PGE NARODOWY · 2019-11-19 · SWITZERLAND OMAN PLUS The best place for a winter holiday Investing...

P L U SS W I T Z E R L A N D O M A NThe best place

for a winter holidayInvesting in the future and new

opportunitiesHotel, restaurant, and airline news

S R I L A N K AThe renowned Davos

is a real paradise for skiers

O C T O B E R 2 0 1 9 N°10/2019 (107) 9,60 PLN (8% VAT included)

PGE NARODOWYBusiness is a game

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www.royalcaribbeancruises.pl ul. Świętokrzyska 36, 00-116 Warszawa

[email protected], tel. 004822 455 38 48

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www.royalcaribbeancruises.plul. Tamka 16, lok. 4, 00-349 Warszawa

[email protected], tel.: 00 22 455 38 48

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ZWIEDZAJ ŚWIAT WYGODNIE

REKLAMA ROYAL.indd 2 14.11.2018 13:17

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P L U SS W I T Z E R L A N D O M A NThe best place

for a winter holidayInvesting in the future and new

opportunitiesHotel, restaurant, and airline news

S R I L A N K AThe renowned Davos

is a real paradise for skiers

O C T O B E R 2 0 1 9 N°10/2019 (107) 9,60 PLN (8% VAT included)

PGE NARODOWYBusiness is a game

O C T O B E R 2 0 1 9

12COVER STORY

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DESTINATIONS16 OMAN - CALMLY DOES IT Investing in the future and new opportunities

22 SRI LANKA FOR WINTER HOLIDAYS

36 SKIING IN DAVOS The rich offer of the renowned Swiss ski resort.

40 THE ALPS WITHOUT CROWDS Ski trip to the Pyhrn-Priel and Hinterstoder regions

64 4 HOURS IN... GLASGOW WEST END

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6 EDITORIAL

8 IN THE SPOTLIGHT Hotel, restaurant, and airline news

26 MGALLERY HOTEL COLLECTION NEW BRAND OF BOUTIQUE HOTELS IN POLAND

28 ANGELA SALIBA, GENERAL MANAGER SHERATON WARSAW HOTEL

28 MAMAISON HOTEL LE REGINA WARSAW IN THE HEART OF THE CITY

32 INTERVIEW Dominican Republic for Every Season

42 BUILDING THE FUTURE The centenary of the German Bauhaus art school

46 HERE TO STAY A look at the flourishing sector of serviced apartments

54 IN THE BAG Many fragrance are now offered in smaller, handy bottles

TRIED AND TESTED 58 One Aldwych, London 59 TThe Alexander, A Luxury Collection Hotel, Yerevan

PGE NARODOWY

RACING AHEAD The 1973 Navigator is the perfect accompaniment to Tissot’s revived motorsport connections

BODY OF EVIDENCE

60 Ritz-Carlton, Berlin 61 GWR Night Riviera London-Plymouth

SMART TRAVELLER 62 Tier levels explained

63 Flying with nut allergies

66 ASK PETER Piotr Kalita answers readers' questions

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In the US “Business Traveller” is published at 303 Fifth Avenue, 1308, NY 10016, tel.: 1 212 725 3500.

In Germany “Business Traveller” is published at Schulstrasse 34, 80634 Munich, tel.: 89 167 9971,

fax: 89 167 9937. In Denmark “Business Traveller” is published at Rymarksvej 46, 2900 Hellerup, tel.: 45 3311 4413,

fax: 45 3311 4414. In Hungary “Business Traveller” is published at 1074 Budapest, Munkas utca 9, tel.: 36 1266 5853. In Hong Kong “Business Traveller Asia-Pacific and China” are published

at Suite 405 4/F Chinachem Exchange Square, 1 Hoi Wan Street, Quarry Bay, tel.: 852 2594 9300, fax: 852 2519 6846.

In the Middle East “Business Traveller Middle East” is published jointly by Motivate Publishing, PO Box 2331, Dubai UAE,

tel.: 9714 282 4060, and Perry Publications. In Africa “Business Traveller Africa” is published by Future Publishing (Pty) Ltd,

PO Box 3355, Rivonia 2128, South Africa, tel.: 27 11 803 2040.

© 2009 Perry Publications Ltd – a subsidiary of Panacea Publishing International Ltd, United Kingdom

Business Traveller Poland ul. Tamka 16, lok. 4, 00-349 Warszawa

tel.: +48 22 455 38 14, faks: +48 22 455 38 13 www.businesstraveller.pl

Redaktor naczelna

Dyrektor artystyczna

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Wydawca

Szef serwisu www.businesstraveller.pl

Reklama, sponsoringDystrybucja, prenumerata

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Business Traveller Managing Director

Marzena Mróz [email protected] Scharf [email protected] [email protected]

ul. Tamka 16, lok. 4 00-349 Warszawa tel.: +48 22 455 38 14 faks: +48 22 455 38 13Robert Grzybowski [email protected]

Filip Gawryś [email protected]@businesstraveller.plPiotr Grzybowski [email protected]

LOTOS Poligrafia sp. z o.o. 04-987 Warszawa ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 98 tel.: 22 872 22 66 www.lotos-poligrafia.pl

Julian GregoryPanacea MediaLower Ground Floor41-43 Maddox StreetLondon W1S 2PDtel.: +44 20 7821 2700www.panaceapublishing.comwww.businesstraveller.com

W I N T E R C H A L L E N G E SWith winter just two months away, it’s a good idea to plan both your ski holiday, as well as a trip to warmer and sunnier destinations. For hot weather lovers I recommend an exciting trip to Sri Lanka, especially because LOT Polish Airlines is now launching a direct service from Warsaw to Colombo.

Sri Lanka is all about the sea, but also the country of high mountains. There is something for everyone here: impressive historic buildings, breath--taking landscapes, beaches for sunbathers and surfers, old-fashioned trains riding along picturesque tea hills, and national parks with unique wildli-fe. It’s also an excellent place for both trekking and relaxation in a resort offering Ayurveda massages. And since from November until March the temperature here is at 30 degrees Celsius, Sri Lanka is also a perfect spot for cold-o-phobes to get them through winter.

And if you are a ski aficionado, then look no further than Davos - the highest located town in Europe, the oldest health resort in Switzerland, and the annual venue of the World Economic Forum. It’s a real paradise for skiers, too, with snow covering the slopes from early December to May, and Davos has four ski stations: the two smaller ones (Madrisa and Pischa) for children, as well as two larger ones (Jakobshorn and Parsenn), with lots of lifts and pistes of varying difficulty (in total about 300 km). The centre of Davos is home to lower stations of two funiculars: Parsennbahn carries skiers to the top of Parsenn mountain, while a private tram takes you to Schatzalp – a charming place with a former sanatorium, described by Thomas Mann in his book entitled “The Magic Mountain.” Enjoy your reading!

M A R Z E N A M R Ó ZR E D A K T O R N A C Z E L N A

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Products and services are subject to change depending on flight duration and aircraft.

Enjoy your dream flight with the Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner.

A DREAMLIKE FLIGHT

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A must-read for passionate mountaineers

LUXURY REAL ESTATE

Bieszczady Mountains - a group of two mountain ranges forming the Outer Eastern Carpathians - have their ardent

fans, who visitin this scenic region at least once a year to wander around its beautiful pastu-res. But this elegant book published by BOSZ Publishing House is aimed at much broader

reading public. It will also appeal to those who so far haven’t had a chance to visit Bieszczady, encouraging them to explore it. This richly illu-strated album shows the extraordinary beauty of the region's fauna and flora, characteristic for each of the four seasons of the year. You can admire it thanks to captivating photographs,

PARK LANE AND COSMOPOLITANThe latest data collected by High Level Sales & Marketing shows that the number of luxury apartments sold in Warsaw increased from 115 in the first half of 2018 to 126 in the first half of 2019. At the same time, the supply of luxury properties in the capital city has increased by 62 percent. The average price per square meter in this segment has exceeded PLN28,000.Among the ten most expensive investments currently available in the capital city, as many as four are offered by High Level Sales & Marketing. At the top of the list there is Park Lane residence situ-ated near Royal Łazienki Park, with the price of PLN37,500 per sqm. Cosmopolitan apartment building has come runner-up in the ranking with PLN37,000 per sqm. The 9th and 10th positions are occupied by two investments situated in Saska Kępa - one of the most prestigious districts of Warsaw. These are Berezyńska 46 with the price of PLN27,500 per sqm, and Angorska 13A, where one sqm costs PLN25,500. hlsm.pl

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A tribute fashion show on flight to New YorkAUTUMN IN HAWAII

Endless beaches, the best surf spots in the world, fragrant rainforests, volcano peaks that are no strangers to snow, waterfalls winding in the middle of unspoilt valleys, and moun-tains emerging against the background of a rainbow sky - all known from numerous film productions that were made here. It was here, in Hawaii, where they shot scenes for “The Jurassic Park”, “Indiana Jones”, “The Descendants” and “The Hunger Games”. It's here where the whole world meets. Businesspeopleand hipsters surf together on the biggest waves, make the shaka sign to each other, which is the local gesture of friendly intent. Famous actors and Japanese tourists gorge in the delicious mahi-mahi fish. Yoga and detox lovers as well as sports aficionado and life sprinters climb together the peak of the highest volcano in Maui - Haleakala.

carefully selected by the album's graphic de-signer Leszek Szurkowski. The charm of the nature of the region so beautifully conveyed by the stunning images, will surely be a great source of inspiration for those researching their summer holiday options. The book was prefaced by Barbara and Bogdan Szymanik.

On 4 September 2019, during a flight from Amsterdam to New York, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines and its passen-gers reminisced about KLM uniforms over the years. In the run-up to the airline’s 100th anniversary on 7 October, the aisles were transformed into a catwalk where crew members modelled the KLM uniforms and related accessories of the time. The KLM uniform has seen many faces since 1935, but it has always been elegant, which was clearly seen during the catwalk in the sky, when crew members showed off uniforms from 1957 to the present day.The fashion show in the sky tied in ni-cely with the World Fashion Week that was held in September in New York, but it also spoke for itself because there is much to tell about the history of the KLM uniforms. “Few people know that we have only been wearing the current – and very recognisable – blue colour since 1971,” said Cliff Mu-skiet, KLM purser and initiator of the airborne fashion show. “And famous designers such as Nina Ricci and Mart Visser have often worked on them. It’s great that crew and passengers respon-ded so enthusiastically. It was certainly a special event in the run-up to KLM’s 100th anniversary,” he added.

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Imagine you sail on a large, picturesque lake somewhere in Euro-pe and the next day you go skiing on a large glacier covered with freshly fallen snow. But wait... is it even possible? Generally not, with the exception of Tyrol - Austria’s most mountainous region.

The best time to combine sailing and skiing is autumn and spring. Achensee is the largest Alpine lake in the Tyrol with the quiet tourist towns of Achenkirch, Maurach, Pertisau, Stein-berg and Wiesing scattered around it. Surrounded by several two-thousanders, the lake is long, narrow and 133 metres deep

at its deepest point. It’s also famous for its azure and crystal clear waters, which warm up to 20 °C. You can pick up your Soling boat from a family-run Yachtschule Schwaiger sailing academy in Achenkirch.

On the same day you can also ski on the Hintertux Glacier located just 60 kilometres away. At an altitude of 3250 metres, the conditions for skiing are perfect even in spring and autumn. The glacier offers nearly 30 kilometres of well-groomed pistes, as well as beautiful glacial plateaus.

LOT EXPANDS ITS SERVICES FROM CRACOW TO THE USANext summer, LOT Polish Airlines will offer a wider range of flights on Cracow-USA routes. This means that the residents of the region of Lesser Poland will have an easier access to two major American airports served by LOT's Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft. The new services departing Cracow Airport and arriving at John F. Kennedy Airport in New York will be launched on 3 May 2020.LOT’s offer of flights from Cracow to Chicago will also be expan-ded. Beginning next summer, the frequency of weekly services on this route will be increased to five from three flights a week available today. “I’m convinced that Polish diaspora in the USA, as well as busi-ness passengers and tourists visiting both Poland and the North America will be happy to fly with us on board our state-of-the art Dreamliners, and they will highly rate our services,” says LOT’s CEO, Rafał Milczarski. lot.com

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W O R D S M O N I K A B O R Z D Y Ń S K A , Director of Communications and Promotion PGE NARODOWY

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Kazimierz Górski, the legendary Polish footballer and coach, who led Poland national football team to gold medal at the 1972 Olympic Games in Munich, once said that “as long as the ball is in play,

everything is possible.” The same is true in business. As long as you are in the game, the result is still open. PGE Narodowy stadium is a

per fect venue for a business meeting.

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The success of PGE Narodowy is a result of many people and it’s worth taking a closer look at how it was achieved.She loves law, but her

first real passions were German langu-age and tourism, which later gave way to legal counsellor traineeship. Her experience in public administration, quality management and the Ministry of Sport and Tourism has given her a powerful substantial weapon, which she now uses to manage one of the lar-gest multifunctional arenas in Europe. We are talking to Alicja Omięcka, the CEO of PL2012+, the company ma-naging the PGE Narodowy.

PGE Narodowy - is it a proud-soun-ding name?For me it’s the second home, a place with which I identify, to which I have great sentiment and at the same time

feel respect. In my opinion, it’s the most beautiful national landmark ever built. It’s not only dignified and impressive, but it also has its own incredible history, and above all, exudes the spirit of sport, unity and the pride in being Polish. I’m proud to be a part of it and of its deve-lopment process.

What is the key to success in effecti-ve management?In managing such a large facility, numbers are very important, but pe-ople are the key element. I’m talking here not only about the employees taking care of PGE Narodowy, but also about guests and fans who create its atmosphere and history every day. It’s simply wonderful. To understand this, just watch a TV broadcast of one of many events held here. Tho-se emotions are amazing: joy, excite-ment and euphoria are intertwined here with sadness, regret and the bitterness of defeat. But the truth is

that we are all winners anyway, be-cause we can be present in this unique place and absorb its one of a kind at-mosphere. PGE Narodowy unites all Poles and it doesn’t matter whether it happens at football matches, concerts or business events. It’s the goal that counts. The white and red flag placed on the spire is of particular impor-tance, which I always stress. It’s our common symbol. Every Pole should at least once visit PGE Narodowy, because, after all, it’s also his venue.

