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The Secret Life of Soap
Kevin M. Dunn
Spring 2011
$Revision: 1.2 $
1
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Soap Research at Hampen-Sydney College
Copyright 2011 Kevin M. Dunn
Soap Research
Soda Ash and Other White Blemishes
Background Chemistry
Sulfated Castor Oil
Jojoba Oil and its Substitutes
The Secret Life of Soap
2
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Acknowledgements
Acknowledgements
Mike Lawson/Columbus Foods
Hampden-Sydney College
Cole Hawthorne (soda ash/partial gel)
Arne Ulbrich (sulfated castor oil)
Avery Moncure (microscopy)
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All Things White
All Things White
Not every white blemish is soda ash.
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All Things White
NotSoda Ash
High-Water Olive Oil Soap
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All Things White
NotSoda Ash
Partial Gel Olive Oil Soap
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All Things White
NotSoda Ash
Medium-Water Palm Oil Soap Soap
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All Things White
Soda Ash
Medium-Water Palm Oil Soap Soap
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All Things White
Soda Ash
Medium-Water Duckbars Delight
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All Things White
All Things White
Not every white blemish is soda ash.
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All Things White
All Things White
Not every white blemish is soda ash.
Soda Ash forms only at the surface
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All Things White
All Things White
Not every white blemish is soda ash.
Soda Ash forms only at the surface
Soda Ash forms a layer, like icing on a cake
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All Things White
All Things White
Not every white blemish is soda ash.
Soda Ash forms only at the surface
Soda Ash forms a layer, like icing on a cake Soda Ash washes off with water
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All Things White
All Things White
Not every white blemish is soda ash.
Soda Ash forms only at the surface
Soda Ash forms a layer, like icing on a cake Soda Ash washes off with water
Soda Ash is not very soluble in alcohol
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Soda Ash
Soda Ash
Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.
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Soda Ash
Soda Ash
Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.
2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O
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Soda Ash
Soda Ash
Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.
2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O
Na2CO3+ CO2+ H2O = 2 NaHCO3
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Soda Ash
Soda Ash
Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.
2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O
Na2CO3+ CO2+ H2O = 2 NaHCO3
Appears wherever lye meets air:
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Soda Ash
Soda Ash
Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.
2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O
Na2CO
3+ CO
2+ H
2O = 2 NaHCO
3
Appears wherever lye meets air:
lye spills left to dry
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Soda Ash
Soda Ash
Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.
2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O
Na2CO
3+ CO
2+ H
2O = 2 NaHCO
3
Appears wherever lye meets air:
lye spills left to dry
soap made with excess lye
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Soda Ash
Soda Ash
Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.
2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O
Na2CO
3+ CO
2+ H
2O = 2 NaHCO
3
Appears wherever lye meets air:
lye spills left to dry
soap made with excess lye
raw soap left uncovered
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Soda Ash
Soda Ash
Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.
2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O
Na2CO
3+ CO
2+ H
2O = 2 NaHCO
3
Appears wherever lye meets air:
lye spills left to dry
soap made with excess lye
raw soap left uncovered
soap un-molded too soon
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Soda Ash Prevention
Soda Ash Prevention
Double-check the saponification values
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Soda Ash Prevention
Soda Ash Prevention
Double-check the saponification values
Cover raw soap while it is in the mold
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Soda Ash Prevention
Soda Ash Prevention
Double-check the saponification values
Cover raw soap while it is in the mold
Do not un-mold soap until it is tongue-neutral
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Soda Ash Prevention
Soda Ash Prevention
Double-check the saponification values
Cover raw soap while it is in the mold
Do not un-mold soap until it is tongue-neutral
Soda Ash is easily removed with water
B k d Ch i t
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Background Chemistry
Background Chemistry
Oil and water dont mix.
Background Chemistry
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Background Chemistry
Oil and Water
Background Chemistry
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Background Chemistry
Nerds and Cheerleaders
Oil, Lye and and Soap
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
Oil and Lye
Oil, Lye and and Soap
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, y p
One Soap
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
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Soap: A Nerdy Cheerleader
Oil, Lye and and Soap
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Stearic Acid, Oleic Acid
Sulfated Castor Oil
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Sulfated Castor Oil
What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?
Sulfated Castor Oil
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Sulfated Castor Oil
What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?
First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)
Sulfated Castor Oil
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Sulfated Castor Oil
What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?
First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)
AKA Turkey Red Oil
Sulfated Castor Oil
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Sulfated Castor Oil
What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?
First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)
AKA Turkey Red Oil
Unlike soap, it does not form soap scum in hard water
Sulfated Castor Oil
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Sulfated Castor Oil
What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?
