Krakow Czesc Nov 2010

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KRAKOW

Cze!Inside:

All Saints

Listings

Attractions

Features

Recommended

November 2010

5 PLN


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All Saints Day... p3 City Attractions... p4 Listings... p6Dining... p15 Explore... p16 Feature... p17 Language... p18

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This is the itme of year when cemeteriesare amongst the busiests places in Krakow.For November 1 marks the festival of AllSaints, a public holiday throughout Poland.On this day Poles of all denominations andeven those with no god at all, pour into thegraveyards to pay their respects to nationalheroes, great men and women of cultureand science, and their own ancestors and

beloveds who have been lain to rest.

Krakows cemeteries, notably those atRakowicki, Podgorze and Salwator and

betutiful and poignant places to visit at anytime of year. Yet visit after dark at any timeduring the first week of November, andyou will be greeted by an ocean of flowers,and candles in coloured glass lanterns,flowing from almost every tomb.

November 1 is a public holiday in Poland.It was too under the Communisty party,although at this time the authorities tried to

strip it of its religious significance byre-naming it the Day of the Dead.All Saints Day has its roots in pagantradition. As Christianity swept acrossEurope it absorbed the tradition, and it isnow an important date in the calendar ofthe CatholicChurch. Visitors from the UKor the USA may note the absence ofcelebration on October 31.

PAGE 3 November 2010

INSIDE

All Saints Day

Tomb at Rakowicki - detail:

How to get there...Rakowicki: Trams 2, 11

Salwator: Tram 1 to the end thenfollow w. Bronisawy

Podgorze: Trams 3, 6, 13, 24

Cze!


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Polecamy...Polecamy...

(we recommend...)(we recommend...)

Or, see the city for free!Krakows museums and galleries pull inmany tourists willing to hand over their

hard earned cash. But did you know youcan enter many of the citys most beautifulattractions for free? Because when youveseen Auschwitz and the Salt Mines, youwill still have time on your hands.On Mondays, these include the Schindlerfactory, Pharmacy pod orlem, the oldsynagogue, and parts of Wawel castle.Look around the permanent exhibition at

the Japanese Manggha gallery on Tuesday,then take in the Burgher house, or Celestaton Wednesday. If youre here on a Sundaythere simply wont be time to doeverything - the archaeology museum,

photography museum, national museum,Bishop Ezram palace, Wyspianskimuseum and Ethnographical museum allopen for free.

ATTRACTIONS Cze!

Bezpatny city!

Wawel



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ATTRACTIONS Cze!free entrances tickets mean you have to beup early in the morning, and mostmuseums close one day each week.


How to get there...Pharmacy Pod Orlem: Trams 3, 9,

13 to Plac Bohaterow GettaSchindler Factory: As above, thenwalk Kacik-Lipowa via underpass

Wawel: Grodzka from main

squareArchaelogy museum: As above,

take Poselska off GrodzkaBishop Ezram palace:As above,take Senacka then Kanonicza off

GrodzkaManggha: Trams 1, 6, 2 to Jubilat,

then walk KonopnickiejBurgher House: Plac Mariacki, off

main squareCelestat: Trams 4, 10, 11, 14, 15,

20, 40 to Lubicz, then walkLubicz

Photography museum: Trams 4, 8,

12, 13 to Plac Inwalidow, thenwalk Krolewska-JozefitowNational museum: Trams 18, 15

to Cracovia, then Al. Maja 1Wyspianski museum:

Szczepanska, from main squareEthnographical museum: Trams 8,

10 to Plac Wolnica


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LISTINGS Cze!

