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Thanks to DanSport16v for the How ToThanks to DanSport16v for the How ToThanks to DanSport16v for the How ToThanks to DanSport16v for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ FitFitFitFittingtingtingting 6666x9x9x9x9 SpeakersSpeakersSpeakersSpeakers to the Rear Quartersto the Rear Quartersto the Rear Quartersto the Rear Quarters (3dr)(3dr)(3dr)(3dr)

Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility forany damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to dosomething leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if thismodification is done.

Inroduction/Summary:Inroduction/Summary:Inroduction/Summary:Inroduction/Summary:

This How To will explain how to fit 6 x 9 speakers into the rear quarters of a 3 door Astra G/MK4 inplace of the standard 17cm speakers. I would estimate the entire job taking about 3 hours.

The reasons for me choosing to fit these speakers in this way are:

I had the speakers already, and didnt want to purchase new ones.

I wanted a permanent solution to the upgrade of rear speakers.

I regularly use all of my boot space so I cannot afford the space for a subwoofer. Therefore Ineeded more mid bass from my rear speakers than components could offer. Also, did not wantthe hassle of removing an MDF rear parcel shelf every time I loaded up the car.

There are two things that you need to know before reading any further:

1. For those interested in a temporary solution (i.e. no permanent alterations to your vehicle)please fit youre 6 x 9s to a stealth shelf or similar.

2. You WILL need to cut part of the car away to fit these speakers, so unless you are confidentenough to do this, please do not continue.

Now thats all cleared up on with the how-to!

Parts and Tools Needed:Parts and Tools Needed:Parts and Tools Needed:Parts and Tools Needed:

Pair of 6 x 9 speakers

Cutting template suitable for your speakers (usually come with your speakers, but I will

instruct upon how to make your own) Angle grinder / dremel (or similar) cutting tool

Cross headed screwdriver

Torx head screwdrivers

Self tapping screws

Drill and metal drill bit just smaller than your self tapping screws

Large dust sheet to cover interior with

Speaker adaptor leads (Autoleads part number: PC2-805 3.99)

Firstly, remove the rear seats and quarter panels as described in the How To on AstraSport:

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Making a templaMaking a templaMaking a templaMaking a templatetetete::::

If you have cutting templates with your speakers please go straight to Step1 (below). If you dont try the manufacturers website or your local car audio shop. If you need to make your own this is howI made mine:

1. Firstly, place your speaker face down on cloth. Then identify the area that will need to beremoved to fit it. It is difficult to explain see photo (below).

2. Next, take a sheet of A4 paper and hold it over the bottom of the speaker magnet. Using yourfinger, rub around the edge of the magnet to make a circle (or the shape of your magnet). Cutout this shape. Move the paper down over the magnet, so that the magnet is coming throughthe paper towards you.

3. Move the paper down little by little, trimming it as necessary until your speaker fits into it as ifyou were going to mount it on the paper. You should be left with a piece of paper that has anellipse cut into it.

4. Place this over another A4 sheet, and trace the shape onto the second sheet.5. Cut out the shape and voila - you have the template for your speakers.

If possible, you can use the grill that fits over your speaker, and rub the paper into the shape on thespeaker side of the grill, then cut around the shape. You can only do this if you can see that the grillhas the same shape as the rear mounting of the speaker.

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Step One:Step One:Step One:Step One:

After removing the rear seats and doorcards you should have something lookinglike this:

Remove the existing speaker by undoingthe four torx screws. Unplug the wiringloom from the rear of the speaker, by

depressing the small catch on the side of

the plug.

Using a tape measure, ensure that thedepth of your new 6x9 is not greater thenthe distance between the rear quarterinner chassis and outer skin. There is a lotof room, so I would expect no problems.

Trim the sound proofing from around the existing speaker cutout to make room for you to cut forand fit the new speaker. Line up your template with the forward (facing front of the car) edge of the17cm hole, and secure it with blu-tack as shown below. I placed it in this way this because I could feelthere was something on the inside of the forward side of the existing speaker cutout that I did not

want to cut through.

Step Two:Step Two:Step Two:Step Two:

Trace around the template with a black pen.Then remove the template. Now you willneed to cut around the pen mark. You canuse a dremel cutting tool, but it is importantto remember that real men use an anglegrinder!

WARNINGS:WARNINGS:WARNINGS:WARNINGS: Cover up the surrounding area with

the cloth to avoid spark damage.

Make sure all seat belts; wires andany other possible obstructions aresafely tucked away.

Dampen the soundproofing to avoidit burning.

Keep a steady hand and check yourprogress frequently.

Take regular breaks tiredness means lack of concentration and you are cutting less then 15cm

from the outside skin of the car!

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After cutting you should have somethinglooking a little like this photo right:

Step Three:Step Three:Step Three:Step Three:

You may need an extra pair of hands to holdthe speaker for this and the next step.

Offer up the speaker to the hole. I needed to

make a few alterations to my hole (ooh-err!)to get the speaker to sit in flush. Make sureto inspect around the entire edge of thespeaker to make sure the speaker is sittingflat against the rear quarter. When you arehappy, keep the speaker in place and markthe holes for the screws using a black pen,and then put the speaker to one side.

Step Four:Step Four:Step Four:Step Four:

Drill the holes for the speaker screws. Using a manual screwdriver, carefully thread the holes with the

screws (do this by screwing the self-tapping screw in, and then out again). This will help when fittingthe screwing the speaker in, especially if you have to hold the speaker with your free hand.

Step Five:Step Five:Step Five:Step Five:

Plug your Autoleads adaptor onto the existing wiring in the car, and then slip on the other ends toyour new 6x9 speaker. You can cut the wires and crimp on connectors instead, but I feel that for notmuch more money it is worthwhile using the adaptors.

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Step 6:Step 6:Step 6:Step 6:

Fit the speaker onto the rear quarter using thescrews and holes you drilled earlier.

Switch on the head unit and check that thespeaker works. When you are happy, re-fit thedoor card, and make sure that it fits over the topof your new 6x9. I had no problem, even with the

grill on the speaker.

Smile, make a cup of tea, and then repeat all

above steps to fit the speaker to the other side.

When finished, refit the rear seats and enjoy thenew higher quality sounds.

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Thanks to Keif for the How ToThanks to Keif for the How ToThanks to Keif for the How ToThanks to Keif for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ RRRReplace theeplace theeplace theeplace the AerialAerialAerialAerial Base (MK4)Base (MK4)Base (MK4)Base (MK4)


Tools needed.Tools needed.Tools needed.Tools needed.

No.20 Torx screwdriver17mm Open ended spannerWashing-up liquidA small flat bladed screwdriver

There are many different bases fitted toAstra G's. - To get the correct one, you'llhave to quote your VIN number at yourVauxhall dealers parts department.

This How to was done on a 3-doorhatchback - The panels will be differenton a 5-door, but it will be the sameprinciple.

If your aerial base looks like this -------->,its in need of changing before waterleaks onto your headlining.

Basically all that needs doing is to dropthe rear of the headlining and removethe old base and refit a new one.

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Drop the headlining.Drop the headlining.Drop the headlining.Drop the headlining.

StepStepStepStep 1111You need to remove all the trim at each side ofthe headlining up to the drivers door shut, afterfirst removing your parcel shelf.

Undo the three Torx screws (marked ) in the

panel in the boot.

You don't need to remove the panel, just pull itoff the clips so it hangs clear.

StepStepStepStep 2222You'll then need to remove the rear grabhandle. Using a flat bladed screwdriver removeboth retaining clips these just slide out.

Then the handle will come out leaving the

base/light fitting in place.

Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3

Carefully pull the light out and let it hang onthe wires.

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Step 4Step 4Step 4Step 4To be on the safe side I unclipped the B-pillarcover. This just pulls off the clips.

Step 5Step 5Step 5Step 5The main trim should now be free to unclip andremove.

Remember this needs doing for BOTH side ofthe car.

When all the trim is out, you can carefully getbehind the rubber boot seal and get to the

edge of the headlining.

It's held up with 3 Velcro pads. Pull it downcarefully (you don't want to crease it), youshould see the base of the aerial.