What is the main magnet attrac-ting such big crowds here? Is the facility itself such a big attraction or perhaps the numerous events held here?Every year we are visited by two million people. PGE Narodowy is a true icon of the national sport, so now wonder that at matches of the national team the stadium is full to the brim. The same is true for most concerts held here.

FROM LEFT: Alicja Omięcka - the CEO of PL2012+, the company managing the PGE Narodowy;a banquet held at PGE Narodowy


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The phenomenal concert of Metallica in August this year was watched by nearly 60,000 fans. However, even on day-to-day basis the venue is alive with action, especially as we organize nume-rous tours of the venue allowing visitors to explore the place thoroughly. Here numbers also play an important role, making visitors intrigued and hungry for more. For example, what 368, 426 and 500 refer to? The first number is how many grass rolls you need to create the fully functional football pitch. The second one is the how big our video screens are in inches. And the third one is the total surface of the athletes’ zone, which has a direct access to the main field.

National PGE is growing in strength and generates income year after year. However, aren’t you afraid that over the time and with a different situation in the market, it can become less attractive?

13/10/2019:Poland - Macedonia

19/11/2019: Poland - Slovenia

02/05/2020: The Polish Cup in football

16/05/2020: PZM Warsaw FIM Speedway Grand Prix of Poland

17/07/2020: Rammstein

22/08/2020:Andrea Boccelli

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In line with our detailed strategy, we hold here more events that we are the main organizer or co-organizer. These include such spectacular and success-ful events, as “Dawid Podsiadło and Taco Hemingway at PGE Narodo-wy” concert, where we hosted the whole event. It’s hardly a secret that we have very ambitious development plans. We want to meet the expec-tations of the market, sport, society and our partners. We focus on the strongest brands, which allow us to develop and which, in turn, are able to expand their potential thanks to us, because PGE Narodowy is also a space for business. We are constantly using a range of tools to become even more attractive to our clients. With active sales of our space, PGE Naro-dowy hosts hundreds of business me-etings every year. The venue is still an unrivalled example of a state-of-the--art facility, where you can hold any type of event.

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Multifunctional arenaPGE Narodowy is one of Europe's most modern multifunctional arenas. It’s the largest stadium in Poland and the only one in this part of Europe with the hi-ghest UEFA Elite Stadiums category. Thanks to a carefully adopted business model, the arena is vibrant with life all year round. The facility has an extensi-ve offer for sports and music fans, en-thusiasts of science and culture, urban sports and active leisure aficionado, as well as entrepreneurs who can actively expand their businesses in our arena. For sportspeople the facility is a true white and red fortress, a venue brin-ging luck not only to Polish footballers, but also our national volleyball team, speedway riders and athletes. Fans of good music value the arena highly for numerous concerts of the world’s gre-atest music stars that are held here on regular basis. For guests visiting PGE, the arena is, in turn, a source of positi-ve emotions they wouldn’t be able to experience anywhere else. Every year several hundred events take place here. The arena’s fast adaptability is its great asset, providing a great dose of energy to both the stadium itself and people involved in managing this huge facility.

Place for businessThe stadium is very popular with bu-sinesspeople due to its unique environ-ment, which provides a perfect bac-kdrop for holding business events. As the largest conference and congress centre in Warsaw, PGE Narodowy of-fers a wider range of event organizing options than hotels and typical conven-tion centres. Its advantage can be seen in its versatility. The most important business events take place in the very heart of the arena, which was also the venue for the NATO summit, where the most important decisions concer-ning the eastern flank of the alliance were discussed by the world’s leaders, including Barack Obama, Angela Merkel and the British Prime Minister David Cameron. On a daily basis, for the purposes of business events PGE Narodowy offers a dedicated conferen-ce centre, which can accommodate up to 2000 guests, as well as the 3,200 sqm Business Club. The organizers of

FROM TOP: PZM Warsaw FIM SpeedwayGrand Prix of Poland 2019;A match of Poland national football team, 2013;Ed Sheeran concert, 2018


smaller business meetings can rent 62 comfortable skyboxes and numerous non-standard spaces. It’s safe to say that PGE Narodowy is a guarantee of a successful event.

A must-see landmarkThe modern architecture of the PGE Narodowy attracts numerous tourists, offering them many memorable attrac-tions. The stadium and its surroundin-gs are open until late at night, seven days a week. The place welcomes both those who come here to concerts and sporting events, as well as those who want to simply explore it or practise urban sports. PGE Narodowy also of-

fers unique sightseeing tours. During such tours you can visit the locker room of the Poland national football team, where not only Robert Lewandowski, but also Cristiano Ronaldo himself pre-pared for matches at UEFA Euro 2012.In addition, a visit to PGE Narodo-wy is a great opportunity to enjoy a number of other attractions. Kart ra-cing, longboard workshops, roller-ska-ting classes, cross-country trainings, a viewpoint platform or interactive and innovative smart Smart Kids Planet Centre, are just some of many forms of active leisure you can take advantage of when visiting the largest stadium in Poland. n

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ACT PGE NARODOWY

al. ks. J. Poniatowskiego 1 03-901 Warsaw

BUSINESS EVENTS tel.: +48 22,295 95 55 e-mail: [email protected]

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Unlike some of its neighbours, Oman has taken a sof tly, sof tly approach to development and retained its unique character

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Calmly does it

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Oman’s maritime history is woven throughout Muscat. Everywhere you look in the capital, from its rounda-bouts to the Royal

Opera House, there are photos, pain-tings and murals depicting the coun-try’s seafaring heritage.

It’s hardly surprising when you con-sider that the Sultanate anchors the Arabian Peninsula to the Indian Oce-an, its 1,700km of rugged coastline extending from the border of Yemen to the rocky enclave of Musandam in the north. And this is the home of Sinbad, after all.

Twenty years ago, Dubai’s rising sun was all but eclipsing Oman’s am-bitions as a tourist destination. Thanks largely to Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said, Muscat retained its identity and avoided the kind of untethered deve-lopment that saw its glitzy neighbour swamped by shopping malls and of-fshore projects.

The capital relied on a handful of interna-tional hotel chains that happily, if sleepily, plied their trade to expatriate engineers, oil and gas executives, teachers and nurses. Infrastructure outside of the city was practically non-existent, its coastal roads pot-ho-led and treacherous if one

of the frequent typhoons had blown in. Muscat’s patience has

been admirable – it has been ripe for development for

decades, the Sultanate’s GDP in 2000 being US$19.51 billion, com-pared with US$79.29 billion today. Some 51 per cent of this is down to Oman’s oil and natural gas extrac-tion; however, according to a new report by the World Travel and To-urism Council, tourism is set to sky-rocket, with its value predicted to reach US$8.67 billion alone over the

next decade, making it 8.9 per cent of GDP by 2028.

All the same, the past 18 months have been less than smooth and the In-ternational Monetary Fund lowered the country’s forecast growth rate from 1.1 per cent to 0.3 per cent, largely down to a decline in oil prices.

A SENSE OF PLACETo describe a city as quaint may seem trite, but not so with Muscat. It’s a place with its own distinct, almost villa-ge-like, aesthetic – a ten-storey limit is imposed on developments to keep the cityscape on a human scale. New roads that arc across the city have thankfully not diminished its character – it’s not quite the sleepy fishing port that it used to be, but neither is it Shanghai.

Ten years ago, the business traveller’s choice of five-star hotel within the city was limited to the Al Bustan Palace, the Intercontinental and the sleek, then newly built, Chedi, the precursor of things to come. The latest game-chan-ger to hit the market is the Kempinski

The tax-free incomes enjoyed by expatriate workers continue to be a draw

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Muscat inside Oman Convention and Exhibition Centre

Muscat, which launched in 2017. The 310-room property is located in the Wave district and has ten international restaurants and bars, an exceptional spa and a ballroom for 700 guests.

In June, the 279-room W Ho-tel Muscat opened in the beachfront Shatti Al Qurum district, giving a considerable boost to the capital’s bid to capture more of the luxury to-urism market.

LAND OF OPPORTUNITYEarlier this year, Minister of Tourism Ahmed bin Nasser Al Mahrizi signed 11 agreements for projects across the country that would include multiple hotel and resort developments, Omani heritage markets, souqs, commercial districts and harbours.

Mohammed bin Hammoud Al Zad-

jali, director-general of investor services and quality management at the Mini-stry of Tourism, says the signings are part of efforts to encourage investment. “These agreements are expected to in-crease tourism facilities and services to boost economic development and diversify sources of national income as part of an ongoing government stra-tegy,” he says. “They will serve local communities by creating employment opportunities for Omani youth, while empowering the tourism sector as one of the five major sectors adopted in the national programme to promote econo-mic diversification.” The other four are oil and gas, water resourcing, agricultu-re and fisheries, and banking.

Amit Garg, director of operations and development at Al Nahda Hotels and Resorts, whose portfolio includes

the luxury Dunes desert resort in Wadi Al Abyad sands, explains some of the other ways that the country is trying to boost its appeal: “The implementation of electronic visa processing at the new Muscat International airport terminal, improvements at Port Sultan Qaboos, and the success of the Oman Conven-tion and Exhibition Centre since it ope-ned in 2016 mean tourism in Oman is now booming.” In this, he says, the co-untry is aided by its “character, charm, natural attractions and legendary Omani hospitality”.

INVESTING FOR THE FUTUREIn March last year, Muscat Internatio-nal opened its new terminal, increasing passenger capacity from 14 million per year in 2017 to an anticipated 20 mil-lion this year (though it is still some way


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off reaching that figure), with future phases planned that will boost it still further to 48 million. The airport now features a 97-metre air traffic control tower and second runway (for more on the new airport terminal see our next issue). National carrier Oman Air sta-bles a modern fleet of 53 aircraft here, including five Boeing Dreamliners.

The country’s MICE offering is re-latively small, but the Oman Conven-tion and Exhibition Centre is expected to show significant returns over the next few years as it draws from the over-subscribed UAE and Saudi Arabia markets. A short hop from the airport, it boasts 22,000 sqm of exhibition spa-ce and a 3,200-seat theatre.

While investment in tourism rema-ins strong in Oman, it is dwarfed by the mega developments of its neighbo-urs, especially Doha and Dubai. Still, government investment e-portal Oma-nuna is keen to point out its location overlooking international and regional sea lanes, and ports that “open new horizons for investment and free tra-ding”. It has four free zones, including Salalah in the south and Musandam in the north, while the tax-free incomes enjoyed by expatriate workers continue to be a draw.

Muscat is an attractive proposition to those willing to invest long-term and accept this ancient, culture-rich part of Arabia which has a tendency to move at a more leisurely pace. That said, Oman has been trading internationally for centuries. One of the world’s most valuable commodities, Frankincense, once emanated from this country. The trading mentality is firmly hard-wired into the Omani DNA. n

EXPLORING THE CITYWHAT TO SEE: Bait al Zubair, the capital’s go-to museum, will leave your head spinning with wonder at the Sultanate’s incredible past, with exhi-bits including a large collection of ancient weapons. Open 9.30am-6pm Sat-Thurs, entry 2 rials (£4.30). baitalzubair.comSultan Qaboos is a classical music lover (he once commissioned a pastoral arrangement from Mission Impossible composer Lalo Schifrin) and in 2011 he opened the Royal Opera House Muscat. International performances are frequent – next month will see the Philharmonique de Monte Carlo and the choir of Opéra de Monte Carlo perform Puccini’s La Bohème. Booking ahead is recommended. rohmuscat.org.omWHERE TO STAY: Many international chains now have hotels in Muscat and more are on the way – a JW Marriott property is set to open in November next to the Oman Convention and Exhibition Centre, while the Mandarin Oriental Muscat is due to launch in 2021. One hotel that is especially good if you are extending your trip across a weekend is the Chedi Muscat, a modern, low-rise beachfront property located about four miles from the centre of the city. The infinity pool is an Instagram-mer’s dream, although don’t let that put you off. ghmhotels.com WHERE TO EAT: While most business hotels in Muscat offer outstanding fusions of regional food, for a more street-level experience you’re best off exploring the Al Muttrah Corniche and the Bait al Luban (House of Frankincense). The latter, a converted guesthouse that is more than a century old, serves up the city’s most authentic Omani food, a blend of Arabic, Indian and East African flavours (the Sultan of Oman once ruled the spice island of Zanzibar and evidence of this persists in the local cuisine). Recommended dishes include Ma’asoora, salt-preserved white fish cooked with onions and served with Omani ghee. baitalluban.com

FROM TOP: Royal Opera House, Muscat; the Kempinski Muscat; the Intercontinental; Dunes by Al Nahda resort


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www.celebritycruises.pl ul. Tamka 16, lok.4, 00-349 Warszawa

tel. 004822 455 38 48

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SRI LANKA FOR WINTER

HOLIDAYS


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Sri Lanka is all about the sea, but also the country of high mountains. It’s an excellent

place for both trekking and relaxation in a resort offering Ayurveda massages.

It’s famous for its delicious Ceylon tea, but also cinnamon plantations.

On 3 November, LOT Polish Airlines will be launching a new seasonal flight from Warsaw

to Colombo, Sri Lanka.

2 3 The island of Ceylon, due to its shape and geographical location, is often referred to as the Tear of India. Now known as Sri Lanka, the island has been under the in-fluence of its continental neighbour for centuries, but it has managed to retain its distinctiveness and cultural wealth. There

is something for everyone here: impressive historic buildin-gs, breath-taking landscapes, beaches for sunbathers and surfers, old-fashioned trains riding along picturesque tea hills, and national parks with unique wildlife. And since from November until March the temperature here is at 30 degrees Celsius, Sri Lanka is also a perfect spot for cold-o-phobes to get them through winter.

Colombo The largest city of Sri Lanka and its administrative capital, Colombo was once a small fishing and trading settlement, which grew considerably during the Dutch rule of the island. The city is inhabited by people of different cultures and religions and it continues to grow with numerous modern buildings constructed every year next to historic Christian and Buddhist temples. Some of the not-to-be-missed spots in the capital include the Sri Lankan National Museum, its picturesque temples, as well as the island's largest marketplace. Note that Colombo is divided into 15 districts, each with its own number and name.