First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)
AKA Turkey Red Oil
Unlike soap, it does not form soap scum in hard water
Less alkaline than soap
Sulfated Castor Oil
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Sulfated Castor Oil
What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?
First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)
AKA Turkey Red Oil
Unlike soap, it does not form soap scum in hard water
Less alkaline than soap
Liquid, not solid
Sulfated Castor Oil
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Sulfated Castor Oil
What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?
First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)
AKA Turkey Red Oil
Unlike soap, it does not form soap scum in hard water
Less alkaline than soap
Liquid, not solid
Made by reacting castor oil with sulfuric acid
Sulfated Castor Oil
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Ricinoleic Acid, Sulforicinoleic Acid
Castor vs Sulfated Castor Oil
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Castor vs Sulfated Castor Oil
Castor SV (ppt KOH) AV (ppt KOH) Water Content
Soapers Choice 184 0 0%
Sulfated Castor SV (ppt KOH) AV (ppt KOH) Water Content
Soapers Choice 97 40 30%
SouthernSoapers
95 23 29%
Organic
Creations
82 58 20%
Castor vs Sulfated Castor Oil
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Castor vs Sulfated Castor Oil
Castor oil is widely used for making soap; sulfated castor oil isnot. You may experiment with sulfated castor oil in soap, but you
must use the appropriate saponification value.
Jojoba
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Jojoba
What is jojoba oil, and what substitutes are available for it?
Jojoba
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Jojoba
What is jojoba oil, and what substitutes are available for it?
Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax
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Jojoba
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Jojoba
What is jojoba oil, and what substitutes are available for it?
Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax
Chemistry similar to spermaceti and sebum
Normally about $6/lb
Jojoba
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Jojoba
What is jojoba oil, and what substitutes are available for it?
Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax
Chemistry similar to spermaceti and sebum
Normally about $6/lb
Currently $10-20/lb
Jojoba
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Jojoba
What is jojoba oil, and what substitutes are available for it?
Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax
Chemistry similar to spermaceti and sebum
Normally about $6/lb
Currently $10-20/lb
How does jojoba differ from soapmaking oils?
Jojoba, Lye and and Soap
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Jojoba and Lye
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Jojoba, Lye and and Soap
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Cetyl Alcohol
Jojoba Substitutes
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Jojoba Substitutes for Soap
Cetyl Alcohol, $4.88/lb (LotionCrafters.com)
Cetearyl Alcohol, $4.99/lb (LotionCrafters.com)
Behenyl Alcohol, $8.00/lb (TheHerbarie.com) Oleyl Alcohol, $106/lb (ScienceLab.com)
Beeswax, $3.98/lb (SoapersChoice.com)
Candelilla Wax, $6.30/lb (CamdenGrey.com)
Cetyl Esters, $6.38/lb (LotionCrafters.com)
Carnauba wax, $6.77/lb (CamdenGrey.com)
Delight
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Delight
Delight1000= Olive390Palm280Coconut280Castor50
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Delight
li h
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Delight
Delight1000= Olive390Palm280Coconut280Castor50
Lye = 50.00% NaOH, 50.00% distilled water
SSVof Delight is 150.8 ppt NaOH Delight1000Lye288
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More Lyes
M L
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More Lyes
Lye = 50.00% NaOH, 50.00% distilled water
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More Lyes
M L
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More Lyes
Lye = 50.00% NaOH, 50.00% distilled water
Delight1000Lye288Aq0(11.18% Water)
Delight1000Lye288Aq72(15.88% Water)Delight1000Lye288Aq144(20.11% Water)
Delight1000Lye288Aq216(23.93% Water)
Delight1000Lye288Aq288(27.41% Water)
More Lyes
M L
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More Lyes
Lye = 50.00% NaOH, 50.00% distilled water
Delight1000Lye288Aq0(Low-Water)
Delight1000Lye288Aq72Delight1000Lye288Aq144(Medium-Water)
Delight1000Lye288Aq216
Delight1000Lye288Aq288(High-Water)
Lye Concentration
L e Con entration
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Lye Concentration
What is the normal, correct, or standard lye concentration?
Lye Concentration
Lye Concentration
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Lye Concentration
What is the normal, correct, or standard lye concentration?
Ann Bramson,Soap: Making it, Enjoying it(1972)
25-27%, 26% average
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Lye Concentration
Lye Concentration
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Lye Concentration
What is the normal, correct, or standard lye concentration?