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Removing the Aerial BaseRemoving the Aerial BaseRemoving the Aerial BaseRemoving the Aerial Base

Step 1Step 1Step 1Step 1It's not that clear from the previous photo, but there are three connections to be undone - Radioantenna lead, amplifier lead and water pipe.

Remove the foam insulation from around the Radio antenna, then unscrew and pull the connectorapart.

Then unclip the washer connection.

Step 2Step 2Step 2Step 2The water pipe does just pull out, but it's a long male pipe so can be a bit fiddly. Water pressure stops

the water leaking once the pipes removed.

Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3Using a 17mm open ended spanner (a socket can't get in) undo the retaining nut. Only takes a smallturn to get it started and then it's possible to undo it with your fingers

Step 4Step 4Step 4Step 4Once the nut is removed then you'll be able to carefully lift the old base from the car.

Preparing the NPreparing the NPreparing the NPreparing the New Baseew Baseew Baseew Base

Step 1Step 1Step 1Step 1You'll need to remove the washer jet from theold base and fir it into the new. To remove it fromthe old unit a small screwdriver and a push fromthe bottom of the jet will loosen it. It's a tight fit!

SSSStep 2tep 2tep 2tep 2Then just push the jet into the new unit, makingsure the groove is lined up with the tenon on thejet. Washing up liquid may be needed to help itslip in.

Your new base is now ready to be fitted.

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Fitting is basically the reverse of the above, youshouldn't have to tighten the aerial nut up muchas it just needs to grab the underside of the roof.

Plus you wont need to adjust the jet.

Fitting the water pipe back is a pain and a gooddollop of washing up liquid will be needed.

I wrapped insulation tape around the aerialconnection once Id screwed it back up as Idestroyed the foam on removal.

The only thing to watch re-fitting the interiorpanels is lining the seatbelt adjuster up; if youmisaligned the clip on the rear of the panel you'llbreak it and have to replace the whole panel.

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Thanks to lee gsi for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ Fit a KFit a KFit a KFit a K----MACMACMACMAC Rear AntiRear AntiRear AntiRear Anti----Roll Bar (MK4)Roll Bar (MK4)Roll Bar (MK4)Roll Bar (MK4)


The Mk4 Astra is not fitted with a rear AntiThe Mk4 Astra is not fitted with a rear AntiThe Mk4 Astra is not fitted with a rear AntiThe Mk4 Astra is not fitted with a rear Anti----Roll Bar (ARB) as standard, so fitting one willRoll Bar (ARB) as standard, so fitting one willRoll Bar (ARB) as standard, so fitting one willRoll Bar (ARB) as standard, so fitting one willtighten up the back end and greatly improve hantighten up the back end and greatly improve hantighten up the back end and greatly improve hantighten up the back end and greatly improve handling.dling.dling.dling.


First of all you will need to get the car up on a 4 poster ramp as the anti roll bar needs to be fittedwith the car level, as if it was on the road.

Once up in the air you need to fit the first bracket that goes on the pivot point of the rear suspension.

Undo the nut (circled red) so you can fit the bracket - dont remove the bolt! Once the bracket is

fitted, refit and tighten the nut to following torque

Stage 1 190nm or 66lbf ftStage 2 angle tighten 60Stage 3 angle tighten 15

Before After

Repeat for the other side

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Fit the T-shaped nut (indicated in photo) to the hole in the bottom ofthe swinging arm. When you look at the nut, you need to insert it intothe hole and turn it 90 degrees so the stepped bit is sitting down inthrough the hole.

Before T-shaped nut fitted After (ready to accept bracket)


Place the 2 bolts in the bracket with the head of

the bolt on the top of the bracket, so the threadof the bolt is facing down.

Now bolt the bracket up to the T-shaped nutthats in the hole of the bottom arm so that thebracket and 2 bolts are parallel with the bumper(As the roll bar will go through the middle of thebracket).

Do the other side!

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Now you need to bolt on the anti roll barto the trailing arm brackets.

Place the bolts with the square endsthrough the bracket so the thread is facingdown.

Then place the rubber bush around the rollbar and then put the second part of thebracket over the bush. Its best to put somecopper grease on the bush before fittingthe bar/bracket.

When fitting the U-clamps, just do up thenuts hand tight, so it still allows for somefinal adjustment of the bar in the brackets.

StepStepStepStep 5555

Next bolt the anti roll bar to the other

brackets on the trailing arm.

The roll bar is under a bit of tension so youmight have to push and hold the roll barup against the bracket to enable you to fitthe U-clamp. Again, you need to place therubber bush over the roll bar and put theclamp over the top of the bush. Usecopper grease again.

The bracket that you had already fitted tothe car will have the bolts facing down soyou can push the U-clamp over the threadsand do the nuts up.

Again, dont do them up tight so you havea bit (You dont get much) of movement soyou can align it easier on the other side.

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Once youre 100% happy that everything is lined up and sitting centrally, go round the brackets anddo up all the nuts on brackets so its all nice and tight.

Thats itThats itThats itThats it. You now have a K-MAC rear anti roll bar fitted to your car which looks like this:

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Thanks to Oddjob for the How To

How To.. Dismantle & Reassemble the Ashtray ( Mk4)

Astra Owners Club Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NOresponsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure howto do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if thismodification is done.

Tools required:

Small Thin Screwdriver

Medium size flat bladed screwdriver

Step 1Remove the ashtray from the centre console. If youcan't do that please stop reading now and paysomeone to do the next steps.

The ashtray comes apart really easily as long as youfollow the steps in order, do not get frustrated andforce anything or it will break.

Locate the gear which controls the speed of theashtray as it flicks open.

To remove the gear insert a small screwdriver inthe hole near the catch and lever upwards, it comesout quite easily.

If your ashtray is sticking whilst opening remove this gear and see how it performs without it. It will fly openvery rapidly, but you can listen for any scraping etc as it opens, which indicates the problem lies elsewhereit the ashtray.

Step 2

You now need to remove the catch which holds theashtray shut.

There is a central clip on it, I've inserted the thinscrewdriver to highlight where it is, hold this upwhilst allowing the ashtray to open, when fully openyou can push the catch further upwards and thenremove it.

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Step 3Now you can remove the tray itselfwithout bits flying off all over the car.

Insert the medium screwdriverbetween the surround and the trayas in photo. You must keep the top ofthe tray closed, and you need to getthe bottom to detach whilst the topstays in place, it's really easy

Start on the cigar lighter side andseparate the tray and surround fromthis side - there is a pivot point insidewhich you need to loosen off.

When you've got that side loose dothe same with the other but as itcomes loose cover the spring with your finger - don't forget to keep the top in place, swing the bottom partout. The spring isn't that strong and won't hurt you.

Step 4.

Now you should have the ashtrayloose at the bottom but stillconnected at the top, like this.

To remove this, all you need to do ispull out one side and detach the pegwhich is located in the inner ashtrayrunner: again this is very easy.

Once one side is loose the other willcome off without any bother.

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Step 5If you want you can remove the lightshutter from the inner part of theouter frame.

All this does is block l ight from thecigar lighter bulb until the ashtrayopens when it allows light to flowdown the ashtray light bar.

I've highlighted this becausesometimes it just falls out and atleast you'll know where it goes back.

Step 6To remove the inner ashtray from

flap insert a screwdriver like in thephoto - keep pressure on the flapwhilst sliding the inner ashtrayoutwards.

You need to get the tray to slide overthe 2 clamps highlighted. It will thenjust slide off.

A lot of troubles with ashtrayssticking can be traced to these 2pieces - they must slide together very

freely.

Lubricate the sliding surfaces withVaseline or similar and checkoperation when the 2 pieces arereassembled.

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Step 7By now the ashtray should be almost fully dismantled. You can remove the inner tray from the innerashtray if you want to clean it. It also helps if it's removed whilst assembling as the view is clearer and itcan be reinserted when the ashtray is fully assembled.

Parts

1. Catch

2. Speed gear

3. Light shutter

4. Spring

5. Inner tray

6. Flap

7. Inner Ashtray

8. Frame

Step 8Now's the time to lubricate all the moving parts: the easier they move the better the ashtray will operate.

To reassemble

1. First assemble the Inner Ashtray to the flap, it just slides in place.2. Reattach the light shutter if removed.3. Keep the inner ashtray in the fully up position and locate onto one of the pegs on the frame, pull the

frame outward slightly to locate the second peg.