Wilpattu National Park The island’s largest national park is famous mainly for the largest population of leopards in Sri Lanka. If you are lucky, you will also see here buffaloes, sloth bears, deer and crocodiles. The nature reserve was established in 1905 and the national park in 1938. The characteristic feature of this area are numerous small lakes, sometimes more reminiscent of large puddles (hence the name of the park - 'Wil' means 'puddle', 'lake'), in which rainwater is collected.

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Nuwara Elija In my opinion, this spot offers the most scenic landscapes on the island. With high mountains covered with evergreen vegetation, plantations of famous Ceylon tea, waterfalls and English flower gardens, the place looks simply fabulous. Nuwara Elija is criss-crossed by the most beautiful railway routes in the world and offers unlimited possibilities for trekking and active leisure, possible owing to the area’s pleasantly cool climate. You can stay here in one of the many good hotels, trying the excellent cuisine of the region and going on numerous excursions

every day.

Anuradhapura The former capital of the island has preserved a numer of architecturally fascinating

buildings from centuries ago. Those include temples, dagobas and palaces. It’s also home to the oldest cultivated tree in the world with a documented written history, called Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi. It’s believed to have been established from the southern branch of the peepal (or esathu) tree (Ficus religiosa) in whose shade the Buddha achieved enlightenment. For centuries, the once great city disappeared, overrun by the jungle. It was re-discovered in the 19th century and its unusual buildings can be seen again. In 1982, Anuradhapura was granted UNESCO World List of Natural and Cultural Heritage.Golden Temple of Dambulla The Buddhist Golden Temple dates back to the 1st century BC. It consists

Everybody can find here something to their liking. Impressive historic sites, magnificent landscapes, beaches and national parks.

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Sri Lanka’s vast sandy beaches, are extremely popular with sunbathing aficionado coming here from all over the world, especially in winter months. Arugam Bay is a real paradise for surfers. Suffice it to say that say that it’s ranked among top 10 spots in the world to practice this exciting sport, mainly thanks to the unique Pottuvil Point - a hollow right-hand reef break where the wave begins up the point and can run close to the shore for almost a kilometre. Those looking for fine sand, water and sun, can also stay in one of many excellent five-star hotels on the island. And if your expectations are really high, try the beach at Mount Lavinia suburb of Colombo. You won’t be disappointed.

Bundala National Park A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Bundala National Park is home to more than 200 species of birds. If you are lucky, you will spot here exotic flamingos, Indian cormorants, Eurasian spoonbills, lesser adjutants or black storks. You can also come across here Indian elephants, leopards, wild bores, crocodiles and tortoises. The park is also home to 400 species of plants.

Ella ValleyThis small resort enjoys a great popularity with foreign tourists, mostly because of being close to excellent trekking routes such as the Little Adam's Peak, which offers a wonderful view of the valley and Ravana waterfalls.The town with its small guesthouses, bars and restaurants has its own unique atmosphere, and lying high above the sea level, it enjoys average annual temperature of around 20 degrees Celsius.



of five sanctuaries and is the largest and best preserved rock temple complex in Sri Lanka. The most unique are wall paintings occupying an area of 2100 sqm, as well as numerous Buddha statues.

Kandy The city is famous for one of the most amazing attractions, which is the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, visited by tourists from all over the world. To see the relic, you have to line up in a long queue. One of the largest cities in Sri Lanka (as evidenced by its Sinhalese name - Mahanuwara - which simply means “a great city”), Kandy boasts a number of historic landmarks, making it UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage site.

Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage This unique orphanage established in the 1970s is a refuge for young elephants abandoned by their mothers. Currently, there are about one hundred animals living here, half of which are elephants born in captivity. It’s undoubtedly one of the most popular attractions of the island. You can observe here baby elephants up close or even try to feed them milk from a bottle.

Sigiriya One of the country’s biggest landmarks, Sigiriya is an ancient rock fortress built in the 5th century AD on the top of a 200-metre rock near the town of Dambulla. Sigiriya is considered to be one of the most important urban planning sites of the first millennium, and the site plan is considered very elaborate and imaginative. n

FROM LEFT:Wilpattu National Park; Lake Beira in Colombo; Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy; Sigiriya

When to visitIdeally in the months from November to March, when the temperature is around 30 degre-es Celsius.

How to get there?You can fly to Sri Lanka directly with LOT Polish Airlines. The service will be available seaso-nally from 3 November 2019 to 28 March 2020, departing three times a week. The flights will be operated by state-of-the--art B787 Dreamliners. Detailed flight schedule and tickets at lot.com

VisaYou can obtain the visa without by filling out a simple online application form. Importantly, the Sri Lankan authorities have recently waived tourist visa fees for six months, starting 1 August 2019.

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The AccorHotels Group is expanding its MGal-lery Hotel Collection in Poland. In March 2019, the chain of excellent bo-utique hotels welcomed a new property - Bachleda

Luxury Hotel Krakow MGallery - and in August this year the first guests checked into The Bridge Wrocław MGallery. Combining the highest standard of service with the world of rituals, fascinating stories and original ideas, the brand offers a completely new quality in the segment of luxury hospitality.

“MGallery Hotel Collection is an offer aimed at passionate guests, who expect from the hotel a unique expe-rience of traveling and exploring new cultures. Experiencing art and unusual design, blissful relaxation in the spa or enjoying one-of-a-kind cuisine... This is exactly what MGallery is about. Each hotel is unique, has its own history, ri-tuals, and is part of the cityscape and tradition of the place, in which it's located,” says Joanna Świerkosz, VP Marketing & Guest Experience Eastern Europe at AccorHotels Group.

DESIGN AND ARCHITECTUREThe key elements of MGallery’s philo-sophy are design and architecture. It’s through the design of buildings and their interiors - from the lobby, restau-rant, spa to the guest rooms - each ho-tel is able to tell a different story. Such a property may have a classic character, allude to a specific era or be downright modern, but should always reflect the climate of the place where it’s located. The interiors of the hotels are often decorated with tasteful works of art, designer furniture or feature surprising architectural solutions. This is imme-diately visible in The Bridge Wrocław

MGallery Hotel Collectionnew brand of boutique hotels

in Poland

MGallery, where the modern atmos-phere of the city blends seamlessly with the rich heritage of the Cathedral Island (Ostrów Tumski). Large windows, na-tural materials, warm candlelight - all this tells the story of old Wrocław and takes you to the mystical world of me-dieval cathedrals.

ENRICHING EXPERIENCEAs you may expect from a boutique hotel brand, every MGallery property

As you may expect from a boutique hotel brand, every MGallery property is unique.

is unique, but they all are united by the idea of creating a one-of-a-kind experience inspired by local culture and history. Such an experience may be offered in form of signature cock-tails offered in the bar, a unique menu, relaxing rituals in the spa, dedicated scents in the room or the so-called Memorable Moment experiences, such as a helicopter flight to Zakopane for an exclusive mountain picnic with Ba-chleda Luxury Hotel Cracow MGal-lery - a truly magical experience you will never forget.

MGALLERY COLLECTIONCurrently, the MGallery collection comprises more than 100 properties located in 28 countries around the world. In the region of Eastern Europe the properties can be found e.g. in Pra-gue, Budapest, Tarcin near Sarajevo, and now also in Wrocław and Cracow. Further openings in the coming years are planned in such destinations as Jurata and Provdiv, Bulgaria.Marzena Mróz

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OD LEWEJ: The Bridge Wroclaw MGallery; Bachleda Luxury Hotel Kraków, MGallery

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Angela Saliba has recen-tly been appointed the General Manager of the Sheraton Hotel in Warsaw. Angela is a pas-sionate and committed hotelier with 27 years of

experience in the industry. She started her career in hospitality in Malta, whe-re she was involved in various roles in the group's Rooms Division, until she joined the launch team of Westin Dra-gonara Resort, the first Westin opened outside the United States in 1997. During her tenure at the Westin Ho-tel in Malta, Angela held a number of positions, including the Executive Ho-usekeeper and later she was promoted to the Director of Six Sigma. At that time she was also a member of the Ma-nagement Board of the Malta Tourist Office. In June 2007, she was promo-ted to the position of Director of Le Meridien St. Julians Hotel & Spa, the most prominent spa hotel in Malta, where she joined the team within the first year of the property’s opening. In 2011, she was appointed Complex Hotel Manager at the renowned Co-sta Navarino luxury resort in Greece, comprising Westin Costa Navarino

and The Romanos, Luxu-ry Collection Resort.

From October 2013, Angela managed the Sheraton Cracow, the le-ading and undoubtedly the most recognizable hotel in the capital of Lesser Poland. In 2016, the property became the first Sheraton ho-tel in Poland to receive Sheraton Grand status,

becoming Sheraton Grand Cracow and offering a re-

furbished product, excellent location and exceptional service.

In the years 2014-2016 Angela was

Angela Saliba, General Manager Sheraton Warsaw Hotel

H O T E L S

Angela Saliba's extensive knowledge of the hotel industry will serve the team and the hotel.

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a member of the Sheraton GM Advisory Board for Europe, Africa and the Middle East. At the Mar-riott Directors General Conference in April 2017, Angela was named Mana-ging Director of the Year for major brands on the European continent.

Her huge commitment remains a truly invaluable as-set for the Sheraton Warsaw team, which she has now jo-ined. This is a decisive time for the hotel that is about to complete the major renova-tion of its public areas and re-staurants. Her vast knowledge o f the hotel industry will serve the team and the hotel, which is becoming an important meeting venue on the map of Warsaw.

Angela is pleased to continue her career in Poland. She enthusiastically embraced the move to Warsaw and is happy to continue her adventure in the country she already knows and where she feels at home. n

This is a decisive time for the hotel that is about to complete the major renovation of its public areas and restaurants.

FROM TOP: Deluxe Room, Club Executive Suite, Sheraton

Warsaw Hotel


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If you wish to feel the atmosphere of the Old Town of Warsaw and at the same time spend time in a unique boutique hotel, then the-re is only one place to go: Mama-ison Hotel Le Régina.

WHERE IS IT?With its attractive location, Mama-ison Hotel Le Regina is one of the best addresses in the city, especially for those who would like to relax in a historic setting. The property is situ-ated in Kościelna Street in Warsaw's New Town, adjacent to the district’s market, the Franciscan Church or the Sapieha Palace. It’s also a few minu-

Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw In the heart of the city

H O T E L S

Mamaison Hotel Le Regina is one of the best addresses in the city, especially for those who would like to relax in a historic setting.

tes’ walk from here to the Barbican or the Old Town. Going down the Vistula embankment, you will reach the banks of the river as well as the Multimedia Fountain Park.The hotel, which celeberated its 15th brithday this year, is well connected to the city centre – the Warsaw Chopin Airport is just 11-kilometres away, while a 15-minute walk will take you to two underground stations: Ratusz Arsenał i Dworzec Gdański.

ROOMS AND SUITESThis is a first-class boutique hotel. It offers unique suites and rooms – each with a different décor, shape and cha-

racter. The colours of the interiors are sub-dued and elegant with dominant tones of be-ige, brown and grey. All rooms and suites fe-ature Italian furniture, individually controlled air conditioning, free broadband internet, plasma TV and luxu-

ry bathrooms. Superior and Deluxe rooms also

have hand-painted fre-scoes. Each Deluxe room

comes with a private terrace, which seems to be a perfect place

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for for breakfast for two or a roman-tic dinner. Some windows overlook Kościelna Street, while others have the views of the hotel patio, where at warm days you can have breakfast. Guests can choose from six types of rooms and suites: Classic Room, Su-perior Room, Deluxe Room, Pentho-use Suite, Le Regina Suite, as well as the Presidential Suite.

SPA, RESTAURANT AND CONFERENCESThe hotel’s meeting facilities can ac-commodate up to 170 guests. Free

MICE concierge services are available. Those who seek ultimate rest, should definitely try the hotel’s relaxation area with a swimming pool, sauna, as well as a wellness centre. The list of available treatments is long and will satisfy even the most demanding spa aficionado.

The hotel has a bar and the exquisi-te La Rotisserie restaurant with a ne-wly appointed, award-winning head chef Artur Grajber, who is a well-k-nown personality on Warsaw culinary scene. mamaison.com/pl

The hotel has a bar and an award-winning La Rotisserie restaurant.

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Why should you visit the Dominican Republic in win-ter?First of all, it’s a great place to get away from the winter frosts in Europe. The country boasts more than 1600km of Carib-bean coastline, beautiful beaches with white sand, luxurious hotels, delicious food and a wide range of exciting excursions around the island. With nine different ecological zones and a wonderful climate, I’m certain that anyone will find there something they will like. From observing whales in Saman to exciting water sports on Cabarete. Those various places and numerous activities available in the Dominican Republic will certainly help you to get through winter months.

This year, the Dominican Republic Tourism Board in Prague, which also takes care of the Polish market, cele-brates its tenth birthday. This makes a good opportuni-ty to evaluate its activities. What do you consider to be your greatest achievement?The Polish market is for us the best example on which we can present our acheivements in the recent years. We have changed the face of the Dominican Republic from a distant destination to a well-known and popular one, which is liked by Polish tourists. Today, the Dominican Republic is visited annually by about 40,000 Poles and this number increases every year. In 2019, we have observed a 23-percent incre-ase compared to the same period last year. We continue our work, trying hard to maintain these favourable results.

How many foreigners visit the Dominican Republic eve-ry year?According to the statistics for 2018, last year the Dominican Republic was visited by about 6,5 million foreign tourists, which means a cumulative increase of 5.1%. With new air services from Latin America and multi-million dollar hotel investments, we have been able to increase the offer and the potential of the country, which is now top destination in the Caribbean.

What are your plans for the coming years?In 2020, we want to intensify our activities. This means we want to increase our presence in Poland with a greater num-

ber of marketing activities and even better collaboration with various entities in the industry.

