CASUALTo fryzura jest jak dżinsy i biały T-shirt. Szykowna, wygodna i szybka do zrobienia. Wilgotne włosy spryskaj solą morską w sprayu TONI&GUY. Podkręci ich naturalny skręt, nada im lekkość i letni luz. Wgnieć ją we włosy dłońmi i już ich nie rozczesuj. Liczy się kontrolowany efekt naturalnego, seksownego nieładu na głowie.

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Little Women’sSmaller labels take on the footwear industry with singular looks and find favor with a broader range of retailers. BY JACQUELYN LEWIS

other silhouettes and accessories. Among the advantages of starting small, Che-

vallard added, was the ability to create a strong brand identity from the get-go. “You’re a lot more focused and you’re catering to an exact demo-graphic. You can slowly broaden that, but you are doing it only on a sustainable level as opposed to just throwing 50 different styles out there.”

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WOMEN’S × Niche BrandsMARKETPLACE

30 | | FEBRUARY 4, 2013

For those savvy enough to take advantage of the opportunities — and avoid the pitfalls — in the women’s market, the time may be right for several niche foot-wear brands to find success at retail.

“We’re seeking out more [niche labels] to offer unique product to our custom-ers,” said Lisa Park, DMM for women’s shoes at Barneys New York, which added several such lines for spring ’13, including Alla-giulia, a Rome-based brand that focuses on handmade Italian friulana shoes — part Venetian slippers, part espadrilles.

Allagiulia designer Giulia Campeol founded the line three years ago when she identified a place in the market for her look. “It was a tradition for my mother and me to go to Venice and buy this kind of slipper,” Campeol said of the gondolier styles upon which her la-bel is based. “I also wanted to make the Italian market understand the impor-tance of made-in-Italy.”

Indeed, many designers have created brands based on limited silhouettes and specialized aesthetics, with the inten-tion of easing into the market and later expanding. Others do it out of sheer passion for a certain look. Still, some see a hole in the market where a shoe with a special, exclusive quality might provide an advantage on the sales floor. But no matter the impetus, surviving as a little player in a big market can be a complicated affair.

“I owe my success to starting really focused and direct,” said Matthew Che-vallard, whose 8-year-old Miami-based label, Del Toro, began by offering velvet smoking slippers that were picked up by select Barneys, Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue locations, as well as inde-pendents. He now is branching out with

Giulia Campeolof Allagiulia

A slipper from Charles Philip

Shanghai

The strategy also helped Charles Philip Shang-hai garner more than 220 international accounts in just three years. “We are very committed to the shapes we show,” designer and co-founder Charles Philip said of his smoking slipper-

inspired silhouette, which comes in a variety of prints and materials.

The label debuted men’s looks last year and

plans to expand into four more construc-

tions for fall ’13. “The fact that we stuck to [one silhouette] for the first five seasons really identified us, and [retailers] appreciated that.”

Like Allagiula’s Campeol, Ancient Greek Sandals co-founder Christina Martini honors her heritage with leather footwear based on a ubiq-uitous Greek shoe style, as well as the country’s art and mythology. Her singular vision earned her accounts on four continents and the ability to expand into men’s and kids’ for spring ’13. “If you specialize in something, you have a better chance

at succeeding,” Martini said.According to Park of Barneys, choos-

ing a small-scale brand hinges on exclu-sivity. “[We look for] something unique or unexpected, whether it’s a fabrication, colorway or twist on a classic silhouette,” Park said. “The ability to customize for our store is also a huge benefit.”

She noted that, for spring ’13, Barneys added Allagiulia for its fresh take on the season’s sought-after slippers and moccasins, and also picked up Flamin-gos, a collection of sneaker-like espa-drilles from France, and sneakers from Penelope Chilvers.

Independent retailers — long champi-ons of the little guy — often put an even heavier emphasis on niche brands, and they are relying on them even more now to stay competitive in a market domi-nated by majors with giant shoe floors. “In a city like Los Angeles, where you can find so many brands everywhere, it’s nice that we have a lot of small lines,” said Kristen Lee, creative director and head buyer at Ten Over Six. “People ac-tually come to us for [niche labels].” She listed Brooklyn, N.Y.-based, handcrafted moccasin maker Manimal and Dieppa Restrepo, a collection of unisex English-inspired oxfords and loafers, as hard-to-find names that draw in customers.

Haus of Price, Degen and Gold Dot are among the small labels that give Port-land, Ore.-based Solestruck a leg up,

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VARIATIONs

Retour à la ligne.Le slipper, soulier d’intérieur créé au xixe siècle pour la familleroyale britannique, doit son nom au verbe glisser (« to slip »en anglais), car il est censé s’enfiler en une seconde. Antithèsede la charentaise, il sort de la maison dans les années 1960,lorsque des célébrités américaines comme Dean Martinou Robert Kennedy l’adoptent en public. Plébiscité depuisquelques saisons, le slipper s’illustre dans des motifscontemporains et retourne battre le pavé. L. B.-C.De bas en haut, en coton rayé bleu marine et blanc,toD’s, 298 €. tél. : 01-55-35-20-20.en coton rouge et bleu marine, chez charles PhiliP shanghai,129 €. www.charlesPhiliPshanghai.comen coton à fines rayures marine et blanc, J. crew, 124 €. www.Jcrew.comen coton vert et blanc, cb maDe in italy, 300 €. www.cbmaDeinitaly.com

- 6923 février 2013 – Photo audrey corregan et erik haberfeld pour m le magazine du monde. stylisme fiona Khalifa

23 février 2013

Gérard Depardieu

Génial, pingre, drôle,fragile, insupportable…

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