8

7

5

4321

6

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4. The inner ashtray and flap are now swinging on the pegs. Keep the top edge firmly against top ofthe frame so the bottom sticks out.

5. Put the spring into place as shownin the photo.

Swing the inner ashtraydownwards whilst still keeping thetop edge against the frame, andtake the hooked end of the springand swing it into the frame whilst

you swing the inner ashtray down.

Ideally get the hooked end of thespring to protrude through thesquare hole in the back of theframe,

Spread the frame slightly in orderto get the pivot points located, oneat a time - best to do the springend first but doesn't really matter.

6. Mount the catch, keeping slight pressure on it so it tries to follow the guide slot. Open and shut theashtray and the catch should just self locate.

7. Press the speed gear back into place. If your ashtray is still very slow in opening and you don't thinkanything is catching you can dismantle the speed gear by pressing a really thin screwdriverbetween the housing and the gear plate

Inside it will be full of heavy oil, try thinning it out with a little WD40 and see how easy the gearmoves after. Be aware though that if you remove the oil completely and substitute even heavy oillike gearbox oil the tray will still flick open very fast. As yet I haven't found anything like VX used.

Once you've taken the ashtray apart a few times, you'll wonder how it caused so many problems in thepast. Don't force anything and have patience.

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Thanks to adamduk for the How To

How To.. Remove the Instrument Binnacle (MK4)

Astra Owners Club Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NOresponsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure howto do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if thismodification is done.

Tools needed

T20 Torx bit,

Small flat blade Screwdriver or penknife

Step 1If fitted, extend and lower the adjustable steeringcolumn to give yourself more room to work

Then using a small flatblade screwdriver or penknifecarefully prise out the two D shaped covers toeither side of the steering column shroud, andremove the 2 T20 Torx screws underneath

Step 2Remove the other 2 T20 Torx screws in the roof ofthe binnacle shroud

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Step 3Then remove the shroud (you will have to squeeze itdownwards a bit).

Make sure you lift the bottom part up over thecolumn first.

Step 4Remove the 2 T20 Torx Screws in the bottomcorner on each side of the instrument binnacle...

Step 5Unlatch the binnacle by moving the yellow lever, atthe top, to the left. You need to lift it slightly beforeyou move it across

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Step 6Lift the binnacle off the mounting, and manoeuvre itout of the dash. It will only come out one way so youneed to

Twist it backwards, so its almost flat

Move the RHS into the dash

Pull the LHS towards you

Rotate and remove the binnacle through the gapin the steering wheel.

Now you can get at the bulbs in the back, if youneed to replace blown ones, or fit LEDS

Only twist them to turn - remove turninganticlockwise, and replace turning clockwise

Refit the instruments, lock with the yellow lever, andcheck all the bulbs light up.

Once youre happy that all is OK, refitting is the reverse of removal

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Thanks to Nrj and Ffoeg for the How ToThanks to Nrj and Ffoeg for the How ToThanks to Nrj and Ffoeg for the How ToThanks to Nrj and Ffoeg for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ Fit BFit BFit BFit Bonnet Liftersonnet Liftersonnet Liftersonnet Lifters


Step 1Step 1Step 1Step 1Check all the parts are included in the package, and then screw the sockets to the end of the struts.

Step 2Step 2Step 2Step 2NoteNoteNoteNote: one lifter is not strong enough to support thebonnet on its own, so you must keep the originalstay in place until both sides are completed

Undo the top (front) bolt on the bonnet hinge

and fit the top mounting to the bonnet on the MK3, themount simply replaces the original bolt (below), whereas onthe MK4 youll need to use the supplied bracket (as shownright), and then replace the bolt.

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Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3MK3s - remove the wing bolt, immediately beforethe hole in the wing (working back from theheadlights).

MK4s - there is no need to remove any bolt fromthe wing as the lower mounting uses the existinghole.

Step 4Step 4Step 4Step 4Fit the lower mount to the wing

MK3s Simply screw the new mounting into thewing bolt hole, remembering to use the suppliedwasher to spread the load (photo right)

MK4s - Fix the mounting to the hole in the front wing andtighten up the nut from underneath. As the hole is quitelarge it is wise to add some support to the mounting withsome cut-down repair washers, top and bottom as shownleft. These can be painted to hide them.

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Step 5Step 5Step 5Step 5Push the struts onto the mountings, with thethicker part towards the top this way they willself lubricate and help to stop the seals fromdrying out.

Its also a god idea to put a small amount ofgrease in the socket before fitting.

Step 6Step 6Step 6Step 6Fit the retaining clips to each joint they slide in through thesmall hole in the socket and then clip into the groove.

Once both sides are done, carefully lower the bonnet andcheck the clearance to ensure that they are not catchinganywhere.

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Thanks to Oddjob & lee gsi for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ Modify the Bonnet PullModify the Bonnet PullModify the Bonnet PullModify the Bonnet Pull on the Astra Mk4.on the Astra Mk4.on the Astra Mk4.on the Astra Mk4.((((forforforfor Aftermarket Grills)Aftermarket Grills)Aftermarket Grills)Aftermarket Grills)


Why do this Mod?Why do this Mod?Why do this Mod?Why do this Mod?

Fitting an aftermarket grill will sometimes leave the bonnet tab sticking proud of the grill whenclosed. This easy mod will move the tab backwards just enough so that it becomes unnoticeablewhen shut, yet still enables the bonnet to be opened easily.

Step 1Step 1Step 1Step 1Open the bonnet and remove the pull tab,by gently easing off the spring washer witha small screwdriver.

Carefully cut off the plastic spring so thetab resembles that shown in the photo.

If fitting an Irmscher Grill, it helps thealignment of the tab if the left hand sidewing is removed to prevent fouling of theslats on the grill, again as shown in thephoto

SSSStep 2tep 2tep 2tep 2Now you can see the hole that the tab wasremoved from on the bracket (on the right).

Drill a new hole, the same size (approx 4mm

diameter), in line with original hole approx10-12mm towards the rear of the catch shown on the left in the photo.

On the other side of the bracket there are 2plastic dimples that need to be made flushby cutting them off with a sharp Stanleyknife or rubbed down with sandpaper

Now you can reassemble the tab to thebracket using the new hole.

Job Done!!

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Thanks to Oddjob & lee gsi for the How To

The bonnet will now look similar to this when closed.

And this when released.

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Thanks to Lord Nikon for the How ToThanks to Lord Nikon for the How ToThanks to Lord Nikon for the How ToThanks to Lord Nikon for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ Fit a BooFit a BooFit a BooFit a Boosssst Gauget Gauget Gauget Gauge



Loosen the highlighted jubilee clips(7mm spanner or socket) and removethe inlet pipe to the left of the enginebay.

There should be enough slack in thewires, so there is no need todisconnect the AFM

Step 2Step 2Step 2Step 2You will see my setup and the arrowindicates the boost pressure pipe tothe gauge.

I fed mine from inside the car, throughthe spare grommet, which is situatedjust above the accelerator pedal thisis accessible from under the dash, byremoving the cover panel above thefootwell (undo the 2 turn clips).

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Thanks to Lord Nikon for the How ToThanks to Lord Nikon for the How ToThanks to Lord Nikon for the How ToThanks to Lord Nikon for the How To

Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3This shows the T piece layout.

Note the pressure crimps on theweaker points of theinstallation.

The pipe to the gauge is 4mm

internal bore. Note the black

pipe running down behind theengine. This is the one thatstarted off connected to thesmall right angle tube.

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Thanks to Oddjob for the How TThanks to Oddjob for the How TThanks to Oddjob for the How TThanks to Oddjob for the How Toooo

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ To change the F17/F18 gearbox oil on the Astra Mk4To change the F17/F18 gearbox oil on the Astra Mk4To change the F17/F18 gearbox oil on the Astra Mk4To change the F17/F18 gearbox oil on the Astra Mk4


Tools required:Tools required:Tools required:Tools required:

11mm socket and ratchet, 13mm ring spanner, 19mm open ended spanner.

Torque wrench.

Loctite thread lock or similar.

Container to catch oil.