Which places would you particularly recommend in the Dominican Republic for different seasons of the year?One of the most important advantages of the Dominican Re-public is the relatively stable climate on the island all year ro-und. That means you can enjoy here summer for 12 months. Although the Dominican Republic is a small country, all its

areas have their own special charm and offer tourists a number of attractions. I particular-ly recommend Constanza and the Dominican Alps. The country's cold highlands lie 80 ki-lometres from the tropical heat of Santo Do-mingo. The central region, dominated by the impressive Cordillera Central, the mountain range that forms the backbone of the island, is a paradise for lovers of protected nature in national parks. The mild climate is ideal for growing strawberries.

Puerto Plata is located between the beautiful Atlantic Ocean and the impressive Pico Isabel

de Torres. Its origins date back to 1495, but in the 1970s this once sleepy province was revived by

the rapid development of tourism. It’s worth taking a trip through the picturesque centre of Puerto Plata with

Dominican Republic for Every Season

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MARZENA MRÓZ talks with LE IL A BOASIER Budecker, the Director of the Dominican Republic Tourism Board for Poland, Central and Eastern Europe

Today, the Dominican Republic is visited annually by about 40,000 Poles and this number increases every year.

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its unique architecture, museums and restaurants. The climatic streets of the city remember the period when tobacco production flourished in the area. This is the best place to enjoy the atmosphere of the golden 19th century. The province is also home to the unique town of Cabarete, conside-

red the best spot in the whole of Caribbean to practise wind-

surfing and other water sports.You might also want to visit

Santo Domingo, which in addition to its famous colonial zone, is a true me-

tropolis with a population of over three million people. The city was built on the area bordered by the coast and the Rio Isabela River, and now is a fascinating mix of scenic alleys dating back to the 19th-century, and modern shopping districts.

Don’t forget about our picture-perfect beaches, especially the beautiful Costa del Coco, which is protected by reefs and is known for incredibly white sand. Its calm waters make it an undisputed tourist mecca. About 64 kilometres of unin-terrupted beaches in the southeastern Dominican Republic, endless views of the sea, sand and coconut trees are the bac-kdrop for intimate hotels and luxury villas. The construction boom that can be observed here since 1980s, has led to the development of large, autonomous tourist cities on the is-land, rising along its shores. If you want to escape from the luxury of a hotel, you will discover here a number spectacular beaches - some tranquil and untouched - stretching as far as the eye can see.

Thank you for the interview.

One of the most important advantages of the Dominican Republic is the relatively stable climate on the island all year round.

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Reklama rozkladowka BT.indd 2 30.06.2018 08:21 Reklama rozkladowka BT.indd 3 30.06.2018 08:21


SKIING IN DAVOS


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T E K S T R O S E D Y K I N S

It's the highest located town in Europe, the oldest health resort in

Switzerland, and the annual venue of the World Economic Forum, as well as a famous ski resort. This winter Davos

has a lot to offer.

The easiest way to get to Davos is by train. First you take a SWISS plane from Warsaw to Zurich, and then buy the so-called Swiss Pass to full enjoy the offer of the Swiss Travel system. The pass is a ticket which entitles you to travel for a month, for a specified number of days aboard Swiss trains and more.

THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS BY TRAINThe tickets are valid on most private railways, ships, mail buses, and means of public transport in nearly 40 cities.

They also provide a 50% di-scount on most mountain rail-ways and free access to almost all museums. You can also buy the Swiss Pass card whi-le you are still in Poland. Just go online to www.swisstravel-system.pl.

Travelling with Swiss Ra-ilways is a pure pleasure. It's by far the best, the fastest and most convenient way to explo-re this mountainous country.

When you get on the Swiss tra-in, you can always be sure that

you will reach your destination on time, and the trip will be extremely

comfortable, with lots of stunning views on the way. The train reaches all major mu-

nicipalities – including those in the high mountains. As you can see, the Swiss rails can reach any height, and the number of tunnels, viaducts and traverses they pass thro-ugh, for example on the way to Davos - is truly impressive.

ALPINE VIEWSTravelling by train from Zurich to Davos, we cross me-dium-sized mountains on the shores of picturesque Zu-richsee and Walnesse lakes to then reach Landquart, where we get into a narrow-gauge line of the legendary Rhaetian Railwich. The serve the most mountainous region of the co-untry called Graubunden, which stretches from Klosters to

It’s a real paradise for skiers, with snow covering the slopes from early December to May.

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St. Morits situated in the Upper Engadine Valley. While up to Klosters the railway line ascends relatively gently, the Klosters-Davos stretch means climbing up 400 metres over a distance of a few kilometres between 1,200 and 1,600 metres above sea level! And the views from the windows of the train are simply second to none. One of them is the beautiful Lake Davos, which borders with the northern Davos-Dorf district. In summer glitters in the sun like tho-usands of diamonds, while in winter it freezes completely.

A RESORT WITH HISTORYDavos is the highest town in Europe (1,560 m above sea level). The lowest point within the city limits is Brombenz (1,260 m), and the highest - the Fluela-Schwarzhorn rid-ge (3,146 m). The town has only 13,000 inhabitants, but along with the nearby Klosters (the favourite ski destina-tion of the British royal family), it offers nearly 20,000 hotel rooms of various accommodation standarts. Davos Klosters is one of the birthplaces of winter sports in Switzerland and a few years ago celebrated its 150th birthday.

Its fame began in 1869 when the first Kuranstalt Spen-gler-Halsboer sanatorium was built here. Several years later the first line of Rhaetian Railway from Klosters to Davos was launched, which popularized this beautiful but once li-terally unavailable place. Famous visitors Probably the most famous guest, who made the place known to the world, was

Thomas Mann who set the action of his novel The Magic Mountain in Davos, as he would often come here to visit his wife Katia who was suffering from a lung complaint. The site of the former santorium is now occupied by Waldhotel hotel, but the Am Stein where Mann stayed is still there.

MODERN AND SWISHToday Davos is a small, chic town with excellent hotels, fan-cy restaurants, interesting atmosphere, perfectly prepared slopes, a modern congress centre, which is the venue for the

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FROM LEFT: Snow-covered slopes in Davos; the town in winter

annual World Economic Forum, as well as the museum of Ernst Ludwig Kirchner with the world’s largest collection of works by this German graphic artist and expressionist painter.

The resort stretches between two railway stations. Davos Dorf is more Alpine, while Davos Platz is a congress centre with modern architecture. Its buildings are mostly built of concrete, glass, and wood, though there is also a number of stylish 19th-century houses with wooden shutters, balco-nies, and porches.

ALL FOR SKIERSIt’s a real paradise for skiers, with snow covering the slopes from early December to May, and Davos has four ski sta-tions: the two smaller ones (Madrisa and Pischa) for child-ren, as well as two larger ones (Jakobshorn and Parsenn), with lots of lifts and pistes of varying difficulty (in total about 300 km). All of them are accessible with just one ski pass. The centre of Davos is home to lower stations of two funiculars: Parsennbahn carries skiers to the top of Parsenn mountain, while a private tram takes you to Schatzalp – a charming place with a former sanatorium (now converted into a luxury hotel), which was described by Thomas Mann in The Magic Mountain. The most popular mountain in Davos is Parsenn. You can get off the funicular at Hohen-weg through station (2,219 m), and then take Rapid chair

lift, or a tram at the uppers section of Parsennbahn. There are plenty of pistes there, suited to everyone’s needs and skills. It’s also worth noting, that until Christmas the ski pass for all the slopes in the area is available free of charge.

ON THE SLOPE AT SUNRISEDavos is also home to Swiss Institute for Snow and Avalan-che Research, which deals with research and scientific servi-ces in the fields of snow, natural hazards, alpine habitats, and integrated risk management. Between the lift and the funicular there is a long red ski run for adrenaline seekers. Nearby you can also see herds of ibex, while down below there is Davosersee and the surrounding three thousanders - Pischahorn, Flüela Wisshorn, and Flüela Schwartzhorn. A great experience and a fantastic adventure for real ski aficionado is taking the first morning train to Parsenn to be able to get down the slope at sunrise. First, however, make sure that this option is available on a given day, and if it is, you need to book it beforehand.

Across town, near the Davos Platz, the funicular whisks skiers to Jakobshorn. With its fantastic snow park and nu-merous off-piste opportunities, it’s a perfect place for snow-boarders. Traditional skiers can also enjoy here several pistes of varying difficulty. And for cross-country skiers there are 75 kilometres of well-marked trails along the town and in the nearby valleys of Flüela, Dischma, and Sertig. n

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Seeking comfort and luxury, Polish tourists usually opt for top resorts in the Tyrolean or Italian Alps when planning their annual ski holiday. Hardly do they know that the regions of Pyhrn-Priel and Hinterstoder that lie close to the Polish border, can be an equally good choice, confirming the old truth that “small is beautiful”.

W O R D S F I L I P G A W R Y Ś

In winter, many Poles travel more than 1200 ki-lometres by car for their dream holiday in the Alps. However, attracted by the highest peaks and following the herd instinct, they don’t reali-ze that what they may need is almost at hand’s reach. I’m talking here about the smaller ski re-sorts of Styria, Carinthia and Upper Austria. And

let’s put it straight: smaller doesn't mean worse. Tho-se resorts aren’t only located closer, but they are also considerably cheaper and offer similar conditions and attractions to what you may find in Tirol or Salzburg.One of them is the Pyhrn-Priel region situated in Upper Austria, with two perfectly connected resorts: Hinterstoder-Höss and Wurzeralm-Spittal am Pyhrn. Getting there from Warsaw takes nine hours (about 950 kilometres), while from Katowice less than six (600 kilometres).

In addition, both resorts are very close to the A9 motorway connecting Linz-Graz, so you don’t have to worrying about driving several dozen kilometres on winding mountain roads.

HINTERSTODER-HÖSSHinterstoder-Höss is undoubtedly the most attractive resort in the Pyhrn-Priel region. It stretches beyond Hinterstoder and offers 40 kilometres of pistes of va-rious difficulty levels: 12 kilometres for beginners, as well 18km and 10km of red and black pistes respec-tively.

The ski areas are located at an altitude of 1858 me-tres asl, up to the peak of Hutterer Höss. You can get there by cable car. Even higher (2000 metres) is the peak of Schafkogel mountain offering several mild ski runs served by two T-bar lifts. From the top you can admire the majestic panorama of the Alps.

The centre of the resort is located on a wide plateau at an altitude of 1400 metres. It’s conveniently served by cable cars from Hinterstoder, and it also acts as the lower terminus for all ski lifts, including another cable car, six T-bars, a six-seater and a two-seater chair lifts

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But Hinterstoder is not only popular with Alpine skiing aficionado, but also fans of ski mountaineering.

taking skiers up to the top of Hutterer Höss with two out-standing black pistes.

The longest ski slope, called Gammeringabfahrt, is 4.5km long with a difference in altitude of 800 metres. The most difficult one is, in turn, the FIS-certified (for slalom and giant slalom) 2A piste that stretches over 3.5km. In 2016, the place hosted men's giant and super-giant slalom races as part of FIS World Cup. It’s also one of the most favourite training grounds for the former Super-G and do-wnhill world cup winner Hannes Trinkl.

But Hinterstoder is not only popular with Alpine skiing aficionado, but also fans of ski mountaineering, mainly thanks to favourable terrain around the surrounding peaks. There are more than 20 of such trails, ranging from 5 to over 20 kilometres in length. Less experienced skiers can hire here an experienced mountain guide to show them the way around the area.

WURZERALM-SPITAL AM PYHRNThe second most attractive ski resort in Pyhrn-Priel region is Wurzeralm, located almost 30 kilometres from Hinter-stoder and stretching between 800 and 1870 metres above sea level. You can get to the centre of the resort by a unique monorail funicular train travelling on suspended railway and trough several tunnels. This Europe’s fastest funicular takes skiers to their destination in just seven minutes.

Wurzeralm offers 22 kilometres of well--prepared slopes and 7 ski lifts. Definitely the most attractive is the Frauenkar (1870 metres) offering two difficult variations of red piste no. 3, as well as equally challen-ging black piste 3A. There is also some-thing for ski mountaineering aficionado, too - especially the deep corrie between the Totenmann and Frauenkar peaks.

And although experienced skiers won’t get bored in Wurzeralm , it’s also a known family resort, with many trails and a rich in-

frastructure for the youngest, including the popular Sunny Kids Park.

NOT ONLY SKIINGThe Pyhrn-Priel region also boasts an interesting

après-ski offer. This includes an illuminated toboggan run (for evening fun), as well as a number of hiking trails, which are regularly groomed. You can also try your hand at curling, which is a bit brushing the ice with a broom.

In Windischgarsten you can take part in a snowshoe hike around the Kalkalpen National Park and the Pyhrn-Priel area. It’s also worth visiting the Dom am Pyhrn - a Ba-roque cathedral church, as well as a Gothic church carved in the rock of St. Leonhard. n

The Pyhrn-Priel region also boasts an interesting après-ski offer.


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D E S I G N

W O R D S B E C K Y A M B U R Y

Germany’s Bauhaus art school shaped the world we live in. To mark its centenary, we select some of the top exhibitions and galleries devoted to the movement

One hundred years ago, in April 2019, the Staatliches Bauhaus art school was founded by architect Walter Gropius in Weimar, Germany. At first glance, its spirit of experimentation and regrowth seems out of kilter with that era – Ger-many was a country broken by the First

World War, which had ended only five months previously. Yet 1919 was also a year of progress, with the birth of democracy in the country and suffrage for women.

From the ruins of the conservative German Empi-re arose a liberal spirit and a taste for cultural experi-mentation. The shoots of modernism had begun to be seen towards the end of the previous century and the radical idea of unifying form and function, as promo-ted by 19th-century English designer William Morris, had gained global traction. Likewise, the Bauhaus school was to train its pupils in the total work of art, or ge-samtkunstwerk, fusing craft, design and fine arts, and bringing technology into the mix.

Bauhaus’s minimal lines, geometrical forms and re-stricted colour palette went on to shape 20th-century design. The school can count such figures as Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Anni Albers and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe among its teachers, students and directors. From furniture and architecture to industrial design and typography, Bauhaus left few elements of the creative world untouched.

During its brief 14 years of operation, the school had three locations in Germany – Weimar until 1925, Des-sau from 1925 to 1932 and Berlin until 1933 – and three directors, all architects: Gropius, Hannes Meyer and Mies van der Rohe. In 1933, the rise of the Nazi re-gime led to its demise, yet rather than stifle the spirit of Bauhaus, its influence was carried further afield as mem-bers fled the fascist state – hence the wealth of Bauhaus architecture in cities such as Tel Aviv and Chicago (see overleaf).