Ann Bramson,Soap: Making it, Enjoying it(1972)
25-27%, 26% average Susan Cavitch,The Soapmakers Companion(1997)
26-29%, 27% average
Robert McDaniel,Essentially Soap(2000)
33-38%, 34% average
Lye Concentration
Lye Concentration
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Lye Concentration
What is the normal, correct, or standard lye concentration?
Ann Bramson,Soap: Making it, Enjoying it(1972)
25-27%, 26% average Susan Cavitch,The Soapmakers Companion(1997)
26-29%, 27% average
Robert McDaniel,Essentially Soap(2000)
33-38%, 34% average
Anne Watson,Smart Soapmaking(2007)
30-37%, 33% average
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Temperature
Temperature
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Temperature
40C = 104F
60C = 140F
80C = 176F
Temperature
Temperature
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Temperature
40C = 104F (Cold)
60C = 140F (Warm)
80C = 176F (Hot)
Low-Water Soap, 80C, 200X
Low-Water Soap 200X
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Low-Water Soap, 200X
Low-Water Soap, 80C, 200X
Medium-Water Soap 200X
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Medium Water Soap, 200X
Low-Water Soap, 80C, 200X
High-Water Soap, 200X
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High Water Soap, 200X
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The Secret Life of Soap
The Secret Life of Soap
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The Secret Life of Soap
Do you peek at soap in the mold?
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Neat Soap?
Neat Soap?
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p
Neat soap is a lamellar lyotropic liquid crystalline phase of soapand water.
Neat Soap?
Neat Soap?
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p
Neat soap is a lamellar lyotropic liquid crystalline phase of soapand water.
Liquid crystalline: the molecules are free to move past one an-
other, as in a liquid; they are arranged in ordered patterns, as
in a solid crystal.
Neat Soap?
Neat Soap?
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p
Neat soap is a lamellar lyotropic liquid crystalline phase of soapand water.
Liquid crystalline: the molecules are free to move past one an-
other, as in a liquid; they are arranged in ordered patterns, as
in a solid crystal.
Lyotropic: the liquid crystal contains at least two kinds of
molecule and its properties depend on the concentrations.
Neat Soap?
Neat Soap?
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p
Neat soap is a lamellar lyotropic liquid crystalline phase of soapand water.
Liquid crystalline: the molecules are free to move past one an-
other, as in a liquid; they are arranged in ordered patterns, as
in a solid crystal.
Lyotropic: the liquid crystal contains at least two kinds of
molecule and its properties depend on the concentrations.
Lamellar: the two kinds of molecules are arranged in sheets.
Neat Soap?
Neat Soap?
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p
Neat soap is a lamellar lyotropic liquid crystalline phase of soapand water.
Liquid crystalline: the molecules are free to move past one an-
other, as in a liquid; they are arranged in ordered patterns, as
in a solid crystal.
Lyotropic: the liquid crystal contains at least two kinds of
molecule and its properties depend on the concentrations.
Lamellar: the two kinds of molecules are arranged in sheets. Neat soap is what handcrafted soapmakers know as gel phase
Neat Soap
Neat Soap
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p
Neat Soap
Neat Soap
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Neat Soap
Neat Soap
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Phase Diagrams
Delight Phases
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0
20
40
60
80
100
Aq288Aq144Aq0
40
80
120
160
200
100 200 300
Te
mperature(o
C)
Te
mperature(o
F)
Moisture Content (ppt)
curd (solid)
curd + neat
neat (gel)
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Soap Crystal Texture
Raw Soap Texture at 0 Minutes
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Soap Crystal Texture
Raw Soap Texture at 10 Minutes
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Soap Crystal Texture
Raw Soap Texture at 120 Minutes
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Soap Crystal Texture
Raw Soap Texture at 180 Minutes
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Soap Crystal Texture
Raw Soap Texture at 240 Minutes
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Soap Crystal Texture
Raw Soap Texture at 300 Minutes
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Soap Crystal Texture
Raw Soap Texture at 8 Hours
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Lessons
Gelling
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Soap can be made with lye between 25% and 50% NaOH
High-water soaps gel at lower temperatures
Mid-water soaps gel at higher temperatures
Low-water soaps do not gel
Lessons
Appearance
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Soap can be made with lye between 25% and 50% NaOH
Soap that gelled is translucent
Soap that did not gel is white and opaque
Scientific Soapmaking
Scientific Soapmaking
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Thanks to the HSMG for all the questions I could not have an-
swered 5 years ago.
Scientific Soapmaking
Scientific Soapmaking
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Thanks to the HSMG for all the questions I may be able to answer
5 years from now.
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