Stanley knife or similar (optional)

New sump plate gasket, No.90345227 on F17, No.90523143 on F18

Hylomar gasket paste or similar (optional)

Gearbox oil 1.6L in F17

All photos show F17 gearbox, F18 is very similar so shouldn't cause a problem following this How-To.


To get the best results it's preferable to have the gearbox oil warm, take the car for a short run, 5-6miles to get it nice and warm. I used ramps but axle stands can be used if preferred. Ramp up car orplace on axle stands, allow at least 10mins for the exhaust to cool down as it will be red hot andcould give you a very nasty burn.

StepStepStepStep 2222This is the sump plate youneed to remove to drainthe gearbox oil.

The F17 has 10 bolts

holding it on, the F18 has11 so it's easy to checkwhich you have. The F17 isused on the 1.8 engines,both X18XE1 and Z18XE.The F18 was used on early2.0 Astras.

It's most important thatyou check the gasket youhave is correct BEFOREBEFOREBEFOREBEFOREyou remove the sump

plate, hold it against theplate to check it's correct.

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Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3Using the 11mm socket and ratchet, undo the bolts holding the sump plate: work in a cross wisefashion to relieve the pressure evenly. Have a suitable container under the gearbox to catch the oldoil. The bolts have been fitted using thread lock, they will be hard to undo initially. However, if whenyou are undoing them, they tighten up do not force themdo not force themdo not force themdo not force them - you will strip the thread out of thegearbox if you aren't careful.

Best method is to retighten the bolt as this tends to cut the thread lock off the threads, the bolt

should then come out easier, repeat the process if need be until the bolt feels looser.

StepStepStepStep 4444Leave at least one of the bolts in place but loose. Tap the sump plate with a rubber hammer or piece

of wood, when it starts to give off a hollow sound the plate is due to come off. Allow all the oil todrain and remove the sump plate, check inside the bottom of the sump plate for any undue residue,small pieces of metal etc.

There should be very little on the plate if the box is in decent nick. Anything other than this andconsider having the box checked. Clean the sump plate until it looks like this

Step 5Step 5Step 5Step 5You can see in the photos (below) that small pieces of the old gasket remain, it's vital you remove

them from both the plate and the box; I use a sharp Stanley knife edge on for this.

Check the differential gear for any missing teeth etc if you want.

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Step 6Step 6Step 6Step 6After cleaning the sump plateand box surfaces apply somenon setting gasket paste likeHylomar, this is optional but Iprefer this method in case anyof the surfaces are not totallyflat. Fit the gasket and refit the

plate back onto the box, putting

thread lock on the bolts.

Tighten the bolts in a cross wisemethod and tighten up to therequired torque, see below.

Looks like this, nice and clean

Step 7Step 7Step 7Step 7Lower the car. Park the car on level ground. Remove the reverse light switch, shown in photo(below), and also the gearbox oil level plug, also pictured but on my spare box for clarity. Reverse

light switch is 19mm and level plug is 13mm but you need a proper ring spanner due to its location.

Make sure you clean the area around the reverse light switch before removing it, I used some carb

cleaner which did the job a treat.

Reverse Light Switch Oil Level Plug

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Step 8Step 8Step 8Step 8Fill the gearbox through the reverse light switch - the F17 takes approx 1.6L. When the oil starts todrip through the level plug stop filling and wait for it to stop dripping. Refit and connect the reverselight switch and refit and tighten the level plug.

Take the car for a drive and check for leaks, and then wait a couple of days and recheck the levelagain by removing the level plug.

Torque Wrench settingsTorque Wrench settingsTorque Wrench settingsTorque Wrench settingsNever over tighten bolts in alloy components you may strip the thread or crack the component

Lower cover boltsF18 gear box 40Nm /30lbf ft

F17 (alloy plate) 12Nm /12lbf ftF17 (steel plate) 30Nm /22lbf ft

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Thanks toThanks toThanks toThanks to SSSSpppploodgeloodgeloodgeloodge for the How Tofor the How Tofor the How Tofor the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ Remove the Centre ConsoleRemove the Centre ConsoleRemove the Centre ConsoleRemove the Centre Console


Tools RequiredTools RequiredTools RequiredTools RequiredHead unit removal toolsT20 torx bit/screw driverSmall flat blade Screwdriver


Remove the head unit and cage from the console, using the appropriate removal tools for your

particular type/make.

NoteNoteNoteNote:::: Removing the glove box enables you to get to the wiring at the rear of the head unit ifRemoving the glove box enables you to get to the wiring at the rear of the head unit ifRemoving the glove box enables you to get to the wiring at the rear of the head unit ifRemoving the glove box enables you to get to the wiring at the rear of the head unit ifrequiredrequiredrequiredrequired thisthisthisthis is easy enough to do, by removing the six T20 screws: 3 along the top edis easy enough to do, by removing the six T20 screws: 3 along the top edis easy enough to do, by removing the six T20 screws: 3 along the top edis easy enough to do, by removing the six T20 screws: 3 along the top edge and 3ge and 3ge and 3ge and 3along the bottom, and lialong the bottom, and lialong the bottom, and lialong the bottom, and liftftftft out the glove box, taking care to disconnect the glove box light whilstout the glove box, taking care to disconnect the glove box light whilstout the glove box, taking care to disconnect the glove box light whilstout the glove box, taking care to disconnect the glove box light whilstdoing so.doing so.doing so.doing so.

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Next remove the lower storage compartment,photo right, which is retained by four flaps (2 top& 2 bottom).

If youve got the 4 slot CD holder, its easier toleave that in place and remove it once theconsole is out, if needed.


Open the ashtray and remove the plasticsurround on the cigarette lighter it just levers off with a small screwdriver

Then pull down the metal pop up flap, andremove the 2 outermost torx screws now visible

along the top edge of the ashtray

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Then remove the two remaining torx screws toeither side of the head unit slot (photo belowright).

With all the screws out the centre console, allthat remains is to release the clip right at the topcentre of the console (it just pulls off) and the

console can now be moved outwards by a couple

of inches.


Next step is to remove the heater control box from the console panel its held on by 4 spring clips (2 on the top face and 2 on the bottom).

They are quite strong and youll need to lever them up with a small

screwdriver, just enough to be able to push the control back with yourthumb, and then wedge the clip open with a nail or similar.

Its best to concentrate on one side first, and once thats released, dothe other side. Once youve done all 4, the box will just push out.

Note:Note:Note:Note: Be careful not to put too much strain the heater box, as it canBe careful not to put too much strain the heater box, as it canBe careful not to put too much strain the heater box, as it canBe careful not to put too much strain the heater box, as it candislodgedislodgedislodgedislodge the control cables from the rear.the control cables from the rear.the control cables from the rear.the control cables from the rear.


With the heater control box released, disconnect the loom from

the MFD. Theres a mouse trap type locking clip on it, and all youneed to do is push down on the red arrowed area, and move thehinged part down so it lies flat along the back of the MFD theconnector can now be removed.

And then slide off the connector from the rear of the hazardwarning switch.

The centre console can now be removed from the dashboard.

If you arIf you arIf you arIf you are swapping over consoles, youe swapping over consoles, youe swapping over consoles, youe swapping over consoles, youll need to undo the two torxll need to undo the two torxll need to undo the two torxll need to undo the two torx screws onscrews onscrews onscrews on the MFD and unclipthe MFD and unclipthe MFD and unclipthe MFD and unclipthe central air vents from the back of the console.the central air vents from the back of the console.the central air vents from the back of the console.the central air vents from the back of the console.

Refitting is simply a reverse of the removal procedure.

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HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ FitFitFitFit CruiseCruiseCruiseCruise ControlControlControlControl (MK4)(MK4)(MK4)(MK4)


Can you fit Cruise Control?Can you fit Cruise Control?Can you fit Cruise Control?Can you fit Cruise Control?

You need a drive-by-wire throttle control, if the accelerator pedal is connected to a big black box thenyou have fly-by-wire, if its a cable then its cable-actuated throttle and this guide is useless to you.

CheckCheckCheckCheck 1111 TTTThe ECUhe ECUhe ECUhe ECU

Before buying the parts for this mod, you'll mustcheck that you car is pre-wired. Some 2000 & 01cars don't have the loom in the engine bay, sothis mod wont be possible.