Along with the much-anticipated opening this month of the Bauhaus Museum Dessau, built for the centena-

B U I L D I N G T H E F U T U R E

THIS PICTURE: The new Masters’ Houses at the Bauhaus Building in Dessau ABOVE: Eberhardt Schrammen’s Five Hand Puppets (1923), on show in Weimar

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ry year, there are still some excellent exhibitions to catch both in the UK and Germany – here are a few to look out for.

DESSAUBauhaus Museum DessauHome to the world’s second-largest Bauhaus collection – the biggest is in Berlin – this striking building in Dessau (an hour’s drive from Leipzig) is almost as compelling as the exhibits it was created for. The open and flexible architecture embodies the Bauhaus spirit and aims to draw in aficionados and serve as a cultural hub in the city centre. The Black Box on the first floor will house architecture, furniture, lighting, textiles, wallpaper and typefaces, all of which reflect the debt owed by contemporary design to the movement. Opens on September 8; adults €8.50. bauhaus-dessau.de

WEIMARBauhaus MuseumWeimar (one hour 45 minutes by car from Leipzig) is the bir-thplace of Bauhaus and, accordingly, has its oldest collection. You can admire it in the city’s new museum, which opened

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Bauhaus Archiv Berlin; Marcel Breuer’s Wassily armchair (1925), on show in Weimar; the Bauhaus Building, Dessau; Franz Ehrlich’s Material Relief (1927), on display in Dessau

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in April with its permanent exhibition aptly named “The Bauhaus Comes from Weimar”. Works include the re-nowned table lamp by Wilhelm Wagenfeld and Carl Ja-kob Jucker, furniture by Mies van der Rohe and artworks by Klee, Laszlo Moholy-Nagy and Lyonel Feininger. En-try €11. klassik-stiftung.de

BERLIN“Original Bauhaus”This well-structured exhibition presents 14 key pieces from the history of Bauhaus, describing the story behind each one and how the creator fused technology and art. Bauhaus-Archiv, Museum fur Gestaltung (the museum’s temporary home is at the Berlinische Galerie in Charlot-tenburg while renovations take place); until January 27; entry €12. bauhaus.de

LONDON“Beyond Bauhaus: Modernism in Britain 1933-66”Three of the movement’s leading figures, Gropius, Marcel Breuer and Moholy-Nagy, came to live and work in the UK during the 1930s; this exhibition will explore their impact on architecture in Brita-in. Talks, screenings and workshops will also take place. RIBA Architecture Gallery, Portland Place; October 1-February 1; free entry. architecture.com

NOTTINGHAM“Still Undead: Pop Culture in Britain Beyond the Bauhaus”What do Habitat founder Sir Terence Conran, perfor-mance artist Leigh Bowery and hairdresser Vidal Sas-soon have in common? They all took inspiration from Bauhaus, according to this diverse exhibition spanning the 1920s to the 1980s. It kicks off with a colourful light installation by student Kurt Schwerdtfeger before exami-ning the school’s impact on electronic music, club culture and mod fashion. Part of Bauhaus Imaginista, a project exploring the school’s global reach, other exhibitions are taking place in Hangzhou, New York and Moscow. Not-tingham Contemporary; September 21-January 12; free entry. nottinghamcontemporary.org, bauhaus-imagini-sta.org

Visit bauhaus100.com for more information.

BAUHAUS BEYOND GERMANYThe modernist movement has two surprising outposts…

TEL AVIVIt may come as a surprise to learn that the Israeli city has the largest collection of Bauhaus buildings (above) in the world, the result of the emigration of German Jewish architects following the rise of the Nazis. Now a Unesco World Heritage site, the 4,000-plus buildings of Tel Aviv’s White City can be taken in on a guided two-hour walking tour (80 shekels/£18) from Bauhaus Centre Tel Aviv, which also has a free perma-nent exhibition. bauhaus-center.com

CHICAGOWhen Chicago’s industrial leaders wanted to boost the city’s profile, they turned to Bauhaus for inspiration. Hungarian émigré Moholy--Nagy, one of the movement’s original teachers, was drafted in and the New Bauhaus school was created in 1937. While it only lasted a year, its influence had greater longevity. Mies van der Rohe was also drawn to the city and designed several buildings on the Illinois Institute of Tech-nology campus. Architectural highlights downtown include his Kluczynski Federal Building, Dirksen Federal Building and AMA Plaza at 330 North Wabash; the last of these is home to the Langham hotel. chicagobauhausbeyond.org

FROM TOP: Bauhaus Museum Weimar; Peter Keler’s Cradle (1922), on display in Weimar; prototype of Alfred Schafter’s Pendant Light (1931/2), in Dessau; Breuer’s Four-Piece Set Tables B9 (1925-6), on display in Weimar

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S E R V I C E D A PA R T M E N T S

A focus on fresh design is helping the serviced

apartment sector to flourish

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W O R D S H A N N A H B R A N D L E R

‘The consumer’s eyes have been opened to the concept of living like a local and enjoying their own space’

MILLENNIAL POWERProviders have a keen eye on the mil-

lennial market in particular, a wise move given the World Data Lab’s prediction that their global spending power will be greater than any other generation over the next 15 to 20 years. Savills’ 2018 Spo-tlight: European Extended Stay Market report highlighted that this group would make up 75 per cent of the global work-force by 2025.

Co-working spaces, dining options and gyms are being incorporated into many

properties. Sophie Perret, senior director of hotel consultancy HVS, says: “It’s an inno-

vative sector, with alternative concepts such as co-living, co-working, student accommodation

and home-sharing merging with the serviced apart-ment model, creating hybrids that respond to changing

demands. Guests travelling alone can access the benefits of a shared business environment and a sense of community.”

In London, for example, Bermonds Locke on To-wer Bridge Road will feature a coffee shop, cocktail bar, co-working space, two meeting rooms and a gym when it opens in the second quarter of next year.

Personalisation is on the rise, with the Global Serviced Apartments Industry Report 2018-19 finding a desire for open-plan lobby areas rather than traditional reception de-sks, along with social evenings. Cuckooz Bloomsbury (see overleaf) even provides a guide to the area with recommen-dations. “We are finding that the consumer’s eyes have been opened to the concept of ‘living like a local’, catering for themselves and enjoying the flexibility of coming and going in their own space,” Foice says.

Likewise, digitalisation is a buzzword in the industry. Foice says that the ASAP has “always had members who started the technology rush in terms of keyless entry, apps that run every element of a room from blinds to entertainment, and environmental advances in construction and energy saving”.

Other examples include touch panels for controlling room functionality, as seen in Wilde Aparthotels, while check-in for Stow-Away Waterloo is via an app. A text informs you that your room is ready and provides access codes; your smartphone then functions as your room key.

The Airbnb effectAirbnb continues to create waves in the industry. The

platform is a major source of competition to apartment pro-viders, appealing to leisure customers with its private rental homes, and targeting corporates with Airbnb for Work. Not surprisingly, there has been a backlash. Foice says: “Investors snapping up housing stock primarily to let to short-term renters has pushed up prices and forced many locals out of their own area.”

While there’s no place like home, serviced apartments come close. Comfort, the ability to cook for yourself and flexibility in terms of length of stay – not to mention reasonable prices – make this sty-le of living particularly tempting

to regular travellers. The sector is thriving, somewhat thanks to a shift to-

wards more inviting design-led properties. The UK is a prime market, representing a third of European expansion; more than 7,500 apartments are planned for the next four years, mainly in London, Manchester, Edinburgh and Cam-bridge.

The “bleisure” trend continues, with business travellers adding a weekend to their trips or bringing family – options for which serviced apartments are particularly suited. Alon-gside this is a rise in overseas leisure visitors thanks to the weaker pound. Providers are introducing lifestyle-orienta-ted sub-brands to attract both types of consumer.

Saco’s design-focused Locke aparthotels, for instance, bring chic living to London, Manchester and Edinburgh, while Wilde Aparthotels by Staycity – named after Oscar Wilde and “designed to entice and amuse” – made its debut in Covent Garden in March last year. James Foice, chief executive of the Association of Serviced Apartment Provi-ders (ASAP), says: “As ours is a young, nimble sector, we can be very design- and technology-led.”

THIS PAGE: Staycity’s Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden



Hotel chains are feeling the pressure, too, and are facing the threat head-on by introducing their own home-stay brands. Accor was early to the table, acquiring London-ba-sed luxury serviced home provider Onefinestay in 2016, while its joint-venture partnership with Pierre and Vacances Centre Parcs led to the creation of Adagio Aparthotels in 2007. The latter is set to double its portfolio to 220 proper-ties by 2023. In April last year, Marriott International laun-ched its Tribute Portfolio Homes platform in London with UK-based home rental firm Hostmaker. It has since expan-ded to Paris, Rome and Lisbon, with more than 340 proper-ties across these cities.

STRENGTH IN NUMBERSSo what’s next for serviced apartments? Obstacles remain; big hotel chains have better visibility as they can use their marketing force to spread word of spin-off brands. The Glo-bal Serviced Apartments Industry Report notes that while brands such as Saco are well known in the UK, they do not have a huge global presence, leading multinationals to cho-ose bigger names such as Accor or Marriott.

Still, don’t take this to mean that apartment operators are falling behind. HVS’s latest report, The Serviced Apartment Sector in Europe: Poised to Outperform, shows that RevPAR growth (revenue per available room) for serviced apartments has outperformed that of traditional hotels, with a 3.5 per cent growth improvement in the UK last year compared with 1.5 per cent for hotels; London saw 4 per cent growth (with hotels at 3 per cent).

Foice says: “Trends show both revenue and occupancy rising, especially in London but also across gateway cities

UK-wide.” In June, Staycity reported that it would recruit 200 additional staff to cope with the number of openings in the latter half of this year. With that in mind, here are some new and forthcoming UK properties to look out for.

LONDONWEYMOUTH MEWS These luxury serviced apartments from Living Rooms ope-ned in Marylebone in June. Housed in a Grade II listed industrial building, the seven units start from 57 sqm and are a mixture of one-, two- and three-beds. Offering plen-ty of natural light, many have outdoor living areas. In-teriors feature exposed brickwork, designer furniture and commissioned artworks. Each has an iPad loaded with a neighbourhood guide, and a record player. There’s also a 24-hour phone concierge, bikes to borrow and access to local gyms. living-rooms.co.uk/weymouth-mews

CUCKOOZ BLOOMSBURY London brand Cuckooz launched in 2016 and opened its eighth property in Bloomsbury in March. The six studios and one-bed apartments are set in a converted Georgian townhouse, with plush interiors designed by Kelly Jack-son – expect exposed brick walls, sash windows, original beams and bespoke furnishings. All have kitchens or kit-chenettes, Netflix and Apple TV, and underfloor heating. Studios start from 14 sqm, while one-beds have a separate living area. There’s a three-night minimum stay, which may be extended during busy periods. Guests get free access to Cuckooz Nest, the brand’s co-working space in Farringdon. cuckooz.co.uk

STOW-AWAY WATERLOOEco-friendly newcomer Stow-Away plans to have 600-plus units across Europe by 2024. This 20-unit aparthotel opened in November last year in Waterloo. Housed in 26 repurposed shipping containers, its roof is covered in solar panels, whi-

FROM TOP: Weymouth Mews; Cuckooz Bloomsbury

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le Molton Brown toiletries are stocked in refillable bottles. Apartments are about 19 sqm and feature super-king beds, blackout blinds, marble bathrooms with walk-in showers, kitchenettes and smart TVs. Its restaurant, Unwined, has weekly wine tastings and guest chefs, plus an outdoor dining area. stow-away.co.uk

ADAGIO BRENTFORDAdagio opened its first London aparthotel in October last year in Brentford, a 20-minute drive from Heathrow airport. Its 100 units start from 36 sqm and are a mixture of studios and one-bed apartments, both with the option of an additio-nal sofa bed. Sleek in design, they all have wooden floors, kitchens and large balconies. The property offers a fitness suite, concierge services, meeting rooms, laundry fa-cilities and private parking. There is also a market area with a complimentary bre-akfast; drinks can be pur-chased here in the evening. adagio-city.com

LIVERPOOLQUESTAustralia-based Quest Apartment Hotels will open its first European property in Liverpool this month, managed by Cycas Hospitality. The 88-unit property is centrally loca-ted and comprises studios, one- and two-bed apartments, each with daily housekeeping (excluding Sundays). From 25 sqm, they feature smart TVs, workdesks and king-size beds. Studios have kitchenettes, while one- and two-beds have separate living/dining areas and washer-dryers. The property also has a gym, conference room and car park. questapartments.co.uk

MANCHESTERNATIVENative has more than 25 properties across the UK, inc-luding in London, Glasgow (reviewed recently at busi-nesstraveller.com/tried-and-tested), Birmingham and Le-

eds. This month it will open a 166-apartment property in Manchester set across six floors of the Grade II listed Du-cie Street Warehouse. Industrial-style interiors have been designed by David Archer (of Chiltern Firehouse fame) and include a restored glass atrium, original wrought-iron beams and Conran furniture. Apartments start at 27 sqm, and range from studios with kitchens to two-bed deluxe penthouses with roof terraces. The ground floor will be oc-cupied by the independently operated “Cultureplex”, with a restaurant, a small cinema, a coffee shop and flexible workspaces. nativeplaces.com

EDINBURGHABBEY STRAND APARTMENTS AT HOLYROOD Opening on Novem-ber 1, this collection of nine apartments is the fourth property from Edinburgh’s Lateral City. Located on the doorstep of the Palace of Holyro-odhouse, the 16th-centu-ry buildings once housed Mary Queen of Scots’ co-urtiers. Overlooking Ar-thur’s Seat and a new pu-

blic physic garden, the studio, one- and two-bed units start from 32 sqm and have medieval fireplaces and stone walls. l ateralcity.com

WILDE APARTHOTELS BY STAYCITY, GRASSMARKET The second Wilde aparthotel from Dublin-based ope-rator Staycity is due to open in November this year on King’s Stables Road in the city centre. The property will form part of a mixed-use development featuring residen-tial and commercial units as well as student accommodation. A medieval wall will be incorporated into its design, a vestige of the jousting tournaments that once took place here. The 123 apartments (the sizes are yet to be finalised) will featu-re kitchens, rainshowers, oak flooring and touch-control pa-nels for the lighting, air conditioning, tower rails and blinds. There will also be a lounge, café and gym. staycity.com/wilde

BELFAST DREAM PODSBelfast-based provider Dream Apartments launched this budget concept in Bank Square in July. The 19 minimalist “pods” start from 16 sqm and come in four categories – stan-dard, superior, bunk bed and quad pod. They each offer ho-usekeeping and concierge services, and custom-made furni-ture by local company Balmoral Furniture. All have power showers and 42-inch smart TVs. There is also a ground-floor restaurant. dreamapartments.co.uk

FROM TOP: Native Manchester; Stow-Away Waterloo; Quest Liverpool

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H E A L T H

W O R D S T O M O T L E YA health assessment leads to a lifestyle reassessment for BT’s editorial director

it’s available, you may be able to get a basic health check free of charge, but even in those places, it presupposes that your itinerary can fit in with the hours the doctor or nurse is available.