Krakow Opera Company at the OperaKrakow Opera Company at the OperaHouse, 48 Lubicz streetHouse, 48 Lubicz streetStanislaw Moniuszko's The HauntedManor, Nov 6, 7, 6.30pm, Nov 9, 11am.Georges Bizets Carmen, Nov 13, 14, 16,6.30pm.I Sing the Rhyme of Love, Nov 13, 14, 236.30pm; Nov 24, 11am.Engelbert Humperdink's Hansel and

Gretchen, Nov 26, 11am, Nov 28, 5pm.British Bohemia:. The BloomsburyBritish Bohemia:. The BloomsburyCircle of Virginia WoolfCircle of Virginia WoolfInternational Cultural Centre, 25 RynekGlowny (pictured below. Until Jan 9)

Festival of Polish MusicFestival of Polish MusicNov 5-12, concerts daily at FilharmoniaKrakowska concert hall, 1 Zwierzynieckastreet.Krakow Book FairKrakow Book Fair

Nov 4-7, Targi w Krakowie, Centralnastreet.Etiuda and Anima international filmEtiuda and Anima international filmfestivalfestival

Nov 19-25. The work of film and artsstudents from around the world. Variousvenues, see etiudaandanima.com.


Five to catch... Polecamy...Polecamy...



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LISTINGS Cze!

November 1November 1Krakows Capella Cracoviensis orchestraand choir perform Mozarts Requiem,Kosciol Sw. Katarzyny church, 7Augustianska Street, 8pmNovember 8November 8Rock band Sabaton, Studio club, 4Budryka Street, 7pmNovember 15November 15International Festival of the Theatre ofForm (Nov 13-20), Groteska theatre, 2,Skarbowa Street. See www.groteska.plNovember 22November 22

Chopin piano and Piazzolla tango,Manggha, 26 Konopnickiej Street, 8pmNovember 29November 29Saxophone jazz at Alchemia club, 5 Esterystreet, Plac Nowy, 8pm


Mondays


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LISTINGS Cze!

November 2November 2Joseph Conrad International LiteratureFestival (until Nov 6 - pictured below).Various. See www.conradfestival.pl

November 9November 9Classical music from Zielenski, Jarzebski,Gorczycki, Gorecki, Lutoslawski andStachowicz, Kosciol Franciszkanow

church, Franciszkanska Street, 8.30pmIndie rock from The Futureheads, Fabrykaclub, Zablocie Street, 8pmNovember 16November 16Jazz with the Barry Guy New Orchestra,Alchemia club, 5 Estery Street, Plac Nowy,8pmRock with Prosto z Chile, Zascianek club,4 Rostafinskiego Street, 8pm

November 23November 23Beethoven sonatas, FilharmoniaKrakowska concert hall, 1 ZwierzynieckaStreet, 7.30pmRock with Brown, Zascianek club, 4Rostafinskiego Street, 8pmNovember 30November 30Free saxophone jazz, Alchemia club, 5Estery Street, Plac Nowy, 8pm


Tuesdays


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LISTINGS Cze!

November 3November 3The English Baroque Trio performs music

by Schmelzer, Biber, Vivaldi, Tartini, andCorelli, Wawel Royal Castle, 7.30pm.Pop with Mieczyslaw Szczesniak, Studioclub, 4 Budryka Street, 8pmNovember 10November 10Classical music from Moniuszko,Bargielski, Szymanowski and Stachowski,the Austrian Consulate, 9 CybulskiegoStreet, 7.30pmNovember 17November 17

Jazz with the Barry Guy New Orchestra(above), Alchemia club, 5 Estery Street,Plac Nowy, 8pm

November 24November 24 Nocturnes by Clementi and Dussek,Filharmonia Krakowska concert hall, 1Zwierzyniecka Street, 7.30pmJewish-inspired jazz from Krok, theJewish Culture Centre, 17 Meiselsa Street,6pmRock with Armia, Kwadrat club, 1Skarzynskiego Street, 7pm


Wednesdays


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LISTINGS Cze!

November 4November 4Pop from Indigo Tree, Zaczek club, 3 MajaStreet, 8pmNovember 11November 11Chopin Mix & Remix, Alchemia club, 5Estery Street, Plac Nowy, 9.30pmAlt pop from De Phazz, Fabryka club, 23Zablocie street, 8pmNovember 18November 18

Krakow Philharmonic Orchestra performmusic by Dobrzynski, Liszt, andSchumann, Filharmonia Krakowskaconcert hall, 1 Zwierzyniecka Street, 6pmJazz from Barry Guy New Orchestra,Alchemia club, 5 Estery Street, Plac Nowy,8pmAlt pop from Something Like Elvis,Zaczek club, 3 Maja Street, 8pmNovember 25November 25

Capella Cracoviensis chamber orchestra(above) performs music by Hummel andSchumann, Filharmonia Krakowskaconcert hall, 1 Zwierzyniecka Street,7.30pm


Thursdays


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LISTINGS Cze!