Read through this How To carefully and check allconnections are present before ordering anyparts.

To check if the wiring is there, you need to checkyour ECU plug - The wire from the Clutch switchshould go to pin 10.

Disconnect your ECU plug - It's located at the rearright hand side of your engine block. You needto push the plastic clip down and flip the metallever over to plug. (It can be quite stiff).

You then need to release the tubing and removethe boot off the back off the plug.

Once you've done that, count 10 holes back fromthe front of the plug. Pin 10 should be inbetween a Brown wire (pin9) and a Black Wire(pin11).

If you have a wire there, carry on with the Howtoo......

If it looks like the photo (left). Replace the plugand leave alone.

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CheckCheckCheckCheck 2222 ---- TheTheTheThe stalk loomstalk loomstalk loomstalk loom

Remove the highlighted part in the photo (right)and use a Philips screwdriver to remove thescrew beneath, then turn the steering wheel theother way and do the same on the other side.Once both screws are out, carefully lift off the topcover.

This determines if you have the wiring loom in thesteering column housing - youre looking for aloose 4 pin connector on the indicator loom.

*NOTE* - Some models do NOT have this

connector but have the Clutch switch alreadyfitted. If this is the case CC can't be fitted.

CheckCheckCheckCheck 3333 TTTThehehehe clutch and brakeclutch and brakeclutch and brakeclutch and brake pedalspedalspedalspedals

Remove the drivers side cubby hole by undoingthe 4 x turn screws.

If you have the correct brake switch it will have 4wires going into it as below, if it only has 2 youllneed a new switch.

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The photo (right) is the connector plug for theclutch switch, its located around the clutchcoming from the loom that goes over the footheaters.

Assuming that all the wires and connectershave been found, you can now order the partsand commence fitting.

Parts requiredParts requiredParts requiredParts required

Screwdrivers Philips &, small flatheadStalk Part No.13142073 (26.75 + VAT = 31.41)Clutch Switch Part No.90590574 or 9185907 or 55701396depending on your car (16.45 + VAT =19.32).The clutch switch can be pot luck you'll have to ask your dealer which one is correct for your car (VINnumber)

Total cost - 50.73 (plus any cost for enabling the CC on the Tech2 if required)


Remove the steering column cover as describedabove.

Remove the stalk by depressing the clip asshown, theres a similar one on the other side, itthen just slides out.

Remove the stalk from the connector by lift the 2clips as shown - theres one on the other side too.

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Fit the new stalk, to the connector and remember to fit thesmall 4 pin cruise control loom to the stalk as well.

Once done, refit the stalk to the steering column, and refitthe top cover. It should then look like the photo below


Remove the cover over the pedals byundoing the 2 turn screws on the frontedge and pull it out of the plastic clips at theback.

Then remove the air ducting. To do this, pullout the clip (as shown) on the edge of thedashboard trim. And then remove theducting (with a bit of wiggling)

Youll then be able to get a better view of thetop of the clutch pedal.

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Next to the clutch (at the top) therell be a metalplate with a square hole in it, with a notch onone corner. You have to be a contortionist forthis part, but try to get something to hold theclutch pedal down to make things easier.

Connect the clutch switch loom to the switch; itll

only fit 1 way.

Pull the red part out so that the clips on theplunger can move freely.

Push the switch into the hole with the notch on,and then push the red part back into the clutchswitch - this will secure it.

This is how the switch should look fitted; whenthe clutch is released it should press on theswitch.

Now the clutch switch is in place, put you foot UNDER the clutch pedal and pull it towards you. You'llhear a series of clicks this is the self adjuster on the switch to make sure the switch is active as soon asyou press the clutch pedal.

Refit the air duct and under dash panel

Now go try it out!! If it doesnt work you may need to go on tech2.

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Thanks to john for the How To

How To.. Debadge the Boot

Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibilityfor any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything,leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done.

This is the same process for any Astra, except that the MK4 has 2 holes under the Griffin badge, so dontattempt to remove it unless you have an alternative plan to deal with the exposed holes

Tools required:

Hairdryer

Old credit card or similar plastic card

White spirit

Polish of you choice

Step 1Place the hairdryer at an angle to the badge andgently apply the heat. Then using the corner of acredit card, slowly start prise the badge away fromthe car, taking care not to scratch the paintwork

It will look the photo (right) as the badge starts tocome away.

Important note: dont get to close to the badge withthe hairdryer as it will auto switch off when it gets tohot.

Carry on heating the badge, working your way around

the edge and in towards the middle. Eventually thebadge will come off and the car will look like this

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Step 2Next wash the accumulated dirt from the area

around the badge, so it is clean and looks like this .

Using the hairdryer again, warm up the remainingtape and use the edge of the credit card to carefullyscrape away the remaining thick pieces of tape andglue residue.

With the best of the old tape out the way, remove any

remaining old glue with some white spirit and a softclean cloth

Step 3Finally give the area a good polish and the final look isachieved.

Step4Repeat the process for the other two badges on the

chrome strip

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When all three are done, stepback and admire your new

smooth back end

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Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ DeDeDeDe----lock the Drivers Doorlock the Drivers Doorlock the Drivers Doorlock the Drivers Door


Why Do this Mod?Why Do this Mod?Why Do this Mod?Why Do this Mod?

The drivers side lock on an Astra G is a reasonably well known security weak point. Anyonewith knowledge of this can easily get round the deadlocking system and open the door. Thismodification remedies that buy removing the weak point altogether.

It looks better

Parts neededParts neededParts neededParts neededRear Drivers Side Handle (no lock hole) and Backing Plate.


Firstly remove drivers door card as detailed inanother Astra-Sport How To

Once the cards are off and safely out of theway, carefully peel back the plastic liner fromthe top rear edge. Take a look inside and youllsee the view as in the picture to the right

Undo the two fastenings (one nut and one Torxscrew in the red squares) that hold on theyellow plastic cover.

Carefully waggle the yellow cover off andremove.

Remove the 2nd nut on the back of handle.

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Now you can get at the lockmechanism (shown removed fromthe car for clarity)

Carefully lift the mechanism off thetwo mounting studs and tease theend of the push rod out of the lowermounting (yellow square), and

remove.


You should now be able to see theback of the handle mechanism,which looks like this

Carefully pop the retaining clip (redsquare) off the push rod, tease therod out of the hole in the white leverand remove from car keep the rodhandy as youll need this again.

Now depress the three clips around

the edge of the handle (yellowsquares) and carefully remove thehandle push the bottom edge outfirst. The handle should now liftaway from the car

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Refit the de-lock handle in the reverse of the above making sure the 3 clips engage securely on thebodywork.

Next refit the pushrod, saved from Step 3 checking the handle operates correctly. There is anadjuster on the bottom end off the pushrod to adjust the length if needed, but it should be OK as it is.Once all is well, refit the clip to the rod on the end of the white lever.

Fit the new backing plate do up both retaining nuts do not over tighten the nuts on the rear of thehandle or they will 'spin' in the plastic handle and youll never get it off again.

Do not refit the yellow plastic cover as it will catch on the larger counter weight of the new handle.

Check all is working OK.

Refit door card job done.

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Thanks to M40 COO for the How ToThanks to M40 COO for the How ToThanks to M40 COO for the How ToThanks to M40 COO for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ DerestrictedDerestrictedDerestrictedDerestricted the Airbthe Airbthe Airbthe Airboxoxoxox


Why do This Mod?Why do This Mod?Why do This Mod?Why do This Mod?Inside the standard airbox there are two pipes that restrict airflow within the box. Removing thesepipes will make the engine more responsive, and may liberate a few BHP in the process especiallywhen done in conjunction with an aftermarket panel filter, and the Vectra C Inlet Pipe mod (seeother Astra-Sport How Tos for further information)

NoteNoteNoteNote the example shown is a 1.6 MK4 Astra, but the process is similar for all models


Remove the top of the airbox by releasing the clips(circled blue) as shown, and the hose clip (circledgreen) holding the intake feed pipe to the airbox.

Remove any other pipes that may be attached tothe lid they just unclip and lift off.

Once done, remove the airbox lid for the car.

SSSStep2tep2tep2tep2

On the underside of the lid you will see a coneshaped pipe - It is held in place by the two lugs(circled blue).