In my case, it means I never get around to going unless I feel very unwell, which thankfully isn’t very often. An al-ternative is to pay for the appointment and schedule a time that suits you, although relying on a short-haul flight from Europe to get there is probably not a good idea.

The advantage of having a health assessment is that it flags up any potential problems and then these can be investiga-ted, if needs be, by further tests. My assessment at the Bupa Cromwell Hospital included a long talk with a doctor about my general health, allowing the opportunity to discuss any-thing of concern; a full battery of tests, including blood and urine, with most of the results being returned in only a few minutes, spirometry to measure my lung function, and a re-sting ECG test; and an appointment with a dietitian. This last one gave me the chance to ask whether it was true that eating lots of red meat and drinking alcohol could increase

It wasn’t the best preparation for a health assess-ment. Having attended the reopening and re-branding of the Radisson Blu Frankfurt, I woke at 5am to make the 7.20am departure back from Germany. There was then a delay caused by air-port congestion, not at Frankfurt Hahn but at Heathrow. Too many aircraft trying to land on

those two runways. I had a slight tightening in my chest and frequent glances at the schedule on my phone to wonder if my 9.30am appointment at Cromwell Hospital in London’s Kensington was still possible.

We landed ten minutes late and, with hand baggage only, I ran out of Terminal 5 to catch a Piccadilly Line train. It was rush hour but there were plenty of seats, at least for the first few stops. Approaching town, I was joined by a mother and a small boy, around two years old, who smiled a lot and wiped his fingers on my suit trousers. I was only five minutes late for my appointment, and within 30 minutes was having my blood pressure taken. The result would be a true reflection of my health; at least it would reflect an average day.

TESTING TIMESBupa Cromwell Hospital, or rather the quiet cobbled mews alongside it where health assessments take place, has new fa-cilities. They are reassuringly white without being overly me-dicalised – more heaven than hospital – and reception staff smile and are helpful in stowing luggage somewhere safe so that for the first time in 36 hours I could stop dragging it around behind me.

After a brief opportunity to catch my breath, answer 25 emails, read the business pages of the Telegraph and plan the presentation I was giving that afternoon, I was straight in to see the GP to have a chat and have some basic tests done (blood pressure and, ahem, prostate). I then crossed the corridor to a nurse who took various blood samples. I told her I would look away as the needle went in. She was very reassuring. “Don’t worry. All men are cowards,” she said.

Whether male or female, we all know we should take care of ourselves but still don’t go to the doctor often enough to find out just how we are doing. If you live in a country where

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BELOW: The Bupa Cromwell Hospital in Kensington, London

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your chance of getting cancer. Unfortunately, the short an-swer is yes.

Most organisations will offer several different levels of te-sting. The Cromwell has an Executive Health Assessment (the one I did), but also – for about ten times the cost – the Premier, which includes X-ray, MRI scan and carotid doppler ultrasound (artery plaque) tests, among others. Both assess-ments can also be bespoke, and if anything is discovered in the initial testing, the doctor will then recommend further investigation as appropriate.

For me, the Executive took less than three hours and then I could be on my way, once more dragging my bags, first to the office and then to an event early in the afternoon to de-liver my presentation. Within seven days I had a full written report emailed to me that summarised the results. They were broadly okay, although I need to lose weight (not much), sort out my high cholesterol (that’s the end of cheese for me), and avoid the sun (but not to the extent of becoming a vampire).

SURPRISING RESULTSA few weeks later, for the purpose of comparison, I under-went an assessment with a Bupa Health Clinic, which offers a set of standardised tests slightly different from those offered at the Cromwell, and which are more commonly offered as part of corporate health screening. These tests are lifestyle based and include some exercise testing and height and we-ight measurements as well as blood and urine tests (I opted out of another prostate examination. You can have too much of a good thing.)

The Bupa website has a checklist so you can decide which programme is most suitable for you, ranging from the “li-ghtest” (and least expensive) Core Health through to Focus, Enhance and the Peak Health Check. As Bupa says: “A he-alth assessment is more than a check-up. It can be the start of a journey towards better health.”

The Peak assessment I tried was both similar to that of the Cromwell Hospital and very different. The Peak tests included a fitness one on an exercise bike, a grip test and a hearing check. The last of these was useful since everyone in my family says I am deaf. I now know that I am not, so there must be another reason why I can’t hear them.

There are 50-plus Bupa health centres thro-ughout the UK, with the ones closest to whe-re I live being Milton Keynes, Cambridge and Harpenden, although I chose a London location (Wigmore Street) since it was close to work. Alongside the tests, I found the main benefit to be having up to 60 minutes with a doctor (a GP who also works in the NHS) who was not rushed and with whom you co-uld discuss various matters without feeling guilty about the 20 people outside the door waiting for their ten-minute slot.

At her suggestion, there was a quick check for any worrying-looking moles (I’ve been

travelling to hot countries for more than 30 years, and didn’t always do much to stay out of

the sun), and we discussed cholesterol and weight issues in further detail. The fitness test also surprised me, in that it told me

I’m not nearly as fit as I thought. I suspect many others might find the same. Apparently, the odd game of golf and an occasional swim doesn’t get you there. The advice is to exercise in some form every day – a brisk walk, for example – and have moderate to exhaustive exercise at least a couple of times a week.

Again, all of these results were emailed to me a few days later, and in addition are available on the Bupa site, password protected, and ready to provide information for the next he-alth check in one or five years’ time.

The fitness test also surprised me, in that it told me I’m not nearly as fit as I thought

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What was interesting was that despite me feeling there was no way I could change how I ran at my advanced age (50), I was quite wrong. The video showed that my stride was too long, meaning I was doing a “heel strike” as I ran, which not only slowed me down but also caused extra stress to my back. By increasing my cadence – the number of strides I take in a minute – the smaller steps meant my foot strike would be directly below my body, reducing the impact on my back. In addition, as I ran, my arms were coming across my body, which was inefficient, and one foot was straying towards the middle line, which again is not good, and explained why occasionally one foot would graze against the other as I ran.

With this analysis (which was also emailed to me) in hand, I left determined to run more regularly, and also run in a different way – and so it has proved, which is a real life-enhancing development. It was simply excellent, and only took an hour to change the next thousand-plus hours of my running.

HCA runs private hospitals in London, so as well as the Running MOT Clinic I had at London Bridge, you could try Mole Mapping at the Lister Hospital, use the ENT (ear, nose and throat) service at the London Digestive Centre, perfect for those of you who keep me awake snoring on lon-g-haul flights, or have a fibroscan – which tests liver func-tion – at the Princess Grace Hospital (among other tests).

Depending on family history, there may be other tests you want to consider. I’m wary of joining the ranks of the “worried well”, but then, compared with being the “unwor-ried unwell”, I know which I’d choose. n

RUN WITH ITIn the meantime, I was determined to change my lifestyle, something that is fairly common after an assessment, accor-ding to Bupa. Its surveys showed that 80 per cent of custo-mers changed their habits either a little or a lot; that 63 per cent felt better able to deal with stress; and 58 per cent im-proved their sleep.

So the moment I woke up the next day, I wondered what exercise to take. For me, the choice was easy – run-ning. I’m not much good, but I do enjoy it. It’s cheap, which is appealing, since I’m from Yorkshire; you can take it at your own pace; and it doesn’t require much in the way of equipment. What’s more, you can do it in most of the places you travel to, so it’s a good way of exploring where you happen to be, and if you’ve got a rubbish sense of direction, like me, you get even more exercise, as you get lost and then have to find your way back to your hotel.

Unfortunately, with a bad back, I’ve had to cut down on running, but I still want to enjoy it, which is why I found myself having one more assessment – a running gait analysis at HCA Healthcare UK London Bridge hospital.

This was taken by a physiotherapist, who first of all took me though a questionnaire, then walked me to a gym so she could see my range of movement. Lastly, I went on a running machine and she videoed my running gait from the front, side and behind. She then analysed it for me, and gave me some useful strengthening exercises for my glutes and calves when it turned out from the tests that these parts of me were especially weak.

BELOW: Running MOT Clinic at HCA Healthcare UK London Bridge Hospital


F R A G R A N C E S

A growing number of brands are releasing fine fragrances

in travel-friendly sizes

One wish consistently made by perfume devotees – the sort who need entire war-drobes to store their collections – is that more brands should release their wares in smaller bottles.

Historically, reasons related to econo-mies of scale have caused fragrance ho-

uses to shy away from products below 50ml. But in recent years, thanks in part to hand-luggage restrictions, several companies have added compact formats to collections.

Nick Steward, founder of Gallivant, believes the trend ties into a more general move away from the notion of owning just one “signature” scent. “It’s a recognition that times have moved on – people want to experiment and have a small war-drobe of fragrances for different moods, different moments,” he says. “It does also make perfume a more appropriate gift – it lessens the risk.”

The result of this shift means that today’s travellers can choose from a substantial range of perfumes that don’t have to go into their hold luggage. What’s more, they aren’t too heavy to carry and won’t take up excessive space on the shelf of a hotel bathroom. Here are four travel-friendly recommendations.

FOUR BIJOU SCENTSACQUA DI PARMAAlthough most of the Italian brand’s scents are available in smaller formats, the Collezione set (£111) is worth singling out, as it contains three 30ml bottles of your choice from the bracing, outdoorsy Blu Mediterraneo range. With its contrast of sugary and citrus notes, a combo of Chinotto di Liguria, Arancia di Capri and the re-released Cipresso di Toscana would work very well. acquadiparma.com

GALLIVANTIn keeping with the London-based perfume-maker’s globetrotting ethos, all of its fragrances come only in 30ml bottles (£65 each). Amster-dam is particularly evocative, mixing pepper and saffron with cedar and a curious, compelling tulip note. gallivant-perfumes.com

WIDE SOCIETYDesigned specifically with travellers in mind, this new French brand offers an Escapade set of three 10ml bottles (€45) and a Weekender collection of six 10ml bottles (€90). Check out Up in the Air, an intoxicating concoction of rum, saffron and birch tar. widesociety.com

NASOMATTOAlthough this Amsterdam company’s compositions have always been released in relatively small bottles, they have recently emerged in an even more compact form – a set of three 4ml perfume oils (£138). It’s perhaps the most potent way yet in which to experience cult favourite Black Afgano – a distinctive take smoky resins.nasomatto.com

IN THE BAG

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The phrase “sports watch” is a fun-ny thing. To a lot of people, it no doubt me-ans something rubberised and

digital – made by Garmin or Ap-ple, perhaps – that can track your biometrics and deliver sharp elec-tric shocks when your activity drops below a certain rate. Or something like that; I’m not entirely au fait with such matters.

In contrast, to watch nerds like me, a sports watch is something that, deep in the distant past, was designed to be worn during one of the more monied athletic pursuits, like polo, scuba diving or motor racing.

Of course, even 50 years ago the sporting cre-dentials of these watches were more about marketing than the idea you or I would actually wear one to take part in a sport. But where the Swiss truly did play a fundamen-tal role is in the field of sports timing. Some of the earliest chronographs were developed to time horse races, and up until the digital age a mechanical watch was your best bet for everything from rallying to boxing.

These days, it’s assumed by some that the position of “of-ficial timekeeper” is a ceremonial one, when a brand’s me-chanical watches may only be accurate to within a few se-conds a day. But that’s not so. Swiss Timing – the Swatch

W O R D S C H R I S H A L L

Group-owned company that carries out timekeeping duties for the likes

of Omega, Longines, Blancpain and Tissot – is a cutting-edge tech firm that is constantly coming up with new ways to measure the finest margins.

It’s a legacy of the clustering of Swiss watch companies into large luxury groups that Tissot doesn’t get to shout too loudly about its pedigree in this de-partment. Under the aegis of the Swatch Group, the world’s

largest horological conglomera-te, every brand knows its place and

for a long time for Tissot that meant unthreatening – predominantly quartz –

watches priced between £200 and £500. Recently, however, a modicum of personality

has been allowed to emerge that has brought Tissot fir-mly back in touch with its sporting past. It is once again sponsor and timekeeper of the Tour de France, having been associated with the race during the late eighties and early nineties, and while other brands have had the privilege at various points, there’s something about this that just feels right.

Still, it’s on four wheels that Tissot has recently rekin-dled two interesting relationships. The first is with carma-ker Alpine – now owned by Renault – as it broke back on to the motoring scene after two decades’ absence. Tissot has been working with Alpine since 2015 via the brand’s

RACING AHEAD

The 1973 Navigator is the per fect accompaniment to Tissot’s revived motorsport connections

FROM LEFT: Tissot’s 1973 Navigator; Kessel Racing partners with Tissot; Alex Caffi drives for Kessel at the Monaco Grand Prix Historique

W A T C H E S

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ZDJĘCIE GŁÓWNE: C60 Trident Elite 1000

POWYŻEJ:C60 Trident Pro 600

endurance racing teams, but the Alpine name had been largely out of the public eye until the acclaimed relaunch of its A110 sports car last year – providing Tissot with some unexpected but welcome publicity.