November 5November 5Music by Szymanowski, Zubel, andChopin, Filharmonia Krakowska concerthall, 1 Zwierzyniecka Street, 7pmTrip hop from Tricky, Fabryka club, 23Zablocie Street, 8pmRock from SB, Rotunda club, 1 OleandryStreet, 7pmPop from Spiety Zaczek club, 3 MajaStreet, 8pmRock from Kult, Studio club, 4 BudrykaStreet, 7pmNovember 12November 12:Krakow Philharmonic Orchestra,Filharmonia Krakowska concert hall, 1Zwierzyniecka Street, 7pmNovember 19November 19

Krakow Philharmonic Orchestra,Filharmonia Krakowska concert hall, 1Zwierzyniecka Street, 6pmJazz with Barry Guy New Orchestra,Alchemia club, 5 Estery Street, Plac Nowy,8pmNovember 26November 26Krakows Academy of Music Orchestra

perform Schumann and Berlioz,

Filharmonia Krakowska concert hall, 1Zwierzyniecka Street, 7pmSzymanowska, Filharmonia Krakowskaconcert hall, 1 Zwierzyniecka Street,7.30pmPop rock from Pogodno, Rotunda club, 1Oleandry Street, 8pmPop from Digit All Love, Zaczek club, 3Maja Street, 8pm


Fridays


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LISTINGS Cze!

November 7November 7Capella Cracoviensis perform Karlowiczand Janiewicz, the JagiellonianUniversitys Collegium Novum, 24Golebia Street, 11amPop from Polish band ZespolReprezentacyjny, Rotunda club, 1Oleandry Street, 7pmNovember 14November 14

Krakow Philharmonics String Quartet play music by Messieri, Verdi andDobrzynski, Jewish Culture Centre, 17Meiselsa Street, 6pmRock with international line-up featuringParkway Drive, Comeback Kid, BleedingThrough, Emmure, We Came As Romans,War From A Harlots Mouth, and YourDemise, Rotunda club, 1 Oleandry Street,6pmNovember 21November 21Krakow Opera Ballet performs its newshow called Glances, to music by Raveland Gounod, Krakow Opera House, 48Lubicz Street, 6.30pmRock with The Cuts, Zascianek club, 4Rostafinskiego Street, 8pm

November 28November 2819th-century music on period instruments,Filharmonia Krakowska concert hall, 1Zwierzyniecka Street, 11amPianist Piotra Kosinski plays music byRavel, Paderewski, and Chopin, JewishCulture Centre, 17 Meiselsa Street, 6pmRock from Therion, Studio club, 4Budryka Street, 8pm


Sundays


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Fancy a drink? You will bespoilt for choice in Krakow.Polish beers are quitestrong, and tasty. The mostcommonly available areZywiec, Okocim and

Tyskie. Go to Katedra onPoselska if you want a quite

bewildering array of beer

from around the world. Youshouldnt pay more than 9zlfor half a litre, and thats atthe very top limit.Of course, Poland is famous for vodka too(such as Chopin, pictured). Another localdrink is wisniowy, usually made ofcherries, very strong, and quite sweet.If youd rather something more exotic,

cocktails are making a big (thoughsomewhat expensive) space forthemselves in Krakow.For coffee, try Nowa Prowincja onBracka - which also offers free wi-fiinternet and has very friendly staff.