Push these inwards whilst applying pressure topush the pipe out of the lid

Thats the first pipe removed.

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Thanks to M40 COO for the How ToThanks to M40 COO for the How ToThanks to M40 COO for the How ToThanks to M40 COO for the How To


Its easier to take the base of the airbox off the carfor the next pipe.

Remove the panel filter, and place it somewhereclean and out of the way.

Now pull the base of the airbox towards the front of

the car, until the pins come clear of the mounting

bracket. Lift the rear of the box over the bracket, andslide the lower half backwards and out of the car.


The lower pipe is held in placeby two lugs; however you canonly get to one from theoutside of the box (circled

blue).

Put a large screwdriver in the hole and push firmly to releasethe lug, pushing it into the airbox.

Then pull and wiggle thepipe from the inside toremove it completely.

StepStepStepStep 5555

Refit the lower section,remembering to locate theintake feed correctly.

Finally replace the filter, andthen refit the lid, outlet pipe

and any other hoses disturbedduring removal.

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Thanks to JJ for the How ToThanks to JJ for the How ToThanks to JJ for the How ToThanks to JJ for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ Detail You CarDetail You CarDetail You CarDetail You Car


This is a short guide to help anyone detail their car. The good thing is that the all materials and toolsused are easy to source.

These are the stages to keep a car looking its best. Whether on new or old paint-work, this systemworks. On certain colours, different polishes and waxes may look better/worse than others. Thepolishing stages can be done with a PC or rotary and hand.

Stage 1Stage 1Stage 1Stage 1 WashingWashingWashingWashing

Firstly you must have a clean car to start with, so washing properly is a valuable first step; you alsoneed the correct tools to work with

Two bucketsTwo or more mittsA good waffle weave towel to dry

Some car wash clear coat safe stuff too!

Just now many good washes are available, personally I opt for.

Meguiars Soft wash gelMeguiars NXT (removes more protection than soft wash)1Z Perls Monthly/Weekly depending on dirt build up.Poorboys slick suds

Fill one bucket with carwash and water solution and the other with warm water. The carwashsolution is to be used with a clean mitt only, and the other bucket is to dunk the used mitt to clean offany particles that may scratch the paint. Start by washing from roof down (equally) - dont do roof to

skirt on passenger side then move onto roof to skirt on driver. Use one mitt for the roof to door andthe other for door to skirt.

Then just hose down and dry thoroughly with a Waffle Weave (WW)

Step 2Step 2Step 2Step 2 ClayingClayingClayingClaying

Once you have cleaned the car, you want to clay it, using some new carwash and water solution forlubrication just put some on the area with the mitt; make sure the clay has some solution on it tooand rub back and forth, check your work and dont lean too heavily. Turn the clay when you see itgetting dirty.

Next you may want to wash again or just rinse depending on your personal preference.

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Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3 SSSSurfaceurfaceurfaceurface AAAAnalysisnalysisnalysisnalysis

Look around the car looking for any deep scratches, swirls etc. Evaluate what polish you would wantto attack the car with to get it ready for some sealant.

Apply your choice of polish to the terry towel or applicator pad (terry towel has more of a bite and isbetter for oxidisation) then rub north-south, east-west and diagonals, never in a circle.

For this step I use, and have access to, a range of polishes, but the ones I would recommend are.

Poorboys SSR2.51Z Intensive PolishMeguiars Deep Crystal Stage 1 paint cleanerDual Action Cleaner PolishOptimum Polish

Once you have worked in the product, remove with a micro fibre polishing towel - make sure it isplush and is of high quality.

Step 4Step 4Step 4Step 4 PerfectingPerfectingPerfectingPerfecting

Now you have a nice looking base for some perfecting. The previous step is to flatten out theclear/single stage and make sure it is as scratch free and swirl free as possible.

So you now want to perfect that finish with a finer polish such as;

SSR1 (Metallic)Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Dark Colours)1Z Paint Polish (Dark Colours)3M Machine Polish (Dark Colours)Meguiars Deep Crystal Polish (Dark Colours)Meguiars new car glaze #7 (Dark colours)Meguiars #80 speed glaze (Red, black etc)

Step 5Step 5Step 5Step 5 SealingSealingSealingSealing

Once you have polished the car now, its ready to be sealed. This is just a simple wipe over with yourfavourite sealant; some favourites of mine just now are

Ex-P (Reflective)EX (Depth)NXT (has slight cleaners so may remove some glaze) (Metallic)Autoglym Gloss (Shine)Menzerna FMJ (Flake, Reflective)4 star UPP (Flake, Reflective)

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After sealing its best to wait 24 hours before applying another coat or adding a wax.

24 hours have elapsed and your car has some dust on it - you can wash or quick detail. With Quickdetail, you just simply spray and wipe to expose your sealed surface. Make sure you have enoughlubrication or you will scratch the surface.

Now here is the choice, many of todays sealants are rumoured to be layerable, although there areonly a few that have been proved to be. In my opinion, I would add one more layer and thats it(unless you are working with an acrylic or layerable product), as it gives a more even coverage. If it

did not cure or bite properly the last time, chances are it will this time.

Step 6Step 6Step 6Step 6 WaxingWaxingWaxingWaxing

Wait another 24 hours and apply your favourite wax. Dont ruin it now by reaching for the turtle wax

extreme. Invest in a good wax e.g;

P21s (Flake)Clearkote Carnauba Moose (Dark Colours)S100 (Flake)Souveran Paste Wax (Gloss, depth)Poorboys Nattys (Gloss and depth)

Meguiars #16 (Depth, Flake, Gloss)

Step 7Step 7Step 7Step 7 Wheels & TrimWheels & TrimWheels & TrimWheels & Trim

The wheels and trim were left out as everyone has their own choice of what they do. Although agood wheel cleaner like Meguiars/Poorboys etc is a must as some of the other brands (acid based)can destroy the finish if not compatible with the wheels.

A good idea is to mix twice the normal washing strength of shampoo to test first on delicatealloys/chrome wheels etc.

A handy tip is to polish and seal the wheels after they are completely clean to help with futurewashing.

Trim can be dressed in many finishes from satin to gloss. The protectants normally state what finish isleft on the container.

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Further Help and informationFurther Help and informationFurther Help and informationFurther Help and information

For help on choosing the correct product for your needs, go to the experts

http://reviews.autopia.org/

While you are there sign up too, for excellent advice and lots of information.

http://autopia.org

All products can be bought from various website based companies, here are just a few.

www.seriousperformance.co.ukwww.cleanandshiny.co.ukwww.erazer.co.ukwww.thepolishingcompany.co.ukhttp://www.autopia-carcare.com

Finally an excellent step by step video to ultimate paint protection and preparation.

http://www.guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=31&page=3

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Thanks to Buster Sri for the How ToThanks to Buster Sri for the How ToThanks to Buster Sri for the How ToThanks to Buster Sri for the How To

How To.. Fit Speedo Dial Rings (MK4)

Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for anydamaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leaveit to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done.

Tools requiredTools requiredTools requiredTools requiredT20 torx bit/screwdriver

Small flat bladed screwdriver


Locate and remove the four screws holding the instrument shroud to the dash board there are twoat the top and one each side of the steering column shroud behind plastic covers, that need to begently prised out.

Once these 4 are out, simply pull the shroud forwards and ease it out sideways from behind thesteering wheel.


Next feel along the top edge of the binnacle andlocate the ends of the clips that hold the Perspexcover on there are 4 along the top edge(about1 inch back) and two along the bottom.

Press these in one at a time whilst carefullylevering the cover forward. Once all are releasedlift the cover out.

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Thanks to Buster Sri for the How ToThanks to Buster Sri for the How ToThanks to Buster Sri for the How ToThanks to Buster Sri for the How To


Give the rings a clean to remove any grease ordirt and fit them to the dials.

Depending on the make/fit these may eitherjust push in, or require some form of adhesiveto hold them in.

Once all are fitted (and any glue has dried) refit

all the part in reverse order making sure toclean the perspex of any fingerprints and dustbefore refitting.

When all is done in its place, sit back and admire your results of your work..

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Thanks to Raz for the How To

How To.. Fit a Mk2 DigiDash to a Mk1

Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibilityfor any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything,leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done.