Perhaps the most surprising rebirth has been Tissot’s keen revival of its partnership with Kessel Racing. Sur-prising on one level because there is no shortage of watch brands with a motorsport connection – TAG Heuer in particular – but mostly because it’s unlikely that the name Kessel will mean very much to Tissot’s typical customer. Loris Kessel only raced a handful of times in F1, never tro-ubling the top order, but he went on to found a highly successful endurance racing team as well as one of Swi-tzerland’s most prestigious supercar dealerships. Today, the Kessel Racing team (run by son Ronnie) competes at the Monaco Historic Grand Prix in restored Brabham F1 cars emblazoned with Tissot’s original sponsorship position.

Riding on this new wave of automotive celebration is Tissot’s hero piece for the year, a watch known as the 1973 Navigator. It’s a reasonably faithful recreation of a chro-nograph model originally made in that year, and hits the spot perfectly for today’s market with its barrel-shaped steel case (alternately brushed and polished nicely) and the combination of a black-and-white “panda” style dial with well-judged doses of orange on the chronograph hands. Even the drilled-out leather strap evokes the weight-sa-ving measures of classic racing. It is priced at £1,695 – near the upper end of the range for Tissot, but a pretty fair price to pay for something that looks like it could easily cost twice that. n

Tissot has been brought back in touch with its sporting past

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T R I E D A N D T E S T E D

BACKGROUND This hotel relaunched in June after a four-month closure for renovation. When it first opened in 1998 it was a breath of fresh air for London’s hotel scene, with great service, quirky design, a well-known general manager – Simon Hirst – and Gordon Cam-pbell Gray as managing director, who was involved in buying the property’s impressive art collection. Having most recently spent four years at Raffles Singapore, Hirst returned to One Aldwych as managing director for the opening.

WHAT’S IT LIKE? Back in 1998 Campbell Gray said the hotel was about “stealth we-alth rather than dripping deluxe”, and it’s the same today. It’s expensive in a tasteful way, and you could spend some time simply to-uring the property and treating it like an art gallery – there are about 350 contemporary pieces displayed throughout. From the out-side, it’s very grand – taking its name from its position on Aldwych, it was built in 1907 by Charles Mewès and Arthur Davis, responsible for the Ritz London and Ritz Paris. As you enter you’ll see two papier-mâché dogs by Justine Smith – the newest, made from old one-pound banknotes, joining the Beano dog that she created for the original opening. By recep-tion is Emily Young’s stone sculpture head of Dionysus.

One Aldwych, London

BEST FORLuxury and great service in a true

five-star boutique setting

DON’T MISSAn evening swim in the pool, followed

by a leisurely breakfast in Indigo the next morning as a reward

PRICE

Internet rates for a flexible midweek stay in October started from £605 for a

Classic room

CONTACTOne Aldwych; tel +44 (0)20 7300

1000; onealdwych.com

Exclusive to hotel guests and health club members, the Lounge at One was created in 2012. It’s a lovely, peaceful space, with a menu of light dishes, cocktails, wines and hot drinks, plus complimentary croissants, juice, fruit, tea and coffee on weekday mornings (6.30-8am).

MEETINGS Poised to open as we went to press was a 30-seat cinema available for private hire. There are also several meeting rooms, some overlooking Aldwych (all have good sound-proofing).

LEISURE Located in the basement, the health club has a good-sized, recently refitted gym with a chlorine-free pool, sauna, steam room and treatment rooms.

VERDICT This excellent update retains the qualities that regulars liked about the hotel. If you want to treat yourself, you’ve come to the right place. Tom Otley

You could spend some time simply touring the property, treating it as an art gallery

WHERE IS IT? On Aldwych, off the Strand and on the edge of Covent Garden.

ROOMS There are 102 in total (23-78 sqm) – 20 Classic, 40 Superior, 26 Deluxe and 16 suites. Robert Angell has redesigned them for what the hotel calls a “timeless, residential vibe”. They are in a colour scheme of coral, ce-ladon green, soft blue and lavender and feature British-made furniture, oak parquet floors and throws by Scottish company Skye Weavers.All have Nespresso machines, kettles, free wifi, effective air-conditioning, large Loewe TVs, Bang and Olufsen bluetooth speakers and Dy-son hairdryers. The lighting was easy to adjust and there were lots of places to charge devices, including bedside USB ports. Complimentary international newspapers and shoe shine are provided, as is water in glass bottles rather than plastic. Bathrooms have underfloor heating, while suites have TVs at the end of the bath. Most Classic and Superior rooms are shower-on-ly. Amenities are from Mitchell and Peach.

FOOD AND DRINK The Lobby Bar features high ceilings, arched windows and original panelling. Continental breakfast, light lunch, afternoon tea and evening light bites are served, and there is also a new cocktail list. Indigo restaurant, which is on the mezzanine floor overlooking the bar, is now brighter and serves a great breakfast (£32 for full English). Eneko Basque Kitchen and Bar opened in 2016 and is led by chef Eneko Atxa of three Michelin-starred Spanish restaurant Azurmen-di. It’s a difficult space to make work for a re-staurant, in a cavernous room underground, and perhaps works better in winter than su-mmer.



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BACKGROUND The Luxu-ry Collection, previously a Starwood brand and now part of Marriott Interna-tional, comprises more than 100 properties world-wide. This hotel opened in March. Marriott already has a property in the Ar-menian capital, in Repu-blic Square, as well as one in the ski resort of Tsagh-kadzor.

WHAT’S IT LIKE? The hotel has a 19th-centu-ry neoclassical façade on Abovyan Street. The interior is completely new and was created by Alexander James International at a total cost (including building works) of US$54 million. There are traditional Armenian details thro-ughout, most noticeably the vases in the pu-blic areas, which are copies of ones in the Hi-story Museum, and in the coloured geometric tiling in the lobby and lifts, intended to evoke the mountainous country around Yerevan. The marble reception desk has also been cut in a way that suggests mountains. I arrived in the early hours from Moscow and was quickly checked in, taken to my room and left alone to catch up on some sleep. The staff were ex-cellent, recommending good restaurants and helping to book day trips to the surrounding sites, which are an essential part of any trip to Armenia.

WHERE IS IT? At the foot of Abovyan Street just before it descends into Republic Square, the centre of Yerevan and the place all tourists will head to in their first few hours in the ca-pital. It’s about half an hour’s drive from the airport. The hotel also has a back entrance on to the pedestrianised shopping street of Nor-thern Avenue.

ROOMS There are 114 rooms and suites over ten floors, with the gym and pool on level 11 and the restaurant on 12. Most look out either on to Abovyan Street or neighbouring Pushkin Street, although a few overlook an internal courtyard (some of these are long-

The Alexander, A Luxury Collection Hotel, Yerevan

BEST FORLuxury in a historic city that is just opening up for tourism

DON’T MISSHaving a meal on the terrace with

views across the roofs towards Mount Ararat

PRICEInternet rates for

a flexible midweek stay in October started

from 170,000 drams (£355) for a Superior room

CONTACT3-4 Abovyan Street;

tel +374 11 206000; the-luxury-collection.marriott.com

is Italiano, the main restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. It has a bar and a terrace from where, on clear days, you can see Mount Ararat in Turkey.

MEETINGS There is almost 400 sqm of event space on the level below ground, with two of the rooms joining together to form a sort of mini ballroom. A members-only bar on the level below is occasionally used for private events.

LEISURE On floor minus three is the Alexan-der Spa by Anne Semonin. The 11th floor has a pool with views across the surrounding ro-oftops, plus a spa bath and good-sized gym.

VERDICT A luxury hotel that gives a sen-se of historic Armenia, while providing all the comforts of a top-class property. The location is hard to beat. Tom Otley

Traditional Armenian detailing is featured throughout the public areas

-stay studios with kitchens). Rooms have a modern look with geometric carpets, framed stone carvings on the walls and dark-wood wardrobes. Entry-level Superior rooms (33 sqm) have large flatscreen TVs with satellite channels, free wifi, bottled water, minibars, Nespresso machines, tea facilities, laptop safes, robes, separate baths and showers, twice-daily maid service and good soundproofing. Next up are the 38 sqm Deluxe and Deluxe Twin rooms, followed by Grand Deluxe (45 sqm) and va-rious suites.

FOOD AND DRINK Gabriel’s patisserie has its own street entrance, while Gabriel’s bar and lounge serves an all-day menu, cocktails and afternoon tea. The Library is a comfortable place to relax with a drink. On the top floor

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BACKGROUND The Ritz-Carlton Berlin ope-ned in 2004 as part of the huge rebuilding of Potsdamer Platz. It has recently re-emerged from a three-year €40 million renovation.

WHAT’S IT LIKE? You never forget the first time you see the buildings of Potsdamer Platz, with their plain façades and clean lines, a simple version of art deco that the hotel re-design has now brought inside. Occupying the first 11 floors of one of these buildings, the Ritz-Carlton has always been refined, but was looking a little dated, particularly the bars and public areas. Not any more. The GA Group has created a homely feel that nods to-wards 1920s cinema, while at the same time remaining very modern.

The old chandelier has been removed from the lobby and instead there are multiple exploding globes, designed to remind you of the pop of flashbulbs, with the glass elements of the chandelier evoking champagne flutes. There is elegant furniture in the side seating area and behind the marble staircase, while recurring geometric patterns combine with a lit sculpture at the back of the lobby that is covered in the evening, the most obvious example of the night and day theme that runs throughout the hotel. The colour palette is mainly champagne gold and chrome with to-uches of grey, although the rooms have some purple as well. Service is superb – all staff are helpful, guiding you to whatever you are se-arching for and even walking out of the hotel to give directions.

WHERE IS IT? In Potsdamer Platz, which has access to the regional rail, S-Bahn and U-Ba-hn. The main station, the Hauptbahnhof, is about a five-minute drive away, while Berlin Tegel airport is about 25 minutes and Berlin Schonefeld 40 minutes.

ROOMS There are 303 rooms ranging from Deluxe (40 sqm) to the 205 sqm Ritz-Carlton suite. The art deco-style rooms feature Mar-lene Dietrich-inspired paintings, Nespresso machines, small sofas, good-sized tables, and ample plugs (although not UK ones) and USB sockets. All have Italian marble bathro-oms with separate showers and tubs. Ritz-Carlton Club rooms (also 40 sqm) are located on the 10th and 11th floors and are available at roughly a €100 supplement, with access to the 11th-floor Club lounge included.

Ritz-Carlton Berlin

BEST FOR Seamless service and attention to detail

DON’T MISS Having a drink in Fragrances,

then listening to some live music in the Curtain Club

PRICE Internet rates for a flexible

midweek stay in July started from €278 for a Deluxe room

CONTACT The Ritz-Carlton Berlin,

Potsdamer Platz 3; tel +49 (0)30 337 777; ritzcarlton.com/berlin

Soundproofing in my sixth-floor room was faultless, although one night I was woken by drunks outside in the street as the large cen-tral window had been left open by houseke-eping. The positive aspect is you can open the window and get some fresh air.

FOOD AND DRINK A good choice here. Pots restaurant offers a modern interpretation of German cuisine courtesy of head chef Frede-rik Grieb and three-Michelin starred patron Dieter Muller, plus a German wine selection featuring more than 200 choices.There’s also the lobby lounge, and two excel-lent bars that you could quite happily spend several hours in – the Curtain Club, open all day, and Fragrances, a cocktail bar open only in the evening. Here, resident mixologist Arnd Heissen will create a bespoke cocktail for you inspired by your favourite perfume, and if you wish, tell you what it says about your personality – don’t worry, it’s always complimentary.

MEETINGS Located on the first floor, facilities include a ballroom that can host 600 guests for a banquet, plus seven smaller rooms. The hotel can work with the neighbouring Mar-riott to accommodate larger events.

LEISURE There is a small spa, pool and gym in the basement.

VERDICT A very thoughtful renovation and a truly luxurious place to stay. I was particular-ly impressed with the service and the two bars and restaurant. Tom Otley

The revamp has created a homely feel that nods towards 1920s cinema



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BACKGROUND GWR recen-tly revamped its Night Riviera service between London and Cornwall. Its sleeper cabins have been redesigned while “modern airline-style seats” have been in-troduced in the seated carriages. The Night Riviera runs between London Paddington and Penzan-ce every night except Saturday. The Penzance-bound service de-parts London at 2345, arriving at 0753, while the Paddington--bound service leaves Penzance at 2145, arriving at 0523, with passengers not required to di-sembark until 0645. I was travel-ling to Plymouth, with an arrival time of 0511.

THE LOUNGE GWR’s Padding-ton lounge is located on platform 1, from where the Night Riviera departs. Passengers travelling in cabins can use it from 2100. It has complimentary soft drinks and snacks, desks with power outlets, and three smart shower rooms.

BOARDING Although the Ni-ght Riviera does not depart until 2345, cabin customers can board from 2230. I was in cabin 23 in coach F. An attendant asked if I wanted a wake-up call and took

GWR Night Riviera London-Plymouth

JOURNEY LENGTH Five hours 26 minutes

PRICEA midweek super off-peak

return from London to Plymouth in June costs from £250 when opting for a single use cabin

CONTACT gwr.com

ARRIVAL Breakfast was delivered at the same time as my wake-up call, just before the train arrived into Plymouth at 0511. I had checked beforehand that the tra-in would sit on the platform for half an hour (departing at 0545), allowing me plenty of time to eat, pack and disembark. The tea came in a pot and the bacon roll was warm and fresh.

VERDICT The revamp has bro-ught cabins up to hotel standard with good bedding, USB points and wifi. Friendly staff were on hand throughout, and the Pad-dington lounge is welcome, with useful showers. Mark Caswell

I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable the bed was, and by the quality of the pillows and duvet

my breakfast order, with items including tea, coffee, juice, por-ridge, cereal, a croissant or bacon roll. Cabin passengers also get a free soft drink in the bar carria-ge, which is open throughout the journey. I was in bed by 2300, and asleep by the time the train departed.

