kuokka, has charmingly decorated its walls

with her grandmothers cross-stitch blankets, historical photos and

regional items. Every table, soa and chair is diferent. I liked the

veranda the most. Settling into its comortable seats and waiting

or my cake and sot drink (the baked goods give themselves away

rom a distance their heavenly aroma wats all the way out to the

ortication walls), I easted my eyes and determined that this place

is probably appreciated by both romantics and pragmatics alike.

Vases hold pink peonies, a samovar sits atop the windowsill, and the

whole little, idyllic world is reected in the glass o the tabletops.

South Kareliashistory and art museums lie on the same street,along with Finlands oldest Orthodox Church, which was completed

by Russian soldiers in 1785. Quiet and small, it is decorated in

accordance with that religions traditions.

Ater lunch at the Wanha Makasiinirestaurant (which used to be

a metal workshop, but now ofers reshly prepared ood, along

with bread baked specially or the restaurant and a selection o

rare wines), I cross the street, where I have arranged a meeting

with Mirka Kristiina Rahman. The smiling and bursting-with-energy

marketing manager or Lappeeranta Cityjoins me or a ride with

the new, eco-riendly e-bikes (www.salpasaarit.). Taking a turn

around the docks, we have to go up a small hill. This is where the


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electric bicycle redeems itsel with lightning speed its little motor

revs up, and keeping in pace with your pedalling rhythm, the bike

elegantly rolls uphill.

Not ar of is an area or the citys inhabitants to wash their rugs

o winter dust. Someone has brought a aithul dog along which,

lying on the ootbridge, watches his owner at work. The washed

rugs are hung to dry on specially made racks. A small group

o riends are enjoying the summer holiday rom school at the

citys beach no matter that the water hasnt warmed up yet.

The boys jump rom a high diving board, creating the perect

childhood idyll.

Later, we stop at another ca. Mirka advises me to try the local

specialty liquorice- and tar-avoured ice cream. In reply to my

raised eyebrows at that last avour, she explains that it is pine

tar, which is used not only industrially, but also in oodstufs and

cosmetics. Tar shampoo is a well-known product. You can also give

tar syrup a try and soon, even tar beer, which an enterprising local

company is in the process o making.

In the evening, Mirka takes me to the Linnoituksen Krouvirestaurant.

Its owner, Rauno Rnnberg, who also runs an Indian restaurantchain in Helsinki, came here to open an establishment that would

place emphasis on the local produce. Together with head che

Ulla Liukkonen, they make careul selections, always taking into

account the regions traditions and possibilities. The restaurant is

ound in a red brick house at the base o a hill with a view o the

lake. The owner and che spend the evening walking amongst the

tables, inquiring about the well-being o their guests. BO

Sailing competition in Lappeenranta

Tipical old town houses


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Festivals

sd scupur FFor the second time in the Sand Sculpture

Festivals eight-year history, children have been

the authors o the estivals theme. This year,

its the circus. A real big-top has been built,

with huge sand elephants, tight-rope walkers,

erocious-looking lions and everything else that a

circus requires. There are also lots o attractions

or kids sandboxes, playgrounds, a carousel and

an obstacle course up in the trees, as well as the

requisite souvenir shops.

Lappeenranta Harbour, June 12 August 28

Go & DoGurmd ju hf-hur frmlpprSr is a lamb dish cooked in a wood-red

baking oven according to a thousand-year-old

tradition. The slow baking guarantees a delicious

taste experience. The Srpirtti Kippurasarvi

restaurant is located in Lemi, hal an hours drive

rom Lappeenranta, and is run by the second

generation o the Hietaranta Family. Srpirtti

Kippurasarvi is the only restaurant in Finland that

specializes in a single lamb dish cooked or about

eight hours.

www.sarapirtti.f

FhgRent a boat or yoursel or go on an organized

excursion with a guide. The most popular sh in

Lake Saimaa are rainbow trout, pike-perch and

lake trout. Dont orget to obtain a license.

www.ahven.net

suI your hotel doesnt have a sauna, head or the

sauna at the public beach. The hours or women

are rom 16:00 to 20:00 on Wednesdays and

Fridays, with the same hours on Tuesdays and

Thursdays or men.

Myllysaari Lakeside Sauna and Beach, Lappeenranta

B GThis will be Lappeenrantas second Ballet Gala.

Perormers will include opera troupes rom

Latvia, Estonia and Kiev, Ukraine as well as artists

rom Germany, the Netherlands and Sweden.

Perormances will be held at the City Theatre o

Lappeenranta on Valtakatu 56.

August 26-27

Cry FCavalry band perormances, riding and battle

shows.

Lappeenranta, August 6-7


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fly to Lappeenranta with

Direct flights from Riga starting from eUR 45

From more than 60 airBaltic network cities via Riga starting fromeUR 94

Earn 5 BalticMiles Points for each Euro spent

BalticMiles partners in Lappeenranta: airBaltic, Cumulus hotels,Avis, Sixt, airBalticTravel, airBalticcard Mobile, Language Direct

soUveniRs

Fd bk frm h luk Kru rurThis restaurant has created a ood basket containing local products, which

is its way o supporting the local economy. It includes horseshoe-shaped

bread made specially or the restaurant rom potato, rye, barley and wheat

fours, as well as honey, cranberry jam, glazed blueberries, chanterelles,

smoked vendace and lamb preserves. Cost: 38.50 EUR.

Vesiportinkuja 5, Lappeenranta Fortress, www.linnoituksenkrouvi.f

lc hdcrf d u ccrLocally-made and other Finnish ceramics, paintings, knitwear and

accessories or the sauna.

Kristiinankatu 1 | www.majurskantalo.f and at the sandcastle

Special thanks to Suvi Ahola from goSaimaa, Mirka Kristiina Rahman fromLappeenranta Cityand everyone else who showed me their hospitality.

www.gosaimaa.com, www.lappeenranta.f and www.imatra.f

South Karelia

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