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oast Baluch and Pathan tribesmen cared

iittle about borders and international.onni.t. The lines drawn by Kabul and

Islamabad were meaningless to tribalsociety; travel and trade carried on

between the two country's hillmen as ifthe borders never existed. The threat otAfnhun encroachment on Pakistaniteriitorv was of little concern' Indeed,

*un, trib.trnen favored linking withAfslianistan under communist rule' Butnoi, communism had taken on a new

face - that of a Soviet-installed regime

hard aeainst the indigenous people'fhe influx of intensely anti-Soviet

refusees and the threat of militaryaesr;ssion is bound to change attitudesu6'ort th. future of Baluchistan' Impor-tantlv. however, it has not created a new

sinse of loyalty to Zia's Pakistan' At the

most one cbuld expect the refugees, withtheir tales of deith and glory in the

defense of traditional life, to fan theBaluchi desire for tribal sovereignty'The province's young intellectuals' how-ever. are reaching beyond that concept'Bv ioinins with ihe Sind-based Move-.,i"nt for tle Restoration of Democracy,thev have begun a broader struggle to

"r"it. a new Pakistan. It is clear that a

national movement is taking root inisolated, under-developed Baluchistan'

The following daY rePorts ln an

English-language paper show Zla on the

defEnsive. T-he Iront-page is devoted tothe General's address to Pakistan's

national writer's association. The speech

riveals once more the contradiction of a

harsh fundamentalist military regimetrvins to oass itself off as liberal andtoi.rint. Zia reaffirms his government'scommitment to freedom of expression

and note s that in six years no writer has

been'Jailed or denied pen and paper'"In the same breath he warns wrltersagainst "intellectual anarchy" and.in-vi"tet anyon. writing about non-Moslemideas to do so in another country' In alater report the public is assured thatrecent violence ii the work of a smallsrouo of soiietal misfits in Sind. Noirentjon is made of correspondingdem-onstrations in Pakistan's other prov-inces. Rumours that rail service has

ment which once served as an impromp-tu oodium. After dark one night a smallt u[ vocal sroup of protestors make theirwav dowi the maln street of the New

Tofrn. They disperse quickly before a

confrontation can occur.--- - F.u". still exists in some parts of

Pakistan. Hunza Valley, lost in the foldsof northern Pakistan's KarakorumMountains, provides us a dreamy-escapeio trr" puti.'A young man of the tinyvillase bf GaneJtr says. "Hunza is sepa-

.uti."nt for the militiry government, it's

of no concern to us." A frown comes tohis face. "Yet before the governmentpolice came there was no trouble, no

crime."During the Precarious jeeP ride

back to Gilfet, th6 area's major settle-

lieve. However, I was later to read areoort bv The Washington Posts Stuartlirerba6h that carried a similar story.

Auerbach reported that "some Pakistanijournalists b-elieve the religious sets maybe egged on . . . to embarrass the Ziasovernment."" Leaving Gilgit we encounter agroup of perhaps 200 protestors march-i-ne down the highwaY. TheY aPPear

iu6ilant and determined, not at all likeoeoole whose town has.iust been over-irn. Lut. that night, bedded down in-mytent bv the roadiide, I am awakened byitreir 6trants. It sounds as if the crowdhas grown." Where are theY going? PerhaPs

thev hope to reach Islamabad, the

nution't iapital' It's a two day journeyhv truck. vet bv marching on throughitie niehi ihe 6rotestors have alreadyoutpaiea us. i think of the. militarychei:kpoints ahead and wonder where

itr"r;ri be turned back - that they willirrir;ri be turned back - that they willi-;'" -^"" nr less a certaintv. Zia's forcesbe is more or less a certainty. Zia'sare strong and they are everywhere' .,

I reinember a man in Lahore tell-

been disrupted are denied.While Zia engages in the Public

same of downplaying dissent, the police[ave been mobilized to the fullest extentin all corners of Pakistan' In Peshawaqwhich we visit in the Northwest Front-ier orovince, the timeless trade in wea-nons and brass. spices and hash carriesbn. Ox carts stili lumber through the

"ro*ded streets of the Qissa Khawani

and old men gather at the tea stalls tosmoke their fiookahs and gossip' Yet

some things have changed.. The ChowkYad Gar, olnce a meeting place for polit-ical discussion, is silent and at least 20

armed police circle the central monu-

42 Canadiqn Forum MoY 1984

ment, I recall his words. It seems iPpgl-sible

'that' trouble should touch thisremote mountain wilderness. The scene

which sreets me at Gilget provides an

immediate reawakening. What was onlyhours before a peaceful, forgotten townslumbering in the golden autumn sun-iintt ir noiv a hiviof military activity'O"n the outskirts soldiers are posting a

frestrty-painted sign reading "MartialLavt 1one E.' Tear gas chokes the eve-

nrng air. Above the r6ar of military heli-cop-ters mY comPanions tell me the

ooiice movid in oh full-scale rioting'' The trouble began when a grouPof Shi'ite Moslems gathered in the street

for their second day of ritual self-flagel-iation. The Sunni Moslems, Pakistan'smajority sect, object strongly..to thispractice. The two groups hold differentinteroretations of the Qu'ran and resent-

meni hud been furthered by the fact thatthe minority group has far greater.eco-

nomic powei in- Pakistan's businessworld. Catcalls led to shoving. then rockthrowing. Suddenly there was the sound

of gunfiie. The government police had

arr-ived, both barrels blazing.Two fellow travellers fled down a

side street where they were given refuge

in a local merchant's home. The mer-chant offered them sweet tea and anexolanation for the riot. "The under-ivihs thine is it is really directed againstthe

"soveriment. By fighting with each

othe-r they know political instability-iscreated, which means trouble for the

regime.;' I find this motive hard to be-

lieve these words.Although dgmocracy has been

oromised bv I985, few people have con-tidence in the possibility. In the mean-

time. Pakistan-is faltering. The literacyrate,'for example, is falling.sharply as

the military goLbles up fun-ding: educa-

tion receives two per cent ol the natlonalbudset while miliiary expenditures have

risei to account for nearly 50 per cent'The sovernment has suggested relbrms,

everipromised elections, but the unrestcontinues.

ShortlY before I entered Pakistan,Maclean's cirried a report that outsideSind there was "indifference" toward the

,ou.rn.nt for democracy. It stated

"virtuallv no outbreaks ofviolence have

heen reobrted in Pakistan's three otherorovinc'es." By the time I arrived thatLi"tute was already altered. No matterivhere I travelled the spread of dissent

followed the same route, making itsell

visible even in Pakistan's remotestareas.

I was later to visit Sind, where

unrest exists on a far greater scale andwhere I was at times to lear lor my tlle'iit on a lonely mountain road far fromSind. lvine awake in my tent and listen-ine to fheiound of protest fading in the

Jiitur.., I see Pakisian's story changing

^"rhans irrst heginning, U

Tiish Elliou is a recent graduate of the(lniversity of Regina history depqr.t-

*rnt ord his spent the last yeor visit'ing Asia.

I