Bottoms up!There are two main areas in Krakow to geta bite to eat or a drink - the main squareand surrounding streets, and Kazimierz.Go to the main square if you are lookingfor something more upmarket and arewilling to pay a little above the odds. Forseriously high class and high prices, dineat Wierzynek on the main square. Try

Kazimierzs Plac Nowy for delicious andcheap snacks of zapiekanki (French bread)with toppings, or noodles.Most tastes are catered for, but Britishtourists will notice the absence of anythingthey would recognise as a chip shop.Though try the Pod Temida milk bar onGrodzka for fried fish. Fans of Indian foodtoo might find it difficult, unless they try

the good but quite pricey BombajTandoori on Szeroka in Kazimierz. Italianfood, from pizza upwards, is big here as ofcourse is Polish cuisine. Look for the signPolski Jadlo (Polish food) for a reallytraditional and hearty dish of pierogi orbigos. Chlopskie Jadlo literally means

peasant food - and despite the name is tastyand cheap. Vegetarians are better catered

for in Krakow than they are in many citiesin this part of Europe, even though Polishfood is still largely meat-based. Momo, onDietla, caters for vegans too. Post-pub, ifyoure in Kazimierz then Plac Nowy is the

place to eat. If youre in the centre, try themeat or vegetarian kebabs from the outletson Florianska.So, need for McDonalds at all!

Come dine with us

DINING Cze!



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Take tram number one to the end of theline to explore Salwator, an affluent part of

Krakows Zwierzyniecdistrict.From the tram stop, on the same side of theroad, take the street called Sw Bronislawy.Following the road you will, in 15 minutesor so, reach the Koscsziusko Mound, withits museum, restaurant and forest setting.You will pass on your way the Salwatorcemetery, the church of the saviour, and thechapel of St Margaret and St Jude. All

these places are worth a visit en route to orfrom the mound - from which in goodweather you will get one of the moststunning views of Krakow. You can alsovisit the Norbertine monastery, oppositethe tram stop where this walk begins.

Kosciuszko Mound:

Built using earth from Tadeusz

Kosciuszkos battlefields in Poland and theUSA, to commemorate the man who

helpedAmerica gain independence and leda revolution against Russian oppression in

his homeland of Poland.St Margaret and St Jude:The chapel of St Margaret and St Jude is awooden building, dating from 1690. Itincludes an altar from the Church of theSaviour.Church of the Saviour:

Built in the 12th century, this wasoriginally the parish church serving the

area of the hostel.Salwator cemetery:While there are still some graves in thegrounds of the Church of the Saviour, themain cemetery at Salwator is the newone, established in 1865 and still in use.Science-fiction fans can pay homage at thegrave of Stanislaw Lem.

The river Wisla flows from the south of Poland all the way to the Baltic Sea in the north, and inKrakow and surrounding areas is home to a variety of wildlife. Swans, ducks and other waterfowlare all common on the city stretch of the river. You might also see otters, or catch sight of theshadowy outline of a large catfish as you stroll along the banks of the river, dine at one of therestaurant boats en route to the centre, or hire a water taxi to take you to Wawel.

Messing about on the river

EXPLORE Cze!


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FEATURE Cze!

Maybe it is something in the air, butNovember has been one of the most bloodyand hard-fought months in Polish history.For a start, it was in this month in 1794 thatthe uprising against the Russians, begun bynational hero Tadeusz Kosciuszko, wasfinally defeated. Kosciuszko was in prison

in St Petersburg on November 16 of thatyear, when Tomasz Wawrzeckisurrendered at Radoszyce. As a result,Poland was wiped from the map for 123years.Then, on November 29 1830, there wasanother uprising against the Russians, inPoland, Belarus, Lthuania and Ukraine.The November Uprising was led by Piotr

Wysocki of Warsaw, but defeated thefollowing year.But November is also the month of Polishindependence. November 11 isIndependence Day, a public holiday. Itmarks the foundation of the SecondRepublic, in 1918, when Poland once again

became a nation under the leadership ofJozef Pilsudski.


Fight for freedom

Kosciuszko at Wawel


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Krakow Czesc is published by Mad Like Jack Editorial Services. www.madlikejack.co.uk. company in Krakowat this address and this is their phone number. . For all English language editorial and sales enquiries, [email protected] or call (+48) 782 001 707

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