Parts Required

DigiDash from a Mk2, with both connecter plus and plenty of spare loom attached

Gearbox Transducer, with plug and plenty of loom attached Mk2 instrument surround panel

When you remove the DigiDash from the Mk2, make sure you get both connector plugs with plenty of wireto make connecting it up easier. The same goes for the Transducer and the plug this is located on thegearbox where the Mk1 speedo cable would go.

The plastic surround is needed because the DigiDash slopes the opposite way to the Mk1 analogue clocksand without this youll have a gap.

Procedure

Remove the clocks and speedo cable, then cut your loom close to the plugs and wire in the DigiDash asfollows:-

Mk1 Loom Function DigiDash Plugs

Blue/Black (fuel gauge) Blue/Black

Grey/Green (hazard light flasher) White/Yellow

Blue (temperature gauge) Blue

Blue/Green (oil light) Blue/Green

Brown/White (handbrake warning lamp) Brown/White

Green (rev counter) Green

White (Main beam warning lamp) White

Blue/White (battery voltage reader) Blue/White

Brown Join all Brown wires to the single one on the Mk1 loom

Black Join all Black wires to the single one on the Mk1 loom

Black/White/Green Not used - this is the feed for the single tell tale indicator light

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Thanks to Raz for the How To

Left and Right Indicator Tickers

DigiDash Plugs Function MK1 loom

Black/White (indicator left ticker) Join to the top wireon your indicator stalk

Black/Green (indicator right ticker) Join to the bottom wireon your indicator stalk

To wire these in, remove the indicator stalk and cut the appropriate wire, then join it to the one from the

DigiDash loom: i.e. on a block connector, there will be two wires in one end and one wire in the other.

The wire from the DigiDash will need to be extended to reach your indicator stalk, but the wires will beBlack/White and Black/Green - the same on your Mk1 indicator stalk. These must work as not havingthese flashing is an MOT failure!

TransducerThere are 3 wires on the transducer, wire these as follows:

Red/Blue goes to Red/Blue wire on the DigiDash loomBlack goes to the positive terminal on your batteryBrown goes to the negative terminal on your battery

The black plastic part of the transducer simply screws into the Mk1 speedo spindle and to my knowledge,fits all Vauxhall MK1 and Mk2 gearboxs whether 1.2 or F20!

Rev CounterIf you are fitting the Digital Dash to a Mk1 that does not have a Rev counter on the original clock, run awire to a spare terminal on your coil then connect this to the green wire on the DigiDash plug.

Fitting inThe two locating lugs on the bottom of the DigiDash will need trimming down to fit the Mk1 holes.

You will also need to cut a section from the Mk2 surround: cut this as close as possible to the fold in theplastic to ensure this fits snugly, and then bond that part to your Mk1 surround. This is needed becausewithout it you would be able see behind the dash, and thats not good!

Choke LightAs the Mk2 16v had an auto choke, you will need to trim down your existing light holder and fit this into thesecond slot from the right in the dash so when you pull on your choke, it illuminates on the dash.

When all fitted back together, and admire!

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HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ Remove DoorRemove DoorRemove DoorRemove Door CCCCards (3dr)ards (3dr)ards (3dr)ards (3dr)


Tools requiredTools requiredTools requiredTools required

1 Small electricians screwdriver

1 Philips No.2 screwdriver

Step 1Step 1Step 1Step 1Using the electricians screwdriver, removethe door pins by prising out the orangetab on one side.

Once the side has lifted, you'll see a recesson the top of the tab - insert the

screwdriver in there and gently lever outthe other side. Once both sides are out, liftaway door pin.

Step 2Step 2Step 2Step 2Now remove the inside mirror trim/tweeter housing by grasping it on thewidow frame edge and pull sharply. The

panel should pop off easily (if not, use thesmall screwdriver as a lever - but be carefulnot to scratch the paintwork).

Usually one or two plastic retaining clipsare left attached to the door - prise theseout and refit to the trim panel. There's noneed to disconnect the tweeter - just leaveit dangling

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Step3Step3Step3Step3Using the small screwdriver again, insert itinto the gap between the grab handle andthe arm rest and lever the grab handle off.

Once this has lifted, carefully remove thecover on the grab handle by lifting the coveraway from the door card, working towardsthe front top corner of the door.

Pull the door catch out and lift the coveraway.

Disconnect the electric window switch (andmirror switch if doing the drivers side).

StStStStep4ep4ep4ep4Now using the Philips screwdriver - undo thefour screws under the grab handle(arrowed).....

.....and the three along the bottom edge ofthe door

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StepStepStepStep 4444With all screws removed; lift the bottom rearcorner of the door card away from the door.Pull sharply outwards to release the twoplastic trim clips on the rear edge - these justpop out. Then work along the bottom edge torelease the single centre clip, and finallyrepeat the 'sharp pull' on the leading edge to

release the final two clips.

Step 5Step 5Step 5Step 5Next use the Philips screwdriver to prise the top of the door card (weather-strip) off the inner doorskin, door by inserting it into the gap on the top edge of the card, near the tweeter housing.

Once one end is lifted, work towards the back of the card, prising it upwards and lift the door card

away from the door slightly.

Step 6Step 6Step 6Step 6Finally prise out the blue clip that locates thedoor catch cable to the inside of the door cardand release the nipple on the end of the cable- pull the door catch whilst manoeuvring thecable and it comes straight out

Lift away the door card.

Refit in reverse order and remember toconnect everything back up.

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Thanks to pardoe16v for the How ToThanks to pardoe16v for the How ToThanks to pardoe16v for the How ToThanks to pardoe16v for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ Remove/Remove/Remove/Remove/Replace the EGR Valve (X18XE1Replace the EGR Valve (X18XE1Replace the EGR Valve (X18XE1Replace the EGR Valve (X18XE1))))


This How To describes the method to remove/replace the EGR from the X18XE1 engine the processis similar for other engines fitted with an EGR, but the actual location and tools needed may varyaccordingly.

Tools NeededTools NeededTools NeededTools Needed

Torx Bit T30Torx Socket E12And required drivers/RatchetsCups of tea if its as cold as it is now!!!

Step 1Step 1Step 1Step 1Open bonnet and remove the two small Torxbolts at the top of the engine cover (T30) andthen remove the oil filler cap. Also remove thepositive lead on the battery to prevent anyaccidents from occurring.

Remove the engine cover by lifting it from theback

NOTE : Remove the keys from the ignition andDO NOT replace until the work is complete

Step 2Step 2Step 2Step 2You can now see the EGR valve in the abovepicture, on the left, (FYI the long plastic typeobject across the engine rocker cover is thecoilpack.)

Remove the wiring harness plug on top of theEGR valve it simply unclips.

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Thanks to pardoe16v for the How ToThanks to pardoe16v for the How ToThanks to pardoe16v for the How ToThanks to pardoe16v for the How To

Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3Remove the EGR valve using an E12 Torx socket on the two bolts holding it down.

Once these two bolts are out, the EGR valve will simply lift away.

Either clean out the EGR valve with carb cleaner or replace it (which is recommended). Always use anew gasket when refitting.

StepStepStepStep 4444To refit the new one, simply bolt it back down making sure the metal gasket is the right way aroundand correctly fitted, then plug it back in.

Torque wrench setting - 20Nm or 15lbf ft

Replace the engine cover and battery cable.

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HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ Fit Electric Door MirrorsFit Electric Door MirrorsFit Electric Door MirrorsFit Electric Door Mirrors


Parts Required.Parts Required.Parts Required.Parts Required.

Electric door mirrors (near side and off-side)

Mirror switch (Part #9226863)

Gusset x2 (Part #9100286/9100285)

Relay (Part #24432680)

Fuse 10A (Part # 91153942)

Note:Note:Note:Note: Most Astra Gs will have the wiring in the door ready for you to fit the Electric mirror. However earliercars dont and to fit them will mean replacing the whole wiring loom in both doors. This is possible, but a big

job.!! Therefore this How To assumes you have the wiring already in place.