THE CABIN These are either solo (one single bed) or twin (bunk

beds) and can be booked either as an add-on to a normal rail ticket (from £45 for a shared cabin, or from £75 for a cabin to yourself), or by purchasing Sleeper Advan-ce packages. Cabins are cosy to say the least, but there are little innovations to make the most of the space, including a ladder to the upper bunk that can be folded away when not in use, and an ultra-shallow wardrobe in which I could hang my coat and shirt. Features now include key-card door locks, USB and plug points, free wifi, a service call button, reading lights, air conditioning, blackout blinds, a basin with a fold-down lid that doubles as a small table, storage space for both bunks, and two small mirrors. A bottle of water, a hand towel and soap are also provided. Cabins are not ensuite. Toilets are located at the end of each carriage.

I was in a twin room, so was able to use the upper bunk as ad-ditional storage. I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable the bed was, and by the quality of the pillows and duvet. The lower bunk is 1.93 metres long, while the upper one is slightly shorter at 1.89 metres, but conversely the upper bunk is 74cm at its widest, which is 2cm wider than the lower bunk. I slept fairly well, although vaguely remember a few doors being slammed at sta-tions along the route, and I woke up once when we went around a sharpish corner, which caused me to slide down the bed a little.

S M A R T T R A V E L L E R

Tier levels explained

If you regularly travel, it ma-kes sense to join the loyalty scheme of the airline with which the majority of your flights takes place. Most major carriers are part of one of the three airline al-

liances – Oneworld, Skyteam or Star Alliance.There is no best alliance, but one of them will almost certainly suit you more than another because of your location and the destinations you regularly visit, or the airlines

you regularly use. Bear in mind that there are also associated fi-nancial products for alliances, me-aning you can accrue additional benefits using a credit card allied with one of them. As you rise through the tiers of your airline programme, you will also be progressing through the tiers of that alliance, giving you benefits across member airlines including earning and burning miles and lounge access. Here’s a guide to the benefits available.

ONEWORLD SKYTEAM STAR ALLIANCE

RUBY SAPPHIRE EMERALD ELITE ELITE PLUS SILVER GOLD

Lounge access ✓* ✓ ✓ ✓

Priority check-in ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

Fast track at security ✓ ✓ ✓*

Priority boarding ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

Priority baggage handling ✓** ✓** ✓ ✓ ✓

Preferred or pre-reserved seating ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

Priority on waitlists and when on standby (subject to individual member carrier’s policy and legal regulations)

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

Extra baggage allowance ✓*** ✓**** ✓ ✓ ✓**

Guaranteed reservations on sold-out flights ✓

* Business class lounges only** Apart from flights operated by British

Airways*** Additional 15kg with “weight” system or additional 23kg bag with “piece” system**** Additional 20kg with “weight” system or additional bag with “piece” system

* At selected airports ** Additional 20kg with “weight” system or additional bag with “piece” system

ONEWORLD Number of airlines: 13American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, Sri Lankan Airlines Plus Fiji Airways (Oneworld Connect partner and so different rules may apply), Royal Air Maroc (future member, expected mid-2020) Number of lounges: approx 650

SKYTEAM Number of airlines: 19Aeroflot, Aerolineas Argentinas, Aeromexico, Air Europa, Air France, Alitalia, China Airlines, China Eastern, Czech Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Garuda Indonesia, Kenya Airways,

KLM, Korean Air, MEA, Saudia, TAROM, Vietnam Airlines, Xiamen Air Number of lounges: approx 750

STAR ALLIANCE Number of airlines: 28Adria Airways, Aegean Airlines, Air Canada, Air China, Air India, Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, Austrian Airlines, Avianca, Avianca Brasil, Brussels Airlines, Copa Airlines, Croatia Airlines, Egyptair, Ethiopian Airlines, EVA Air, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, SAS, Shenzhen Airlines, Singapore Airlines, South African Airways, Swiss, TAP Air Portugal, Thai Airways, Turkish Airlines, United Number of lounges: more than 1,000

Alliance members

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Flying can be a source of anxiety for people with nut allergies. The risk of a reaction in a conta-ined environment, 35,000 feet in the air, is a very real concern, and fears are not allayed by the varying policies of airlines. Many carriers follow the International Air Transport Association (IATA)’s recommen-

dations for allergen-sensitive passengers as a framework. Note, however, that there are still no clear-cut rules go-verning the in-flight serving of nuts. As a result, airlines state that they cannot guarantee a totally allergen-free environment, as it is not possible to ban passengers from bringing nut-based products on board or stop them from consuming them. Here is what you can do.

CARRY AN EPI PEN IN YOUR HAND LUGGAGE Bring an adrenaline auto-injector on board and carry an emergency plan signed by your doctor to ensure that you don’t have problems at security.

INFORM CABIN CREW AND YOUR NEIGHBOURSThe crew should make a formal announcement before ta-ke-off, if requested to do so, informing passengers of the situation. At such times, British Airways, Easyjet, Jet2 and Ryanair suspend the serving of nut snacks. Not all airlines make a public address, however.

REQUEST A SPECIAL MEAL IN ADVANCE Many airlines have refrained from using nuts as an ingre-dient in their in-flight meals, but, as IATA puts it, “airlines are unable to provide allergen-free meals because commer-cial kitchens cannot guarantee compliance”. Where special nut-free meals are not offered, passengers must make their own food arrangements.

PRE-BOARD TO WIPE DOWN YOUR SEAT Allergic reactions can be caused from skin contact with nut particles, which circulate in the air and can set-tle on fold-down trays, seats and armrests. While airlines perform a quick clean of the cabins from one flight to the next, this is unlikely to get rid of all possible debris. Car-

riers including ANA, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific and Delta Air Lines extend pre-boarding to nut allergy sufferers so that they can wipe down their seating area in advance. Passengers must bring their own sanitising wipes and cleaning products.

REQUEST A BUFFER ZONE To prevent allergy sufferers from being in close contact with nut products, some airlines create buffer zones, within which neighbouring passengers refrain from eating nuts during the flight.

PEANUT POLICIES The following airlines do not serve peanuts on board:

■ Air Canada – currently phasing out other nuts in the packaged bar snacks

■ Air New Zealand■ American Airlines – serves other kinds of warmed nuts■ British Airways – in-flight menus contain walnuts and cashews■ Delta Air Lines■ Easyjet – removing the last of its nut products from its in-flight

range in the coming months■ Flybe■ Jetblue■ Korean Air – this came about in March following a widely reported

incident in which two teenage brothers were removed from a flight owing to a peanut allergy

■ Lufthansa■ Qantas – passengers may still be served almonds, cashews and macadamia nuts■ Singapore Airlines – other nuts are still served in classes other

than economy■ Southwest Airlines■ United

UK charity Anaphylaxis Campaign lists all of the airlines’ policies: anaphylaxis.org.uk

Flying with nut allergies

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4 H O U R S I N . . .

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W O R D S H A N N A H B R A N D L E R

Enjoy fine views, eye-catching art and a wee dram in Scotland’s biggest city

1 Clydeside DistilleryIt wouldn’t be right to visit Glasgow without acknowledging Scotland’s favourite drink. Opened in 2017, this family-run Scotch whisky distillery occupies the Old Pump House buil-ding on Queen’s Dock, from where the spirit was once exported around the world. We won’t spoil too much of the story, as a tour will reveal more of its past, but it’s worth knowing that this is the first dedicated single malt distillery to open in Glasgow in more than 100 years. Finish your visit in high spirits by browsing the drams at the shop; select one of the distillery’s exclusive whiskies from the Highland, Lowland or Islay and you can get it personalised with a be-spoke label. There’s also a café with a whisky flight menu, allowing you to sample four drams alongside Scottish

delicacies. Open daily 10am-5pm; a one-hour tour costs £15.theclydeside.com

1 Kelvingrove Art Gallery and MuseumTake the overpass above the mo-torway to Eastvale Place to see li-vely murals splashed across ware-houses and walls. Turn right down Kelvinhaugh Street and left on to Yorkhill Street, then carry on along Regent Moray Street until you reach Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Mu-seum. The red-brick building ho-uses exhibitions on everything from ancient Egypt to one of Glasgow’s most famous sons, Charles Rennie Mackintosh. The Glasgow Stories collection is a must for those inte-rested in the city’s history, from its

medieval beginnings through the industrial revolution to its modern transformation as a digital media hub. Another highlight is Sophie Cave’s Floating Heads installation – suspended in the foyer, it comprises more than 50 sculptures displaying different emotions. Organ recitals take place in the Centre Hall at 1pm Monday to Saturday and at 3pm on Sundays – the 2,889-pipe organ has been in place since the museum ope-ned in 1901. Open 10am-5pm (from 11am Friday and Sunday); free entry. glasgowlife.org.uk/museums

3 Kelvingrove ParkThe Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum is set in the north-west part of this Victorian park, which was Scotland’s first purpose-con-

Glasgow West End

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structed green space. Designed by Sir Joseph Paxton, of Crystal Pa-lace fame, its 34 hectares are split by the River Kelvin and are home to a diverse range of wildlife and birds, including kingfishers, herons and cormorants, while there are also occasional sightings of otters. Wan-der along the herbaceous and rho-dodendron borders, or check out the boarders and bikers practising their skills at the skate park. If you have the stamina, climb up the staggering granite staircase, which dates back to 1854. You’ll be rewarded with great views of the city and Glasgow University, plus the magnificent Georgian mansions of Park Terrace just outside the gate. During sum-mer, ticketed musical performances take place in the art deco bandstand and amphitheatre.

4 Artisan Roast

After working up an appetite from the steep climb, leave the park via Eldon Street in the north-east and you’ll find this charming café just across the bridge at 15-17 Gibson Street. There are plenty of fresh sandwiches and cakes on offer – try the fudgy date and caramel brow-nies – and the baristas roast their own beans. The brew bar offers a range of filter options, with its bean selection rotating weekly, and the café also sells its beans at the coun-ter. The eclectic furnishings include rustic wooden pews and gramopho-nes that have been repurposed as lighting. You’ll spot freelancers and students as well as friends cat-ching up here over a brew. It’s open 8am-5pm (from 9am on week-ends). artisanroast.co.uk

5 Great Western RoadDuly satisfied by coffee and cake, turn right down Otago Street and then left on to the long stretch of Great Western Road for a spot of shopping. Browse second-hand tomes and collector’s items at Caledonia Books (number 483), a family-run store established in 1986, and old-school garments at the Glasgow Vintage Company (453). If you’re passing by at lunch or din-nertime, it’s likely that queues will be forming at Paesano Pizza (471), a city favourite offering authentic Neapoli-tan sourdough. If nature is more your thing, then head towards Glasgow Botanic Gardens, which are free to vi-sit and open from 7am until dusk.caledoniabooks.co.uk glasgowvintage.com paesanopizza.co.uk glasgowbotanicgardens.com

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PIOTR KALITA is related with air transport market for almost 20 years. He is specializing in corporate and diplomatic travel segment. Have a question? - ask Peter.

VISA TO MOSCOWI’ve recently overheard news that it’s now possible to enter Russia without a visa. I'm going on a business trip to Moscow in a few weeks’ time. Will I have to apply for a visa? Is it possible to get it online? I’ve heard you don’t need to visit the embassy anymore to obtain it...

Adam

Dear Adam,The news you’ve overheard isn't completely true. Indeed, from 1 July 2019 it’s now possible to apply for electronic visas, but only for short trips to specific regions of the Russian Federation. This decision by Russian authorities is connected with the growing tourist traffic to Russian Federation. The simplified procedure applies to the Kalinin-grad Region and can be used by citizens of 53 countries, including Poland. The second region is the Far East, with new regulations applying to citizens of 18 countries visiting specific regions (for example, Japanese citizens may use electronic visas to cross the border in Vladivostok).

This means that with the new regu-lations you can now go to Kaliningrad Region after applying and obtaining the electronic visa. The visa application must be completed online and the decision is issued within a maximum of four days. The application status can be checked on a regular basis. Once you obtain the visa, you need to print it out and carry with you when you cross the border. The Kalinin-grad Region can be reached by air, sea or land.

The electronic visa may be granted to persons travelling for tourism, business or other purposes (for example, those participating in sporting events, confe-rences, fairs or scientific congresses). The applicant's passport must be valid for at least 6 months and have one blank page for border stamps. You can apply for the visa no earlier than 20 days and no later than 4 days before the planned date of arrival. Health insurance for the duration of the stay is also required. The visa is valid for 30 days from the date of issue, but the maximum stay cannot exceed 8 days. When travelling to Moscow, you must ap-ply for a visa at a consulate of the Russian Federation. Usually it's the consulate the closest to where you live.

COMPENSATION FOR DELAYED FLIGHTMy boss flew from São Paulo to Warsaw via Amsterdam. In Amsterdam, he had an hour and 45 minutes to change planes. However, the first flight had a considerable delay, and as a result my boss missed the plane to Warsaw and had to wait several hours for the next one. We applied for compensation from the airline, but the answer was negative. He only got a food voucher to use at an airport bar. My question is: why were we denied compensation for the delayed flight?

Janina

Dear Janina,According to the documents you have sent to me, the flight from São Paulo took of with a two-hour delay. Indeed, in such a situation, it wasn’t possible to change planes in Amsterdam despite the fact that the planned delay was reduced to one hour. The key factor here is the reason for the delayed departure. The take-off was postponed due to restrictions imposed by the fvlight control centre. Such a situation is independent of the airline and unforeseeable for the carrier. That is why, the complaint was rejected and the airline didn’t pay any compensation.

By doing so, the carrier complied with the provisions of the EU Directive 261/2004, which sets out the obli-gations of the carrier in the event of disruption of flights (delay, cancellation, change of destination airport, changes in travel class, denied boarding). The passenger received assistance appropriate to the situation. In this particular case this was a voucher to be redeemed at an airport restaurant. If there had been no connection to Warsaw on the same day, your boss would have also been granted a free overnight stay at a hotel.

Compensation isn’t paid automatically. Only situations which are dependent on the carrier and could have been foreseen in advance entitle passengers to compen-sation. Recent court rulings state that a strike of airline personnel (for example, pilots or flight attendants) is a situation that an airline could have foreseen and prevented. If that was the case, your boss would have been entitled to compensation. However, the strike of air traffic controllers or airport personnel are situations, which are independent of airlines.

In this particular case, your boss can’t be compensa-ted and it seems the airline has fully complied with the rules by refusing to pay.

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