Step 1Step 1Step 1Step 1 ---- Removing the Tweeter GussetRemoving the Tweeter GussetRemoving the Tweeter GussetRemoving the Tweeter GussetTo remove the Tweeter gusset, squeeze your fingers between the front window and trim andcarefully pull. They are held on with three small plastic push studs. They can easily break, but arepence to replace from Vauxhall (90560163). Remove the wire from the tweeter.

(You may be able to see a wire, just below the tweeter wire. This will be for your Electric Mirror andyou may not need to take your door car off in that case go straight to Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3)

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Step 2Step 2Step 2Step 2 ---- Removing Door CardRemoving Door CardRemoving Door CardRemoving Door CardPrise off the cover on the door handle, itstight but will come off with a little force.Then undo the four screws you can now seeunder the handle.

(If you can see a grey L-shaped plug and canget to it, you wont have to remove the door

card. - this plug needs to be fed through the

blank just in front of the release handle)

Undo the three screws at the bottom of thedoor. Once the screws are removed, pullthe door card from the bottom rear corner,popping off the larger Plastic Push studs(90321122).

Using a flat blade screw driver and a bit ofwood to protect your door card, carefully prise up the weather seal from the door frame, its easier ifyouve lowered your window first.

Remove the cable from the back of the door release handle and unplug the Electric window switch.

You should then be able to see the Electric Window wires - One black Square plug for the mirror andone grey L-shaped plug for the switch.

Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3 ---- Replacing the mirrors.Replacing the mirrors.Replacing the mirrors.Replacing the mirrors.With the front door open, unscrew thethree crosshead screws holding the mirrorin place. Then lift away the mirror fromunder the rubber strip.

Clean off any dirt thats found its way underthe plastic trim.

Fit the new mirror ensuring the plastic tagsits under the rubber seal.

Connect the black square plug into the backof your Electric mirror.

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Step 4Step 4Step 4Step 4 ---- Refit the door cardRefit the door cardRefit the door cardRefit the door card

Ensure the blanking plate for the mirror switch, and electric window switch has been removed andcheck all the plastic trim studs are O.K.Refit the lock release handle to the cable.Offer up the door card and pull the relevant wiring through the correct switch holes.Refit the weather-strip on the door card to the door just lower it on and push downwardsSharply tap the push studs back in place.

Plug in the Electric window/mirror switches and fit them to the door card.

Refit all the screws and interior handle cover.

Step 5Step 5Step 5Step 5 ---- Fitting the new gusset.Fitting the new gusset.Fitting the new gusset.Fitting the new gusset.

Unclip the tweeter from your old interiorgusset and fit it to the new one.Swap the three small push stud over too.Then just press the gusset back on the doorframe.

Fitting the Passenger side mirror is exactly

the same.

SSSStep 6tep 6tep 6tep 6 ---- Fuse and relay fittingFuse and relay fittingFuse and relay fittingFuse and relay fitting

Remove the fuse box cover and push the

10A fuse into slot 41. (This will allow theelectric mirrors to move.)

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Fit the relay into the shown position. - Thiswill enable the heating elements to work(when you turn on the rear screen de-mist)

Finally switch on the ignition, checkeverything is working and adjust themirrors.

Job Done.

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ThanksThanksThanksThanks to Darrylto Darrylto Darrylto DarrylB for the How ToB for the How ToB for the How ToB for the How To

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ FitFitFitFit a Powerflex Front Engine Mounta Powerflex Front Engine Mounta Powerflex Front Engine Mounta Powerflex Front Engine Mount ((((MK4MK4MK4MK4 F23 onlyF23 onlyF23 onlyF23 only))))


Why do this Mod?Why do this Mod?Why do this Mod?Why do this Mod?The standard front engine mount is of a voided design, meaning its got holes in it. This limits the

amount of engine vibration transmitted to the shell, which is all well and good in a standard car.However the rubber weakens with age/power increases and can cause the engine to flex too muchmaking gear changes difficult. Too much engine flexing can also damage radiator and intercoolermountings on Turbo cars fitted with powerpipes. An essential mod for those with short shiftersAn essential mod for those with short shiftersAn essential mod for those with short shiftersAn essential mod for those with short shifters....

TTTTools requiredools requiredools requiredools required:

T20 Torx bit (male) 16mm socket16mm spanner Trolley jack and axel standsLump of wood E18 Torx socket (female)WD40 Thread lockTorque Wrench

Time required: 1-2 hours.

Step 1Step 1Step 1Step 1Remove the front bumper (see How To section) to make access a lot easier. It also means you donthave to jack the car up so high off the ground, making things a little a safer.

StepStepStepStep 2:2:2:2:Spray WD40 or similar on the bolts andlet it soak in. In the meantime, raisethe front passenger side of the car: Idid this by placing the jack under thesub frame mounting and lifting the carhigh enough to get the axel standunderneath. Repeat for the other side.

Next, position the jack with a block ofwood on the head, under where thegearbox joins the engine and jack it upjust enough to take the weight of the

engine, and no more!!.

The photo shows the WD40 going towork on the mount:

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ThanksThanksThanksThanks to Darrylto Darrylto Darrylto DarrylB for the How ToB for the How ToB for the How ToB for the How To

StepStepStepStep 3333Using the 16mm spanner and socket, undo the sub frame-to-mount nut, remove the bolt. Then usingthe E18 female torx socket, undo the 2 mount-to-gearbox bolts. The mount should be easy to removthen.

Step 4Step 4Step 4Step 4Give the mount and rubber a good clean to remove all dirt and grit and then insert the two polybushes on either side of the mount. Note: the Powerflex bushes are handed and so must be fittedto the correct side, so that they sit flush in the mount.

SSSStep 5tep 5tep 5tep 5Offer up the mount back up to the car andloosely fit the mount-to-gearbox bolts first,REMEMBER to put a good squeeze of thread lockon the bolts first!

Align the bolt up with hole and attach the nut on

the mount-to-sub frame side, again using plentyof thread lock to be sure.Go round and tighten each of the bolts to thespecified torque.

Mount-Gearbox - 60Nm (44 lbf ft)Mount-Sub frame - 55Nm (41 lbf ft)

StepStepStepStep 6666Lower the jack from the engine, and then lower the car to the ground.Finally, refit the bumper and the job is done!

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Thanks to Keif for the HowThanks to Keif for the HowThanks to Keif for the HowThanks to Keif for the How ToToToTo

HowHowHowHow TTTToooo........ Remove the FrontRemove the FrontRemove the FrontRemove the Front Bumper (Bumper (Bumper (Bumper (Astra G)Astra G)Astra G)Astra G)


Tools RequiredTools RequiredTools RequiredTools Required

No.20 Torx bit (star shaped).Small flat bladed screw-driver.A pair of long nose pliers.

Step 1Step 1Step 1Step 1Turn your front wheels to full right lock;this will enable you to get to the screw inthe left wheel arch.

Using the No20 Torx bit, undo bothscrews around the wheel arch.

Then turn your wheel to full left lock andrepeat for the other side.

NoteNoteNoteNote This bumper is fitted with anIrmscher lip.

Step 2Step 2Step 2Step 2Working under the car you need to locate

the three clips holding the bottom of thebumper to the car.

To remove these clips, you have to extractthe pin in the centre, and then pull theouter away. I found it easier to lever outthe pin with a flat bladed screwdriver and

pull it out with some long nose pliers.

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Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3Before removing any more clips, release the bracketsat each wheel arch - To do this, carefully prise outthe tab at the top of the arch.

The bumper is also slightly held in under the wingbut it should release quite easily.

Step 4Step 4Step 4Step 4All that is now holding the bumper on is thetwo clips at the top.

To access these clips, open your bonnet andremove then in the same way as clip B

If you rest your knees against the bumper itwont fall as you remove the last clip.

Your bumper should then just lift away fromthe car and rest on the blanket

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Youll need to unclip the air temperature sensor (right)

And the front fog lights, if fitted (below)

Then your bumpershould be off the car.

ReFitting.ReFitting.ReFitting.ReFitting.To refit your bumper it is,in true Haynes manualstyle, exactly theopposite of removal. Butthings to watch out forare.

When refitting thebrackets in behind thearch, the bumper maynot sit correctly underthe wing. A soft tap onthe bumper with thepalm of your hand willhelp it back in place.

When fitting Clip B it iseasier to fit the outerpart of in position then

push the pin into place.

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